Suspension setups...shocks, overloads, ladder bars
- Thread starter mike diesel
- Start date
Mike, skip the Ranchos. They are a decent shock but will do nothing for controlling the front end rise.
You need something lighter.
You need something lighter.
Ranchos didn't help my truck one bit. Their not double adjustable so iirc you can only adjust the compression.
ranchos adjust both compression and rebound due to design but the rebound in them is setup very light. even on the max setting its no where near like a qa1/viking shock set to max on rebound.
Doubt I'll ever install coilover's, just want to get rid of the donkey dancing in the front end I get on the freeway around long curves with the Rancho's. The Viking double adjustable will work just a little concerned about the long term aspect, guess one would have to keep a rebuild kit on hand...
when used on a torsion bar setup, i would bet they last 40-50k on a street truck without issue. thats not to say you dont get a bad one and needs servicing sooner. also depends on how much you turn the valving up on them.
rebuild should be no more than a normal shock rebuild. i know a couple guys in town that can rebuild them. you will need some spanner wrenches, aluminum soft jaw vise, nitrogen tank/fill lines, and the required oil for them plus the seal kit. all need to do the nessacary inspections on parts like the body for score marks, bent/pitted or nicked shaft, or hurt valve stacks
i am curious the internal differences between viking and qa1. at some point i may take both apart and see where they cheap out.... if at all.
EDIT: in these trucks, the below is very likely to happen when you lock out compression or rebound with a heavy shim stack and certain style pistons. Something to look for when you rebuild shocks. ive had this happen in my early coil over valving setups. thats since been taken care of
notice the contoured bottom shim, no bueno
rebuild should be no more than a normal shock rebuild. i know a couple guys in town that can rebuild them. you will need some spanner wrenches, aluminum soft jaw vise, nitrogen tank/fill lines, and the required oil for them plus the seal kit. all need to do the nessacary inspections on parts like the body for score marks, bent/pitted or nicked shaft, or hurt valve stacks
i am curious the internal differences between viking and qa1. at some point i may take both apart and see where they cheap out.... if at all.
EDIT: in these trucks, the below is very likely to happen when you lock out compression or rebound with a heavy shim stack and certain style pistons. Something to look for when you rebuild shocks. ive had this happen in my early coil over valving setups. thats since been taken care of
notice the contoured bottom shim, no bueno
Last edited:
40-50k is not bad, thought it might be substantially less. I don't beat on the truck, it's a 2x4 so less weight in the front end than the 4x4 to control and if 40-50k is optimistic that's not bad. I could keep the Ranchos in a box on the shelf if and when one or both needs to be rebuilt.
Just quick question for the 4x4's, is the axle shaft considered sprung or unsprung weight.?
Just quick question for the 4x4's, is the axle shaft considered sprung or unsprung weight.?
50/50 just like the shock.
the weight of 4wd vs 2wd in the front wont make much difference on the shocks. brians old reg cab fully gutted was 3500lbs on the front axle. my truck fully loaded as i DD it is 4k on the front axle. your front end wont be under that 3500lbs mark at all.
Heavy wheels and tires, poor choice for tires, long bars, bilsteins, etc. If you were pulling, you'd be all set, but nothing in your setup is ideal for drag racing. Thats why your times arent what you were hoping for. The guys tried to tell you, but you wont listen.
Question: Back when we first were discussing using QA1s for racing purposes, how many times was it said that they werent ideal for DD use and they probably wouldn't last long/would need rebuilding more often? Same thing with coilovers. Anyone else remember that?
Id love to see a company make us a double adjustable shock set up for coilovers that could handle our truck's weights.
Last edited:
Lol what do you mean I won't listen? Just because I don't have thousands to go out and buy slicks on 16s with caltracs and coil overs doesn't mean I'm not listening? I'm obviously trying to learn, I know I need new wheels and tires. Was just trying to figure out if there was anything I could do without spending a shit ton to get it to hook better.
Front shocks are installed, rears accidentally never got ordered, but I ordered them yesterday. Cal tracs showed up yesterday and I have them mostly installed. Was up till 3am working on it. I had to remove both leafs completely to get those bushings out. I had to use the 100 ton press at my work, they were really in there good. Hopefully I like the look of the overloads being removed.
Luckily I was also able to save my u-bolts. The upper portion of threads had alot of corrosion built up in them. Took my wire wheel to them and then ran a 16x2.0 die down the threads and they cleaned right up.
Should have the truck up and going in a couple hours.
Luckily I was also able to save my u-bolts. The upper portion of threads had alot of corrosion built up in them. Took my wire wheel to them and then ran a 16x2.0 die down the threads and they cleaned right up.
Should have the truck up and going in a couple hours.
I almost pulled the trigger on cal tracs but after reading they cause rough ride or noisy depending on where they are set I decided on 72" bars. everything is ready but the 1053-1 convertor which is on its way. then I'll see what I can do at the trac soon I hope.
No preload on the caltracs and they don't affect much. Just some noise on bumpy roads but nothing too bad.
And yes it's much easier to just take out the whole leaf and do it on a bench. But I guess having bags and a lift makes them much easier to remove also.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
And yes it's much easier to just take out the whole leaf and do it on a bench. But I guess having bags and a lift makes them much easier to remove also.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
when "add bars" or "traction bars" they are nothing but an axle wrap bar. the term has been said wrong for many many years now. Not everyone notices the rougher ride and it also depends on your shock/spring setup. cal tracs can actually give a better ride cause you can control the actual preload the bars will give. if you had the preload set right for the street, you can still keep ride nice and axle wrap under control. adding more preload to cal tracs at the track helps keep the ass end from squatting as well