Suspension ideas...need input please
- Thread starter TheBac
- Start date
fabbing????????? that wood working my friend :rofl:
look like a good idea...only thing i would be worried about is it rolling on you.
look like a good idea...only thing i would be worried about is it rolling on you.
Picky picky. Ok, I changed the title. :rofl: Trust me, Im no woodworker, even though I keep trying. But its all I have to use.
What part rolling? The snubber/rod assembly? I set it up to be vertical to the pinion, like everyone recommended.
I can see if I use U-bolts, the stand may rotate under stress. But if the stand is welded to the crossmember, it would be pretty darn solid.
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pending on how thick you piece the snubber is attached to you "could" bend it
2 the torrsional rigidtiy of said crossmember.
the idea that i see is it shoving up and rollin forward over the top of the xmemeber.
i cant remember how rigid said piece is
2 the torrsional rigidtiy of said crossmember.
the idea that i see is it shoving up and rollin forward over the top of the xmemeber.
i cant remember how rigid said piece is
Bac
Sorry It took me so long to get into this thread. I really like the idea of Caltracs and airbags. I have used air bags with great results in both my car and truck. They are great and easy adjustment the track.
Sorry It took me so long to get into this thread. I really like the idea of Caltracs and airbags. I have used air bags with great results in both my car and truck. They are great and easy adjustment the track.
Yeah, we had discussed that before. There might be too much stress on it. If the snubber was mounted at more of an angle to the diff then bending would certainly be a possibility, as Mike stated. Rolling the stand on the crossmember is a concern, too. If this is a feasible design, I think I'll start by using the U-bolts, though. That way if it does twist, I have an out, but Im not marrying myself to the design by welding it. The only way to find out is to make one and test it.
I dont think the crossmember is going to be an issue. Its a 3" dia thickwall tube. I cant see the rotational force from the diff being great enough to bend that.
John, just trying something different. I can always go back to Caltracs.
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"Full stiff" is a subjective term Tom, not knowing what the valving is for those shocks.
Within the next month or so (man am I optimistic!), we're gonna play with some stuff on the shock dyno to try to get some more information on chassis tuning these things.
By the way, if you get a chance sometime, try to scale your truck in race setup. Get the front axle and rear axle weight.
looks good bac , i'm interested to see this baby in action , and i agree only way to see if it works is to build it and see , good luck , if it doesnt work out for ya the set up i just did i think is going cut some very good 60 times this coming spring traction is far better than it ever has been in 2wd . keep us posted 
Talked with my fabricator today. He looked over my model for a little while, asked me a couple questions, and came up with another idea.
He's going to use a piece of 3" ID double-strength pipe cut in half as the base. He'll weld two arms off 1/2 the base. These will be mated to a TBD-sized 4" long tube (think "triangle"). He'll use the threaded rod thru that tube as the snubber mount.
Here's the part that clues you to why Im not a fabricator, because I didnt think of it:
He's going to drill two holes thru the base pipe and the crossmember and use 1/2" grade 8 bolts's to pinch the base around the crossmember. Solves the mounting AND the rotating problems in one neat package.
So hopefully he'll have something for me to test fit in the next few days.
He's going to use a piece of 3" ID double-strength pipe cut in half as the base. He'll weld two arms off 1/2 the base. These will be mated to a TBD-sized 4" long tube (think "triangle"). He'll use the threaded rod thru that tube as the snubber mount.
Here's the part that clues you to why Im not a fabricator, because I didnt think of it:
He's going to drill two holes thru the base pipe and the crossmember and use 1/2" grade 8 bolts's to pinch the base around the crossmember. Solves the mounting AND the rotating problems in one neat package.
So hopefully he'll have something for me to test fit in the next few days.
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Shock dyno? Whats a shock dyno?
I wont be able to scale my truck in race trim until April at the earliest. I do have an old weight slip from last year that lists both axle weights, though. I could do an estimate of what my truck should weigh. Would that work?
looks good bac , i'm interested to see this baby in action , and i agree only way to see if it works is to build it and see , good luck , if it doesnt work out for ya the set up i just did i think is going cut some very good 60 times this coming spring traction is far better than it ever has been in 2wd . keep us posted
Thanks. I agree completely with the part in bold....if it doesnt work, Im just out whatever fabbing it up costed me. I can always fall back to Caltracs and spring pack mods.
sounds good bac i think you will have good results with the snubber ,the only thing i wonder is if it will still work if the rear end of the the truck rises under power instead of squating , if it works out, you might even be able to make a buck or two
Machine used to measure the actual dampening force of a shock at various shock travel speeds (ie, 3 inches per second, 6 inches per second, etc..) Once these numbers are known, it's easier to compare apples to apples when tuning your chassis. Actual compression and rebound values can help you quantify what works and what doesn't
Whilst looking thru the "'Black trucks" thread, I found this pic of fastgreek at the track:
Gives a very good indication of what the suspension is doing at the start.
Anyone else have pics of their trucks leaving the starting line?
BTW, just waiting on the snubber to be built. My fabricator was waiting on 3" ID DOM tube so he could start building it. I'll check with him this week.
Gives a very good indication of what the suspension is doing at the start.
Anyone else have pics of their trucks leaving the starting line?
BTW, just waiting on the snubber to be built. My fabricator was waiting on 3" ID DOM tube so he could start building it. I'll check with him this week.
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the only breaker is that is not a desired reaction for a 4wd launch , i have read a few engineering articals and they say when the rear is idealy set up it should actually raise the rear of the truck from the axel being pushed into the ground , you want weight to stay on the front of the truck your front tires will always have better traction then the rear which is why sled pullers weight on the front of they're rigs . 2wd rigs are oposite rear weight transfer equals traction . before the caltracs my truck squated at the track also from watching vids of my runs we will see what the caltracs change along with what i have planned in the front . i would be curious what others say i have only read up on it not enough practical experience , i will be interested to see some testing on the snubber .
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I'll have to see if I can get a hold of the video of one of my passes from my buddy. I was told that my truck from that picture does the same thing as far as the front hiking up and the back squats. Which I'm sure is why I can't leave hard as the drive tires don't stay planted and causes me to break traction. Can't wait to see your snubber when it's done.