If you can't fix it with a hammer. you have an electrical problem.
Guess so:spit::spit::rofl::rofl:
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showpost.php?p=256298&postcount=12
SIKDMAX LMM painfully slow Install/Build Thread
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Guess so:spit::spit::rofl::rofl:
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showpost.php?p=256298&postcount=12
I tried this before, it didn't work very well
But I bet it made you feel better.
But I bet it made you feel better.
It did....untill I saw the damage I had done and realized there was no wiring in the part
:spit:
so hows it doin matt? get the rad hose leak fixed? driving it around doing burnouts everywhere??
Coolant leaks fine, injector leak was fine. Im almost positive I have a bad WD FPR in the valley. Going to talk to Dan more about it Saturday. Im in LA til Sunday night so next week I will fix it.
I just got back from being out of town from Wed - Mon morning. Now Im exahusted. Guy your oiler is going out today, I feel like a DUR DU DURRRR that I didnt get it out before I left.
Picked up a set of new wheels yesterday (actually 2 sets) for my slicks.
I have another set of these availible if interested, new in box. 18x9 Eagle whatevers (114 I think? Forget) good backspacing to suck em in. Should look great on there. $600 + ship on the 2nd set if anyones interested.
I dont know when Im going to have time to fix my truck. I sit in it and start it hoping for not max rail, but it does it so i just sit in it and listen to the radio for a few minutes LOL.
I need to get a new FPR coming to test the 2nd CP3 pump, and then try a new controller. If both of those are ok, then its the valley FPR. Should be the specs posted in the spec area for when Paint had to do this I would guess.
Picked up a set of new wheels yesterday (actually 2 sets) for my slicks.
I have another set of these availible if interested, new in box. 18x9 Eagle whatevers (114 I think? Forget) good backspacing to suck em in. Should look great on there. $600 + ship on the 2nd set if anyones interested.
I dont know when Im going to have time to fix my truck. I sit in it and start it hoping for not max rail, but it does it so i just sit in it and listen to the radio for a few minutes LOL.
I need to get a new FPR coming to test the 2nd CP3 pump, and then try a new controller. If both of those are ok, then its the valley FPR. Should be the specs posted in the spec area for when Paint had to do this I would guess.
2 hours is all you really think it would take to change the valley FPR on a LMM? If thats the case Ill get in there soon.... otherwise I figured its like gonna be a 10+ hour job easy if Im going to have to remove as much as I think I do.
I forget who I told but my offer stands of $500 cash to someone to come swap it lol :spit:
I forget who I told but my offer stands of $500 cash to someone to come swap it lol :spit:
I know but it could be fixed before the day was over , just need to roll the sleaves up and get to work ! I have 2 motors sitting on the ground and built a trans in the time its taken to fix a sticky regulator . Sorry Matt but got to give you some tough love ! GET TO WORK :rofl:
Matt, i'd pull the y-bridge out that way you insure you won't strip those stupid t-25 bolts... otherwise you'll have to do what I did, pull the CP3. Getting to the CP3 isn't that bad.
In those last 6 days since it was found out there was a problem I made enough $$ to pay for half of my motor build. Its been 10 months, I dont give a shit about another few weeks anymore.
Matt, call ofi and get a regulator coming. Try the 2nd cp3 regulator first. that takes, oh....10 minutes to swap lol, and rule it out. Also Try another dual cp3 controller if you can get one. that takes oh, maybe 10 minutes too lol. After you rule those two out, then worry about the valley regulator, which will take about 1/2 a day to swap out.
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