Running a single battery

[coker6303]

LMM, I ran the stock single for about 8months(daily driver) before it started failing to click the truck off. I also had a problem with the heater controls resetting every morning to 74degrees with the a/c on and they just never worked right. I purchased a odyssey pc1500 that has solved my heater control glitch and lights the truck off pretty quick. It's spendy $300 but has a full replacement 4 year warranty and well built.

These were some of the symptoms I just had from a loose neg battery connection on my single battery lmm. weird codes and it had a mind of it's own! All good now.

I have the remote mount battery tray (thanks to josh) and cable here, just need to put it all on!

 

[baggedLB7]

The more cable you run the more voltage drop you will have that being said i dont think your running long enough to worry about it.John is running 1 1800 cca battery in the way back of the truck and doesnt seam to have any probelms altho he doesnt drive it much.

More or less just wondering if having two differnt sized bats is going to screw anything up were they are tied together.
Between the glow plugs, heater grid, airdog, and my air pump for my bags I think its just to much in the winter. So I would like to keep the one on the drivers side under the hood but you can only fit so big of a bat. So I was thinking if I can get away with it I would put a bigger bat in a nice sealed box back on the frame were it kicks up to go over the rear axle so I can hide it a little easier.

Even in the summer after a couple days it wont start? Winter I can see that but summer?

No just in the winter. I have not had any problems in the summer yet.

 

[jmaz268]

More or less just wondering if having two differnt sized bats is going to screw anything up were they are tied together.
Between the glow plugs, heater grid, airdog, and my air pump for my bags I think its just to much in the winter. So I would like to keep the one on the drivers side under the hood but you can only fit so big of a bat. So I was thinking if I can get away with it I would put a bigger bat in a nice sealed box back on the frame were it kicks up to go over the rear axle so I can hide it a little easier.


No just in the winter. I have not had any problems in the summer yet.

I would not use 2 different sized batteries, I wouldn't even use 2 different branded batteries of the the same rating.

 

[duratothemax]

I would not use 2 different sized batteries, I wouldn't even use 2 different branded batteries of the the same rating.

x2. I mixed an old OEM AC Delco battery with a bigger newer Advance Auto platinum battery and they were both trashed in less than 2 years.

 

[MACKIN]

Makes sence baggedlb7 I thought so!

 

[Kappa9012]

you i don't know what it is about mis matched sized batteries but everywhere I look people say to not run different cca batteries. I wouldn't think brand would matter, but....

I ran 1/0 gauge back to my second battery in the bed, and now that I got my issues figured out I have a few tenths of a volt drop but it starts/charges fine. Fyi I took the rear battery directly to the starter so I'd have less starting issues.

and I also has the a/c controls acting up when I only had a single battery. I could always tell when she struggled to start because my AC would go to 74 degrees at key on. I don't have those issues any more.

 

[LBZ]

Not to get OT but I started running a single bat in Sept 2011 and it worked well until half way through the first winter and it took a sht it was old though. So I bought an interstate which worked well through the rest of the winter and all summer and about half of this winter and now if the truck sits more than a couple of days it will not start unless I leave a bat tender on it.
So I am looking at another bat on the frame and was wondering how big of a bat can I run for the secound one? My stereo buddy told me I can go a little bigger were I will be extending the cables but not much is this true or do I need to go with the same size?

Going bigger halfway down the line won't help you. Your still limited by the smaller gauge wire as to current capacity and voltage drop. There is a measured drop over a certain length of cable that can't be helped. Only way to raise the current capacity is to go with a thicker gauge over the entire run of the cable with as few of connections as possible.

All things being equal, different brands shouldn't matter. CCA is a rating that is the same across the board. That said, it's only as accurate as the quality of the battery. After a year the CCA rating may have dropped on one batt more than the other due to a poorer construction, cheaper materials, etc. And that's when things go sideways. Just like putting an old shitty battery in with a new one will wreck the new one in no time.

Best bet is to replace both at the same time from the same make to give yourself a better chance of having two batteries that should get worn and last the same amount.

 

[Janimal444]

I currently run one battery. Only time I had an issue with starting was after injectors and had to crank engine for 30 seconds, bleed fuel system, then repeat. That being said, I would like to mount my second battery, but I really don't like the location that most mount with the twin turbo kits, on the passenger side frame. I don't want to mount the battery in a location that will be constantly caked with salt during the winter months (probably the only months that would actually need the second battery). Has anyone mounted a second battery elsewhere, maybe in the bed? Pictures would be helpful too:thumb:

 

[Kappa9012]

Mines in the bed passenger side turned sideways behind the fender well... I just got a cheap $15 dollar marine battery box and ran wires straight down through the bed floor.

There's also a national standard on resistance/foot for a given wire awg.

 

[Harbin_22]

I currently run one battery. Only time I had an issue with starting was after injectors and had to crank engine for 30 seconds, bleed fuel system, then repeat. That being said, I would like to mount my second battery, but I really don't like the location that most mount with the twin turbo kits, on the passenger side frame. I don't want to mount the battery in a location that will be constantly caked with salt during the winter months (probably the only months that would actually need the second battery). Has anyone mounted a second battery elsewhere, maybe in the bed? Pictures would be helpful too:thumb:

http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39789&highlight=battery+relocation

 

[dracing70]

Is the stock wire gauge size.

 

[dracing70]

Well I decided to stick with two batteries. Here r some pics of my mount.

 

[dracing70]

The best part about mounting it here is its inside the frame rail and protected and u can retain the stock cables by unbolt ing the neg. cable and putting it on the driver side of the engine. And the pos. will reach from were it is. I just recommend having a driveshaft hoop in case it comes down. U don't want it hitting the battery.

 

[Kappa9012]

the trucks must be wired very differently. my pass side pos cable will not reach down very far at all.

 

[blk smoke lb7]

the trucks must be wired very differently. my pass side pos cable will not reach down very far at all.

I dont know why not,mine seams to have went pretty far towards the back.I want to say from where the frame is boxed as it comes bown i made it 8 to 10 inches past where the frame opens up and starts running towards the trans mount.

 

[dracing70]

the trucks must be wired very differently. my pass side pos cable will not reach down very far at all.

U have to really get in there and reroute it. I removed all of the factory clips including the black plastic mount that holds the tranny lines. That will free up About 12 inches. Then the pos. cable is directly hooked to the starter I was able to go under the oil pan over the front diff. Then all the way back on driver side next to the front driveshaft. The pos cable is about 5-6 ft long I believe. Like I said u need to really get in there cause the pos. is routed funny on the pass. Side.

 

[duratothemax]

View attachment 26627

The best part about mounting it here is its inside the frame rail and protected and u can retain the stock cables by unbolt ing the neg. cable and putting it on the driver side of the engine. And the pos. will reach from were it is. I just recommend having a driveshaft hoop in case it comes down. U don't want it hitting the battery.

So is that your driver side battery relocated? Or???

Mine is on the passenger side outside the frame rail. I really like how yours is mounted inside the frame protected, but on my truck the ABS pre-charge pump would be in the way.

ben

 

[Kappa9012]

my pos term on the pass side has a jumper from the battery terminal that runs up behind the fuel filter and supplies power to a large fuse panel. That short jumper is what limits my ability to reroute the power cable.

 

[dracing70]

So is that your driver side battery relocated? Or???

Mine is on the passenger side outside the frame rail. I really like how yours is mounted inside the frame protected, but on my truck the ABS pre-charge pump would be in the way.

ben

No that is the pass side relocated. I can't mount it further back cause my lift pumps are there. So this spot was perfect. And like I said u can reutilize the pass cables also

 

[dracing70]

my pos term on the pass side has a jumper from the battery terminal that runs up behind the fuel filter and supplies power to a large fuse panel. That short jumper is what limits my ability to reroute the power cable.

Yeah I'm not sure on the new body trucks. But it would not take much to extend the jumper wire.