I was thinking IAT multiplyiers too. It seems like if IAT gets hot enough it could increase the burn rate so you get more pressure BTDC.
Riddle me this...
- Thread starter TheBac
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I didnt want to respond earlier in this thread Tom because I didnt want to jinx it.......but my original motor did this same thing (the random surge at idle, sometimes runs fine, sometimes theres a strong smell of diesel in the exhaust, other times the exhaust smells fine, no rhyme or reason?? odd) a month or two before it let go (cracked 5 pistons). I dont remember if the rods were shortened or not. I think they might have been a little short??? Ill have to check.
7 or 8 are usually the first rods to go on dmax's, it seems like yours is following the trend. I dont know why? Maybe Eric does?
a "good" LB7/LLY should have ~400+psi or so cold.
ben
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On the plus side, non of the glow plugs broke
Tom is weighing his options, I'm pushing for a stroker
Tom is weighing his options, I'm pushing for a stroker
mulitpliers dont do much of anything between 160-230* ECT unless altered from the factory.
extream high fuel temp air temp, cold ECT usually mulitpliers pull fuel/timing not add
On my stock LLY tune IAT multipliers only added timing at cold IATs but did not change timing at higher temps. But I don't know about the LB7s?
I think the LBZ+ revised all this with timing being pulled according to air temp but I don't know if the tables are avalible with efilive.
I think the LBZ+ revised all this with timing being pulled according to air temp but I don't know if the tables are avalible with efilive.
Yep...I won that bet. :rofl: Thanks again for everything...but you know a stroker motor is not in my plans.
Thanks for the ideas guys. We all know how it goes when it comes to running on borrowed time ... but it'll end up alright.
My initial plan is to rebuild with LBZ rods, but its just a matter of just how far to go past that since we're already in there. It adds up pretty quick.
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Won't you need an LBZ crank also to use the LBZ rods? Along with balancer and flywheel. I'm not positive but I thought I heard you cant use the LBZ rods on an LB7 crank.
that would be LBZ piston on a LB7 crank..
LBZ crank has a smaller over all diameter then then LB7 crank.
Vaz, I dont think he means a timed 1/4...:rofl:
We could just map out a country road and have at it. :rofl:
We could just map out a country road and have at it. :rofl:
The LBZ rotating parts will all interchange with LB7 rotating parts. The issue runs into balancing. Keep the balancer and flywheel matched to the crank. LBZ crank, use LBZ balancer and flywheel.
Rods and pistons wont matter each way
Rods and pistons wont matter each way
Tom will now start taking donations for a block, and any other parts that may not agree with his "going out" party:rofl:
Rods
I have a set of low miles (10k) rods from my original motor and damper. I will sell cheap. I check the rods before I took the motor apart and they all were.014 to .015 out of the hole. Jeff
I have a set of low miles (10k) rods from my original motor and damper. I will sell cheap. I check the rods before I took the motor apart and they all were.014 to .015 out of the hole. Jeff
You know Im not that crazy....but if I had unlimited funds to rebuild, it would be interesting and fun to do. Give me a bit, Im working on buying parts.
Jeff, pm sent.