I thought the testing was done?
Race /DD yes , towing is something i want to test , not to try to better it just to make shure i can still do it .
Racing Thermostats:
- Thread starter McRat
- Start date
Race /DD yes , towing is something i want to test , not to try to better it just to make shure i can still do it .
I wasnt picking at anything. All I was stating was that, for the people who inquired about daily driving, that its a possibility it wouldn't work as described in that situation. Sometimes people don't have experience with the way cooling systems react to things. Thought I would be able to share something I've learned about it.
So is this 2 thermostats you replace? Are they both the same T-stat in both locations or does one have to go on one specific side and the same for other? Im interested. I Daily driver, race some and tow some too so if they work out for you Ill be buying them.. I hate seeing how high the temp gauge usually rides..
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I look forward to your results Trent.
The fan at Highway speeds coming on unloaded is unacceptable and from my scan gauge I think it has a lot to do with when the thremostats open.
The fan at Highway speeds coming on unloaded is unacceptable and from my scan gauge I think it has a lot to do with when the thremostats open.
Yes there are 2, once you remove them you will see how they are different and can't be put in, incorrectly
x2 I completely agree. Im worried everyone is going to see this and think "oh duh! make the engine run cooler cause the stat opens sooner right??!??" and then run out and start replacing their t-stats.
I think people who are rushing out to swap theirs for a lower temp one (oh because all the gasser guys do it right?) should completely learn how the cooling system and thermostats work FIRST.
I even had one [stupid] friend who had an older truck that kept overheating. So what did he do to 'stop' it from overheating? Removed the t-stat completely. Well more flow = cooler water temps!!!
Also, the ECM doesnt transition to full """closed loop""" (I know theres no open/closed loop, but you know what I mean) until 162*.
ben
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The reason removing the thermostat completely causes issues is that you do not hold pressure in the block. If you do that, you need to run a restrictor plug on the block outlet. No pressure in the block will have hot spots that boil the water, which is no good.
I will repeat again, this is not intended for street use, or to fix overheaters. This is intended for racing purposes. This is a performance board.
Not that it is directly related, but replacing the thermostat on our LS1 Camaro and LS6 Corvette increased HP and dropped ET's. This doesn't mean that it will increase HP on a Dmax, but it didn't blow them up either or cause overheating, etc. If anything, the A/C worked better in traffic, and hot-lapping them had zero effect on ET's.
As far as <162 deg killing HP? I have never seen that so far. As long as the engine wasn't totally cold, full power was there. You don't always get to pick your water temp when you are called up to lanes.
I will repeat again, this is not intended for street use, or to fix overheaters. This is intended for racing purposes. This is a performance board.
Not that it is directly related, but replacing the thermostat on our LS1 Camaro and LS6 Corvette increased HP and dropped ET's. This doesn't mean that it will increase HP on a Dmax, but it didn't blow them up either or cause overheating, etc. If anything, the A/C worked better in traffic, and hot-lapping them had zero effect on ET's.
As far as <162 deg killing HP? I have never seen that so far. As long as the engine wasn't totally cold, full power was there. You don't always get to pick your water temp when you are called up to lanes.
Its a disclaimer statement...Pats been doing race-only testing of the t-stats. Follow Trent for how they might affect a street going vehicle at this time.
I am interested in seeing how Trent's truck fair's.
On the other side of the table, I wonder if there might be an issue maintaining coolant temp in the engine during the cold winter months up here?:canada::cold:
My truck has trouble maintaining heat at the best of times at 0*F nevermind -25*F!!
I replaced my t stats when I just rebuilt my turbo and our heavy duty diesel mechanic suggested going to 195 t stats if I could as he said a hotter engine gives a more complete burn therefore more power. He said on the older CAT and Cummins they used to put in hotter t stats and it got them more power. He said a diesel running 200-210 is just perfect. Any thoughts on this?
this is what i learned also in school- in terms of economy, power, efficiency
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=29018
Have you guys ever seen these?...Ever used them?...
What you're referring to is using too large of a restrictor plate or not using one at all...That doesn't let the radiator, pump, fan do their job...It's NOT the same as lowering the temp of when the process starts...BTW, we don't have Scirocco radiators in our trucks...
We've all read the posts, this testing doesn't have enough data...If it doesn't work, let's slap another mini radiator in there...Oops, sorry Brandon, I meant an oil cooler
That is it excactly , I didnt buy these for street use , I bought them for racing , but want to see what the side affects are if any , People need to remember That i have been beating the snot out of my truck this last week trying to get it to leak , or pressurize my cooling system again to see whether it is truely fixed , it seems to be holding so far , In my EFI logs the temp doesnt vary but 1-2 deg regaurdless of how hard i am beating on it . People also need to remember , I know how a cooling system works , I was a mech for 9 years and upon leaving the job i left being the lead tech with 8 guys under me . I understand the concerns but people need to pay close attention to what these are being sold as ...........................racing thermostats .
tell me this , If you make a run down the strip and the engine is below what the thermostats open at ( which mine usualy is because heat soak has cost me several 10ths before ) and take into acount that they open slowly as Pat found in his initial testing , then it is highly likely that you just made a pass down the strip with very minimal coolant flowing through the block . that is not what i want for my motor , maybe i am wrong in my thinking .
If every one is correct then none of you should be worried , I will overheat towing my trailor , or driving around town, and you will be proven correct and it will bring us back to the point of these still being " racing thermostats"
, I am simply trying to see what there other uses could be so myself and guys buying them will know what the limitations will be if any.
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I'm interested in something like this for the Texas heat and city driving. My temps climb pretty fast in rush hour traffic and racing
Dix
That is not what they are marketing them as a fix for but .......................... you could always try it
, for 60 bucks you arent put much if it doesnt work . It might work but the middle ground between all these theroys will be made depending on how up to task the radiator is and how fast it can disapate heat . the other theroy's are asuming it isnt up to the more frequent t stat openings , i say quit guesing and keyboard engineering and test it ...................
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