LMM: Questions on motor removal

[SIKDMAX]

Gonna start this thread as a reference for others who are pulling their motor and come upon a roadblock. Here... Ill start

LMM: Does a fender have to come off to remove the core support?

How do you get the fan off the front of the motor?

 

[motohed]

not 100% sure, but i think i remember reading in slowlmms thread that they pulled the fender. then both just to make things easier

 

[SIKDMAX]

I really see no other way around it.... each fender has a flange on it so it cant come forward, and cant go up due to the fender overhand. OK Pass fender comin off!

Pass side:

Driver side:

 

[SIKDMAX]

For the fan it looks like I need to keep the pulley from spinning somehow, then undo the 48mm nut. I doubt Sears or the like is gonna have a wrench that size - any ideas?

Craftsman.com sells a KD Tools 48mm Diesel Fan Clutch wrench....

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00994231000P

 

[MAXLLY]

I can have input here... Finally i can contribute some meaningful crap.

LEave the fenders on, IMO, follow the top of the fender back up to the firwall 2 bolts lossen them and it will allow the core to slip out.

IMO- the easaiste all around way to jerk the motor and work on the trans is to simply jack the hole truck up on a lift and let it roll.

Use a dull chisel and a glancing blow to break the fan loose, IIRC it has ass backwards threads.

 

[MAXLLY]

If you don't have enough room by spreading the fenders to get the core out... remove the bolts attaching it to frame rails and push the bottom towards to motor and pull the top towards you (front bumper).

When you loosen the fenders (NOT TO MUCH) they'll pinch the paint at the bottom of the door. If you pull the drives fender you gotta deal with ALL the harness/power/lines/TCM/ECM potential ghost in the machine/connection type stuff. IMO.

Watch out for the little plastic retainers and hard lines into the windshield washer tank they are brittle usually.
The little "t" shaped clips at the injector returns are brittle as well and GM won't sell you just one... 4 T's and the lines are over $60.
Shoot a 36" + extension through and past the starter to get the flex bolts, get on your knees with a flashlight you'll see a straight shot portal.

 

[SIKDMAX]

LOL James dont kid yourself.... I consider you one of the greats of this site with your knowledge! Just cant wait until your truck is out at the strip!! :hug:

Thanks for the tip on the fender.... well see if that works.

 

[MAXLLY]

LOL James dont kid yourself.... I consider you one of the greats of this site with your knowledge! Just cant wait until your truck is out at the strip!! :hug:

Thanks for the tip on the fender.... well see if that works.

Thanks Dude, means alot to help out fellow SALAD.

When you go hunting for a way to get the bellhousing bolts out..... get 2 LONG extensions and shoot over the top of the transfer case with a flashlight. knuckles will love you for it. Bend the trans/t case rubber vent hose clamp over to the left a little for the top bolt. Deep well knuckle....

 

[NelsonDiesel]

fenders are held on with just a couple bolts. I'd say pull the pass side but leave the driver side intact. Thats how i did the most recent one.

 

[NelsonDiesel]

you will need to lift the cab up as well in order to get her out without barking things up. I used a floor jack and a 4x4. Unbolted all body bolts and lifted from the passenger side just behind the front wheel. In doing this you will also free up a ton of room for the bellhousing bolts.

 

[SIKDMAX]

Thanks Greg. No issue with any cab wiring?

 

[NelsonDiesel]

Thanks Greg. No issue with any cab wiring?

no sir, just lift from the pass side and watch the driver side p-brake cable.

 

[NelsonDiesel]

you will only be doing about an inch or 2 of lift

this will also help with the downpipe removal.

 

[SIKDMAX]

Downpipe cant stay on until the motors out of the truck?

 

[NelsonDiesel]

Downpipe cant stay on until the motors out of the truck?

you know what now that i think about it.... i dunno why i pulled it. But i did. guess that comes down to what you feel needs to come off at that time.

 

[SIKDMAX]

Wonder how much it would cost to get you up here to finish pulling this thing.....

 

[NelsonDiesel]

ha ha, it's a pain, but it's really not that bad once you really lok at what went on.

You will do fine.

180 mile drive,

I was considering coming down saturday but 180 miles

 

[codyn]

you will need to lift the cab up as well in order to get her out without barking things up. I used a floor jack and a 4x4. Unbolted all body bolts and lifted from the passenger side just behind the front wheel. In doing this you will also free up a ton of room for the bellhousing bolts.

i removed my motor with everything bolted in and in place. makes it easier to pull out the core support. this time around i left the core support in and it came out just had to watch everything.

 

[NelsonDiesel]

i removed my motor with everything bolted in and in place. makes it easier to pull out the core support. this time around i left the core support in and it came out just had to watch everything.

NBS has the engine sunk under the firewall making it a lot more snug. Can't lift the engine high enough to clear the lower pan, you hit the firewall.

 

[codyn]

NBS has the engine sunk under the firewall making it a lot more snug. Can't lift the engine high enough to clear the lower pan, you hit the firewall.

im sorry forgot it was a lmm sorry about that