QA1 shocks
- Thread starter TrentNell
- Start date
I ran double adjustables all the way around on White Out, I think you have to play with them during a test and tune session, every truck is different. You need to adjust for engine torque/twist and slowing down the tendency to get too much weight transfer by unloading the frontend too much. Watch your 60' that is where it makes the most difference.
Ken I saw your post a few pages back and will loosely use that as a starting point at the track. I am more concerned with a base line for the street right now. I just want a basic setting to start my test drive.
put all your setting at the middle of the adjustment. so if there is 20 clicks from hard to soft, start at 10. that goes for both rebound and compression as well as the single adjustment in the rear.
"hard" or higher number rebound means the shock will extend slower, soft is opposite. same with compression. You may know that but i know alot of people that confuse what they are saying for rebound and what its actually doing.
the difference of that rebound adjustment at the track can make launches substantially better from what ive seen and found
Well maybe some guys want that! Lmao, it was more of just a "start in the middle and adjust from there". I have no clue how many clicks the qa1s have in them
I swap in QA1 double adj on all four corners for the track (I don't run them on the street).
I've had the most consistent 60ft times running the max setting on Rebound and staggering compression with more on the driver's side to account for my weight and the weight of the fuel tank. The front end stays planted really well.
This was with M&H Cheater slicks and front spring clamps. With radials and stiffer sidewalls I imagine you would need to dial in a bit more cushion with the shocks.
I've had the most consistent 60ft times running the max setting on Rebound and staggering compression with more on the driver's side to account for my weight and the weight of the fuel tank. The front end stays planted really well.
This was with M&H Cheater slicks and front spring clamps. With radials and stiffer sidewalls I imagine you would need to dial in a bit more cushion with the shocks.
I am under my truck right now and even with the proper bushings from QA1 The shock bracket seems significantly wider than the actual shock itself leaving side to side play. Did I get the wrong bushings or do I just need to tighten them down until the shock Brackets bend in?
I used some bushings out of a set of 1500 shocks. Worked perfectly, but yeah you need to space them out right so you don't pull the brackets in to it. Throw some washers in there lol. Pics would be nice too, to see how bad it is.
I have to go to hockey so I put the fox shocks back in haha. My biggest concerns is that the body of the shock is rubbing on the bracket. The fox shocks have about half an inch of clearance but the distant from the bushing hole to the shock body seems to be shorter on the qa1 coursing the corners of the body to rub the bracket.
the way it is hitting I don;t think a simple bend will work. I wish I could get a better picture but it seems like the bracket will need to be cut and modified.
You only need a couple washers to take up the space on each side and the bracket clears no problem.
Spread the bracket just alittle and slide a couple of washers in on each side. Thats all I did for mine and they didn't rub.
I run mine inverted, I haven't clarified with qa1 yet whether they recommend it or not yet as I just put them on but I haven't had issues yet. Their website says it's alright to invert the circle track ones but I'm not positive about the street series. I had to grind a little bit off the top shock mounts but not much.