Purchased RDL headers and up-pipes today
- Thread starter NWTDIESEL
- Start date
From what I understand Rick makes and sells the tube headers by himself and he and TxC designed these together, Rick makes them and you are supposed to only be able to get them through TxC.
If they gave me a decent price on them i would be happy to test them out with my Cheetah and cover the cost of before and after dyno runs - but TxC hasn't PMed me back about it. Before I spend that kind of money I want to let some people get some miles on their trucks on hot tunes to be sure they don't crack. 70,000 combined accumulated miles doesn't tell me much when I don't know how many sets there are out there right now - I want to see 30,000+ miles on one set with no problems on some hot tuning.
If they gave me a decent price on them i would be happy to test them out with my Cheetah and cover the cost of before and after dyno runs - but TxC hasn't PMed me back about it. Before I spend that kind of money I want to let some people get some miles on their trucks on hot tunes to be sure they don't crack. 70,000 combined accumulated miles doesn't tell me much when I don't know how many sets there are out there right now - I want to see 30,000+ miles on one set with no problems on some hot tuning.
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I guess I thought they weren't working on them together from this post: http://208.109.104.11/forum/showthread.php?p=82921#post82921
Rick does build them and yes i purchased them from TXchris. That dyno sheet was on a bone stock truck so hopefully it will be a lil bit more with my 64 71 14 turbo and added fuel
Tony gave me. ?????? I am getting in touch with the wrighter who did my DP mag article to see if he wants to do a wright up on the install/ dyno runs. We would do 2 stock header pulls on the dyno then go to a shop and switch the headers and up-pipes out then drive back and do two dyno pulls again. I copied and pasted everything below from another member.........
Well, as far as tuning and power, I'm basicaly stock. My truck needs to be very reliable for towing purposes and since I work on vehicles for a living, I realy don't feel like working on my own truck when the day is over.
Just 'seat of pants' performance gains with just the up pipes were increadible. Low end comes on strong, with much less pedal. Spool up is quick and lag is minimal at any given time. You'll be able to see the difference just by compareing the stockers to the new ones, much less restrictive. Less restriction = gasses getting to the turbo faster
Now for real numbers. Here's how it went down on the dyno:
hp/torque
.............. 2250rpm - 2750 - Peak
My stock- 108/258 - 220/420 - 231.7/420.5
Up Pipes - 156/366 - 228/435 - 237.1/434.9
I gained ~5hp and ~14lb.ft. torque at peak, but the low end where I tow and the truck gets it's daily use I've gained ~48hp and ~108 lb.ft. torque This is all without any extra tuning or jacking with anything else. This is just the up pipe installation only.
Tony gave me. ?????? I am getting in touch with the wrighter who did my DP mag article to see if he wants to do a wright up on the install/ dyno runs. We would do 2 stock header pulls on the dyno then go to a shop and switch the headers and up-pipes out then drive back and do two dyno pulls again. I copied and pasted everything below from another member.........Well, as far as tuning and power, I'm basicaly stock. My truck needs to be very reliable for towing purposes and since I work on vehicles for a living, I realy don't feel like working on my own truck when the day is over.
Just 'seat of pants' performance gains with just the up pipes were increadible. Low end comes on strong, with much less pedal. Spool up is quick and lag is minimal at any given time. You'll be able to see the difference just by compareing the stockers to the new ones, much less restrictive. Less restriction = gasses getting to the turbo faster
Now for real numbers. Here's how it went down on the dyno:
hp/torque
.............. 2250rpm - 2750 - Peak
My stock- 108/258 - 220/420 - 231.7/420.5
Up Pipes - 156/366 - 228/435 - 237.1/434.9
I gained ~5hp and ~14lb.ft. torque at peak, but the low end where I tow and the truck gets it's daily use I've gained ~48hp and ~108 lb.ft. torque This is all without any extra tuning or jacking with anything else. This is just the up pipe installation only.
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For those concerned about breaking/cracking...I was at one of the dyno runs where they ran the truck at 90% load I believe for an extrended period of time (1 minute I believe) at full throttle to see peak EGT's. These things were glowing red for a while. They still have not caused any problems of warping or cracking. Not to say it isn't possible. You can break anything if you try hard enough, but it sure looks like these hold up to high heat and beating pretty well.
I've been looking for headers for over 2 years. I started to get custom ones made about 28 months ago? I was told by two different shops not to bother with it, since they would be selling headers very shortly. One was RDL, the other I won't name, but it wasn't TurboBuick.
So now I will go and get custom ones made like I should have 2 years ago.
So now I will go and get custom ones made like I should have 2 years ago.
That is not what cuases cracking, heat cycles and fatuge is the main source of header cracks. A dyno pull means nothing....the only test that works is time....put 30,000-40,000 miles on them and then say they wont crack.....but eventually they will, anything will with enough time.
even the cast ones from the factory crack wether you talking about gas or diesel i've seen both crack over time .
This is true, but if designed right they will last MUCH longer. I'm not saying either way with these but they need some serious miles on them befor it can be said that they shouldnt crack. Design and material selection car buy a lot of time befor fatuge sets in.
LOL just saw the pictures on the DP of the up pipes, they are the same "bellow" type that Rick sent to Pat they move like you were shaking a slinky.
I have no idea what was done before, I was not involved in any of that. I find it unlikely though, these do not "move like a slinky" at all LOL. I can't even imagine what you are describing, the ones used now are solid, every bit as much as the stockers.
Bellows have been and are the biggest issue, one of which I would like to eliminate. There have been a lot of things done in the past in an attempt to make things work, lots of ideas and various ways of doing things, and none of them are in any of our current designs.
They will see 2000* with me on a regular basis so ill let you know if they blow up, fall apart or melt down.