Who all are running pucks up front for pulling and what thickness ? I ran a 2" puck all last season and plan on buying a stick of cold rolled 2" X 3" and doing some experimenting next season on how big I can go .
Pulling Pucks
- Thread starter AdaMax
- Start date
from what hes describing it sounds like hes blocking the front suspention so it dosent drop when adding weight! could b wrong but thats what it seems like to me,
Yeah, if thats the case, just make them adjustable instead of having to run different pieces of pipe.
got any pics of what you guys are talking about exactly? Do you run you bars all the way down and use the pucks to hold the front end up? Are the front shafts still able to level out?
I drive mine to the pulls so what I did was pulled out the front suspension bump stops and replaced them with 2" by 3" cold rolled steel . When I get to a pull I jack the front up to let the torsion bars down and bolt in the 2 pucks . It takes me just a couple minutes to put them in because i leave out the stock bump stops all year .
I ran 2.25" pucks this year, helped a ton in keeping hitch height on my single cab. Going to up it to 3" this year as I still loose hitch height and front still comes up a bit.
If you are placing them where stock bumpstops are, you are only controlling compression distance, not rebound distance. If you place a limiter on the upper control arm you can keep hitch height more constant, but there might be adverse handling effects
There will be if you make it too short. The ubrupt stopping of the upper control arm can pull weight off the front tires. A thick rubber snubber would work better.
I have seen the adjustable stops on the upper control arm , but what makes it diferent than stopping the travel of the lower control arm ?
By adjusting compression distance, you also adjust rebound height, which inturn helps maintain hitch height.
It also helps a ton trying to turn with 35s and stock height.
Yes, the truck will just lift to the same position, but if it starts out higher, it lifts less, and you lose less hitch height. We used 1" threaded rod (most race shops have it) and welded a nut to the top of the old stops, so now the rod screws down through the old mount and hits the a arm.
Maybe I should look into this. I have to do 40 point turns it seems with my 325s.. probably just run these bfg 285s this year and see how well they do
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makes perfect sense. This would have helped greatly when I put the sts tires on. I ended up having to pull of my front bumper to allow the truck to turn at all.
So is there an advantage of the adjustable stops on the top a arm over a bump stop on the bottom other than adjustability ?
My plan is that I will have from 1 1/2" all the way up to 3" in the truck so that on the rougher tracks i can go less on the front blocks to let the suspension work .
Another advantage I have right now is in my area there is only 2 other trucks running the pucks or any front suspension stop . So if I keep running the pucks instead of the adjustable less people realize what I am doing .
My plan is that I will have from 1 1/2" all the way up to 3" in the truck so that on the rougher tracks i can go less on the front blocks to let the suspension work .
Another advantage I have right now is in my area there is only 2 other trucks running the pucks or any front suspension stop . So if I keep running the pucks instead of the adjustable less people realize what I am doing .