pop goes lmm
- Thread starter motohed
- Start date
Greg, NelsonDiesel has a complete LMM for $3600 I saw posted on the dp.com. It was initially tagged as an LBZ, but it's actually an LMM. Might want to give him a ring. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305406
Yea your not going to get much for 3k.rods and pistons will run you around 4950 area, Then the machine shop for cleaning and tq plate honing, and thats hoping you did not hurt the block and can say stb.A cam alone will cost you 900 and your looking at 580 for head studs.and to have everything balanced is anywere from 200 to 700.Gaskets and seals will run you 200 to 500 bucks,I have around 8,500.00 in my motor thats taking off the twins cp3's and the injectors.
did you put it all together yourself then too ripmf666?
Yes there is a thread I posted with pics of us pulling the motor and tearing down,Then another with the rebuild and then install and first start up. I will get the links and add them to this post.
Ok here they are,Warning alot of pic's lol.
Taking it out and tear down.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5608&page=3
Rebuild and install.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6679
Last edited:
Bummer sorry to here it. motors always seem to pop at the worse times. throw a compresion checker on there for good mesure but prob a piston. around $10,500 is what my build cost doing all but the machine work my self. good luck. if you need any help pulling the motor or working on it me know.
shit. i hope i don't have to do rods. i only hope i have to do pistons and studs and machine work. any more and i don't know what ill do. id hate to go backwards and run less power after all ive put into my truck so far.
grrrr..... frustration.... damn sketchy economy.
put a call into so cal diesel but sadly guy was sick. so mabye tomorrow ill get to talk to him.
I know how it is if your not in the place to do a build. A motor worked for my needs at the time and is giving me time to build the budget for my build and keep the truck driving. Let me know if you need help with anything.
Chad
Chad
Last edited:
k thanks i sent a pm to nelsondiesel. couldn't do a post cuz i had to get a new account on dp so i don't have enough posts to post in marketplace
After you do pistons and machine work and the studs and the gaskets be a waiste not adding the rods for around another 2,600 bucks,Once you do the pistons and head studs and if your go and push it just as hard or even harder then before the rods will be next.Also if you reuse your stock rods you need to replace the rod cap bolts also. and if you save money and dont do the main studs you will need new Gm main bolts there one time use, But save the old once to check clearence on bearing.I did not do main studs and I know Pats has been of with the motors he has without them so you can save 250 from the studs and the 240 from the line hone.It adds up fast.
talked to guy today. he said there is a good chance i could have hurt the block. if thats the case i gotta go with 20 over pistons. so now that im back on planet earth i realize im going to be into this for 5K ish.
rods are way out of the question cuz then im at 8K pretty much. would love to, but thats the cut off point for me. any more than 5K and i gotta look into a used motor. who knows mabye ill have to get a used motor anyways if i hurt the rods too. won't know till i tear into it which wont be probably till the weekend after next cuz ill be inbetween jobs and have a week or two off, so that will be a good time to hammer it out.
rods are way out of the question cuz then im at 8K pretty much. would love to, but thats the cut off point for me. any more than 5K and i gotta look into a used motor. who knows mabye ill have to get a used motor anyways if i hurt the rods too. won't know till i tear into it which wont be probably till the weekend after next cuz ill be inbetween jobs and have a week or two off, so that will be a good time to hammer it out.
I understand times are rough but do not build your engine without rods call big shops and ask if they have any used set's of Crower rods you would be very foolish to do anything less. Rods, pistons, machine, and studs. Cause your rod's will let loose eventually
Last edited:
so strictly on a reliability factor, you guys don't think stock rods will hold? this is a d/d / worktruck. im never going to be doing dual fuelers, bigger turbo, twins, nitrous, nothing. that won't happen till i decide to turn it into a toy only truck which won't be for a long time.
all i want it to be able to run my race tune a lot, and not have to worry about my pistons. i don't really race much ( i think my truck has 30 passes on it max in a years time and 15K miles. 1/8th mile track) most likely ill be running my race tune and the one i just posted up 50/50 because its such a good d/d tune for me
all i want it to be able to run my race tune a lot, and not have to worry about my pistons. i don't really race much ( i think my truck has 30 passes on it max in a years time and 15K miles. 1/8th mile track) most likely ill be running my race tune and the one i just posted up 50/50 because its such a good d/d tune for me
Park the truck and ride a bicycle and save money until you can do it right. Seriously.
Or get a credit card that has no interest for 1 year for your excess.
Or get a credit card that has no interest for 1 year for your excess.