Pics of the New Pulling Setup
- Thread starter bullfrogjohnson
- Start date
I think most are from Washington Courthouse but I'm not sure. They are all on Central Ohio's facebook site.
Yeah, but you guys just pull in sand, so you dont know anything :rofl:JK
X2 :rofl::rofl:
J/K
It is what you said, just trying to show some "proof" for those that thought otherwise
Let's throw a wrench in it all and ask about my setup:
Stock front end with torsions let all the way down and hanging weight. Rear lowered with drop shackles and bump stops extended so it is resting on them while sitting (unless that pulls rules require 1" travel). Custom hitch directly between the frame rails with the receiver behind the license plate and rollpan - pulling ring sits in line with the shank and at 26".
I only got to hook with that setup twice last year and both times it blew an intercooler boot apart at the end of the track. I had some mix matched used 285-75 BFG and Trxus Mud terrains on the truck on stock rims with 2" spacers in the rear. The front only lifted until it was leveled but the truck wasn't lacking traction. I took 2nd to Ed Wayne by 6 feet on the second pull only because the intercooler boot blew. For this year I've added QA1's that I'll be turning the rebound all the way up on - and if I can may get some better tires.
On Winston's truck we always ran the torsion bars all the way down and his hook very well too. I think getting the hitch in line with the frame rails and as close to the back of the truck helps a good bit too.
Stock front end with torsions let all the way down and hanging weight. Rear lowered with drop shackles and bump stops extended so it is resting on them while sitting (unless that pulls rules require 1" travel). Custom hitch directly between the frame rails with the receiver behind the license plate and rollpan - pulling ring sits in line with the shank and at 26".
I only got to hook with that setup twice last year and both times it blew an intercooler boot apart at the end of the track. I had some mix matched used 285-75 BFG and Trxus Mud terrains on the truck on stock rims with 2" spacers in the rear. The front only lifted until it was leveled but the truck wasn't lacking traction. I took 2nd to Ed Wayne by 6 feet on the second pull only because the intercooler boot blew. For this year I've added QA1's that I'll be turning the rebound all the way up on - and if I can may get some better tires.
On Winston's truck we always ran the torsion bars all the way down and his hook very well too. I think getting the hitch in line with the frame rails and as close to the back of the truck helps a good bit too.
so you dont know anything :rofl:
Oh my friend you are incorrect....we do know how to pull here :cool2:
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Just goes to show that each truck is different.
When the train was here we tried a bunch of different things back & forth between . some worked others didn't. Some worked well on the train & my truck hated them.
I think the lower the bars deals is to save the tie rods & CV's for most. Some will tweak even more :thumb:
I agree Todd. Not a "one setup works for all" deal that i've seen either. Some trucks like this and than and some don't. Randy Doss's workstock truck kept breaking CVs and it finally stopped when he raised his t-bars a few turns rather than going as low as he could. Maybe the angle was too much the other way when he was leaving the line??
I'm mounting the hitch on my new truck the same as my orange one - between the rails. Except this one will have lowering shackles on it as well.
I have a Rancho lift and I take the torsion bolts out and throw them in the door pocket come spring time. It puts my cv's level without anything on them then puts them neg when I hang the weights. I've tried going up and down with them a little and they seem to be the happiest all the way down so that's where they stay.
I was starting to think I was the only one that thinks that way. I built mine as high as I could to be at 26" which made my loop perfectly even with the top of the receiver tube and as far up under the truck as I could and still be legal. My thoughts have always been that the hitches that come out and do a 90* up 6 or 8in. then pull from above the receiver tube transfers way to much weight to the back way to fast because they are trying to lift the front end anytime they have tension on them. I also see a lot of them that hang so far out behind the truck that it has to be killing the mechanical advantage severely which is just as bad. To me it seems anyone that could get the mount point up enough to do a 90* down to the loop and pull from under the receiver should in theory pull the front end down while having the same weight on the hitch and help plant the front shouldn't it?
I was starting to think I was the only one that thinks that way. I built mine as high as I could to be at 26" which made my loop perfectly even with the top of the receiver tube and as far up under the truck as I could and still be legal. My thoughts have always been that the hitches that come out and do a 90* up 6 or 8in. then pull from above the receiver tube transfers way to much weight to the back way to fast because they are trying to lift the front end anytime they have tension on them. I also see a lot of them that hang so far out behind the truck that it has to be killing the mechanical advantage severely which is just as bad. To me it seems anyone that could get the mount point up enough to do a 90* down to the loop and pull from under the receiver should in theory pull the front end down while having the same weight on the hitch and help plant the front shouldn't it?
It wouldn't pull the front tires down, no matter what it is behind the rear axle and using the rear axle as a fulcrum to pick up the front tires. I think that in as close to the back of the truck as possible is the biggest thing to give it less leverage on the truck. With a roll pan you can have the hitch tucked in nice and tight and build a custom hitch between the frame rails so that you aren't going up or down to get from the receiver to the ring.
Yea I understand it's not exactly going to pull down on the front. It just wouldn't pull up as much on the front due to leverage correct? Generally like a weight distributing hitch for a large bumper hitch camper or something. Same weight just moved around to gain mechanical advantage.
just remember too, the lower the hitch height, the less its gonna lift the front. higher isnt always better, depending on how loose the track is it seems. i know of a few stock height trucks that run 20" or 22" in a 26" class and just do better that way. with custom draw bar hitches, this fulcrum effect can be almost, if not totally, eliminated. my mentor always told me a hitch point is a hitch point...and that is true for custom hitches, but not for reese style, at least from what i have seen
Kinda OT here but reading anything we need to look at awd stuff as far as weight transfer
I dont know a thing about sledpulling but i know i do like a few vids posted here 2 white and 1 black truck
Travises truck is pretty fkn awsome IMO
Not sxure if it makes any matter but with my cog 6" ive never had issues with the diff or the front shaft but I also dont pull