Oil cooling

[hntngkd]

He has a ppe pan so I assume at the little plug in this pic below the oil level sensor

I cant see it being much different. My measurements are from the drain plug. Is there an added capacity with the ppe pan? Also the aluminum may be helping disipate heat better than a stock steel one.

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[PureHybrid]

From my experience, I also agree that pan is the hottest place.

How long is the temp probe Josh is using? We usually ran them a good 4-6" into the oil.

 

[Chevy1925]

No idea there.

I am curious if the fact that my old cooler had my sensor shrouded in its adapter where my new adapter has the sensor protruding out 1/2-3/4” in the new cooler and that had an effect on the temps I see. The new setup follows way more closely to coolant temp than prior.

Maybe next oil change I’ll throw my temp sensor in the pan at the drain plug.

 

[wilsondiesel]

Building a filled block lb7 pulling motor this winter, has anyone else on here ran a dry engine? If so what kind of oil cooler setup did you use or what kind of oil temps did you see?

 

[Bdsankey]

Bumping this up. I see mixed opinions on -10 vs -12. I am wondering if a steel -10 to -12 fitting would cause too much restriction in the system? I have a sandwich plate that was modified/ported to increase flow. This is on a truck that won't see high rpm as its a tow rig/daily driver so I am wondering if the steel -10 to -12 would be sufficient.

I am going with the cooler and a 200f activation/185f turnoff point switch below. The sandwich plate has a thermostat that starts to open at 160f and is full open at 180f. I'd imagine setting the temp switch on/off point for the cooler fan above full open temperature would be ideal to let the cooler do its job while not always having the fan on. I'm planning on putting it in front of the factory fuel cooler.

https://derale.com/product-footer/fluid-coolers/hi-flow-fluid-coolers/65861-detail

http://www.setrabusa.com/products/switches/index.html, TS200 switch, 31-TS200-12MM configuration for -12 male to -12 male

 

[Chevy1925]

lots of guys running -10. running to a -12 line after causes a pressure drop, just stick with -10 through out. consistancy is better than creating a bottle neck.

i wouldnt run a thermo switch on the fan. 200 is too late for the electric fan to play catch up. turn it on after the thermostat opens and let the thermostat cycle if need be (doubt it will unless its cold outside). if its that cold that you cant keep engine oil up to 200+*, turn the fan off and see how it follow. you need heat to burn out moisture.

once oil temp is hot, its HARD to bring it back down when under load. id rather know the fan has got the oil as cool as possible when being driven hard up a hill than to try to play catch up because its too hot now. Cooler outside temps will make this a fun game lol but the stock oil cooler will do a better job then as well (cooling system will be able to remove more heat from the cooling stack)

 

[Bdsankey]

lots of guys running -10. running to a -12 line after causes a pressure drop, just stick with -10 through out. consistancy is better than creating a bottle neck.

i wouldnt run a thermo switch on the fan. 200 is too late for the electric fan to play catch up. turn it on after the thermostat opens and let the thermostat cycle if need be (doubt it will unless its cold outside). if its that cold that you cant keep engine oil up to 200+*, turn the fan off and see how it follow. you need heat to burn out moisture.

once oil temp is hot, its HARD to bring it back down when under load. id rather know the fan has got the oil as cool as possible when being driven hard up a hill than to try to play catch up because its too hot now. Cooler outside temps will make this a fun game lol but the stock oil cooler will do a better job then as well (cooling system will be able to remove more heat from the cooling stack)

Sounds good, the other option is a ~180f activation/~165f off point. I can put it either on the inlet or outlet of the cooler. My plan was always on the output of the cooler to let it take some of the heat out. The reason for the therm switch is so the fan isn't running 24/7 helping it live longer. The 180f switch I think would be a decent compromise as it pretty much mimics the sandwich plate's thermostat while not turning the fan on at a simple key on operation. I'll be running it off 2 relays, one activated on key on to provide power to the main relay that is activated by the therm switch.


I'm going to be pairing this with a 2020 oil cooler as well.

 

[DAVe3283]

Sounds good, the other option is a ~180f activation/~165f off point. I can put it either on the inlet or outlet of the cooler. My plan was always on the output of the cooler to let it take some of the heat out. The reason for the therm switch is so the fan isn't running 24/7 helping it live longer. The 180f switch I think would be a decent compromise as it pretty much mimics the sandwich plate's thermostat while not turning the fan on at a simple key on operation. I'll be running it off 2 relays, one activated on key on to provide power to the main relay that is activated by the therm switch.

I'm going to be pairing this with a 2020 oil cooler as well.

You can save yourself a relay by running the wiring this way instead:

                                   Fan
                                    ^
Ignition sw. > Fuse > Therm sw. > Relay > Ground
                                    ^
                                  Fuse
                                    ^
                                 Battery

No real point having a relay feed a relay, IMO.

I run -10 lines on an old -10 sandwitch plate and don't notice much of restriction. However, it isn't enough cooling to keep oil temps in line on long hills with 600 HP. After a minute or two of 400+ HP continuous, I see oil pressure start dropping off more than I'd like. I'll probably also be switching to the 2020 cooler soon, and might take the opportunity to upgrade to a -12 adapter too. When I did mine, there were no -12 adapters out yet, but now, I agree with James, might as well go -12 and be done with it.

 

[Bdsankey]

You can save yourself a relay by running the wiring this way instead:

                                   Fan
                                    ^
Ignition sw. > Fuse > Therm sw. > Relay > Ground
                                    ^
                                  Fuse
                                    ^
                                 Battery

No real point having a relay feed a relay, IMO.

I run -10 lines on an old -10 sandwitch plate and don't notice much of restriction. However, it isn't enough cooling to keep oil temps in line on long hills with 600 HP. After a minute or two of 400+ HP continuous, I see oil pressure start dropping off more than I'd like. I'll probably also be switching to the 2020 cooler soon, and might take the opportunity to upgrade to a -12 adapter too. When I did mine, there were no -12 adapters out yet, but now, I agree with James, might as well go -12 and be done with it.

Yeah, that makes sense. I'm trying to keep a sub 500hp truck cool. It's my dedicated tow rig and daily driver that is now getting compounds.

I'm going to take the advice of one of the other members on here and buy some 10orb->12AN and drill them out to the ID of the 12AN side and weld them to both the cooler and the sandwich plate. Then everything else is pretty straight forward. I am debating about putting a bung on the cooler itself for the temp probe as opposed to an inline reading to reduce the number of fittings. Worst case scenario I will use the Setrab -12 male to male fitting with temp probe in it with 180f activation/165f turn off point.

 

[malibu795]

Only effective place I found for a temp switch was pre coolers.. never did find one that was weather tight... Ended up just running fans manually

 

[Bdsankey]

Only effective place I found for a temp switch was pre coolers.. never did find one that was weather tight... Ended up just running fans manually

After talking with Josh, I will be running my fan activation switch (180f activation, 165f turn off) into the hot side (pre coolers) at the factory oil cooler port. This will mimic the fluid temps seen by the sandwich plate which has the same temperature rating for its internal thermostat to bypass the aux cooler. I will use the second port on the oil cooler for temperature monitoring to see what oil temps that the mains/rest of the block actually receive.

 

[Bdsankey]

Probably a dumb question, but those with auxiliary coolers, are you draining and refilling them at every oil change or just letting that amount of oil remain in the system?

 

[rmk800ak]

Probably a dumb question, but those with auxiliary coolers, are you draining and refilling them at every oil change or just letting that amount of oil remain in the system?

Good Question I was going to ask this as well.


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[DAVe3283]

Probably a dumb question, but those with auxiliary coolers, are you draining and refilling them at every oil change or just letting that amount of oil remain in the system?

I leave the extra oil in. It's less than half a quart for mine, and I doubt that dilutes the new oil enough to really matter.

 

[fl0w3n]

I was watching some stuff on the 2020 L5P last night and saw the oil cooler had been significantly redesigned, has anyone looked into retrofitting to older blocks?

 

[DAVe3283]

I was watching some stuff on the 2020 L5P last night and saw the oil cooler had been significantly redesigned, has anyone looked into retrofitting to older blocks?

You trolling? LOL

Scroll up in this thread, a couple members already did it. They share the parts needed and the results.

 

[Bdsankey]

I leave the extra oil in. It's less than half a quart for mine, and I doubt that dilutes the new oil enough to really matter.

My cooler claims to have 47oz capacity. I doubt it'll be a problem because by the time most of us change our oil anyway we haven't used up the additive package. I figure between the lines and everything it should be about 2 quarts (10ft of 0.62 line is is 20oz). As long as your filter does a good job keeping the oil clean I don't see it being a problem. Only oil analysis will tell.

 

[Bdsankey]

I was watching some stuff on the 2020 L5P last night and saw the oil cooler had been significantly redesigned, has anyone looked into retrofitting to older blocks?

You trolling? LOL

Scroll up in this thread, a couple members already did it. They share the parts needed and the results.

Like Dave said, its all over this thread. Especially back a few pages. It's doable but you've got to trim a heat shield tab on your manifold as well as buy a few 2020 parts to make it fit properly.

 

[Chevy1925]

Probably a dumb question, but those with auxiliary coolers, are you draining and refilling them at every oil change or just letting that amount of oil remain in the system?

my first cooler had a drain so i used it. The current one i dont touch. stacked plate coolers dont like to be constantly torqued on and ive had to replace it once already from it cracking at a plate junction just below a fitting. whole system holds an extra quart and a half and i always change the oil way sooner than needed. when the engine was 100% dry (new), i added 12.5 quarts to hit full after starting and filling everything. after a drain/filter change, i put 11.5 quarts in so there is only an extra quart hidden throughout the engine and cooler.

 

[Bdsankey]

my first cooler had a drain so i used it. The current one i dont touch. stacked plate coolers dont like to be constantly torqued on and ive had to replace it once already from it cracking at a plate junction just below a fitting. whole system holds an extra quart and a half and i always change the oil way sooner than needed. between the oil left in the stock cooler, stock pan, and every other nook and cranny in the engine, i dont see it benefiting much.

Gotcha, that was kind of my thought with a good filter. I was trying to do extended intervals on my LB7 then a bearing decided to die and cause elevated copper levels into the oil. New plan is 5k change intervals with Cenpeco S3 15W40 (LINK). May switch to a 5W40 come winter time unless I plug it in.