so everyone agree's oil temps only get above 200 towing?
racing and sled pulling they seem to be reasonable for the short burst?
racing and sled pulling they seem to be reasonable for the short burst?
Oil cooling
- Thread starter super diesel
- Start date
Post #80 tells of my temps unloaded (it was between 45-50*F out side at the time). This is also the case when I power it up going up the hwy and step on it to pass a few times on higher tunes. We need some solid info pulling and racing.
A 1/4 mile isnt enough time at WOT to get the oil at or past the safe zone. My oil temp willl go from 170-175 to about 190-195, and then drops on the return road, as well as coolant temps. Short bursts, I see no problem, but towing....
During the summer months my oil will be at or around 200* unloaded cruising.
IIRC, before the cooler install they were in the 220* area under similar conditions.
I've also notice that even a spirited freeway on ramp can bump the oil temps up 10* or more. I've never sled pulled with my truck, and the few times I was at the strip with it I didn't really pay attention to the oil temps. Our track is usually so packed that it can be an hour between pulls, so the truck isn't really at operating temps when you race. Idling in the staging lanes doesn't put much heat into the engine..
If you aren't busy the first week of may, and IF I get voted into the challenge, Mike, you are more than welcome to come help run tests on my truck during the events. Just tell me how you want it set up for control purposes and I'll set it up. I run CenPeCo 20w-50 but I also have high TBN and Zinc Amsoil 20w-50 syn here I can use....just let me know.
Tim
Good deal Tim. Keep me posted. Would LOVE to see some oil temp result from the challenge!
opcorn:
opcorn:
Good deal Tim. Keep me posted. Would LOVE to see some oil temp result from the challenge!
how far are you from Denver Mike?
It has been a while since I did the oil monitoring thing. If needed, I'll dig out my notes. It was all in connection with the overheating LLY thing years ago.
What I took from the whole exercise:
The oil temp in the pan will tell you how hard you are working the motor and oil. In my opinion it is the best place to monitor it. I have seen temps in the pan exceed 300*, towing at 26,000# Gross.
The oil cooler is very good at tempering the oil temp going into the motor. Always close to the exit temp of the water leaving the cooler. I never saw anything that exceeded 10*-20* of the water temp exiting the cooler.
Oil temps ARE important, but without additional volume, you don't make much of a dent in the in-pan temperatures by just cooling the oil.
What I took from the whole exercise:
The oil temp in the pan will tell you how hard you are working the motor and oil. In my opinion it is the best place to monitor it. I have seen temps in the pan exceed 300*, towing at 26,000# Gross.
The oil cooler is very good at tempering the oil temp going into the motor. Always close to the exit temp of the water leaving the cooler. I never saw anything that exceeded 10*-20* of the water temp exiting the cooler.
Oil temps ARE important, but without additional volume, you don't make much of a dent in the in-pan temperatures by just cooling the oil.
No. Wish I was. It would be a far better converter for me.
Good to have you here and your input.
My question is this; Won't the much cooler oil coming from the external oil cooler help out the heat exchanger that the oil travels through next in fighting and reducing the temps before it gets to the gallies, heads, and so on where it's reheated through internal combustion process thus lowering the overall pan temps which would be lower than non externally cooled oil? It looks as though your saying that the oil is cooled a whole lot by just the factory heat exhanger. BHoward posted temps that were pretty high for post cooler. What kind of extra quantity are you thinking would benefit us? I'm running about 2.5 extra quarts right now through my setups. Also, couldn't adding more oil capacity act like when we put a deep pan on our Alison in the instance of it taking more time to heat it up, but in turn it takes more time to cool it down as well? I'm learning here.
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Fingers. If the oil was cooled through the external coolers which comes from the pan by way of the oil pump wouldn't this help control what temps the oil would be when it hit the motor parts thus helping control expansion of the components to a point of scuffing or even shearing (given the oil was to a heated point that this could happen without external cooling)? I mean BHoward was seeing some pretty high after stock cooler temps (where he had his temp gauge mounted), and this is what I was hoping to improve.
Do we need a finned (ribbed) oil pan to help shed the in pan temps? Should we be checking after cooler temps instead?
Do we need a finned (ribbed) oil pan to help shed the in pan temps? Should we be checking after cooler temps instead?
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Good info:thumb: but for the dumb ones like me
Don't sell your self short. Most folks don't dive into the oiling systems on these.
Here it goes for what I can remember. Oil pan-oil pickup-oil pump-oil filter (out side to the center)-though the filter element and back in to the motor, through the cooler/heater to travel through the gallies and passages to oil the components (piston squirters are directly attached and feed by the gallies), over/through the components and back down into the pan. Walla.
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reason I ask is because I am going to be running a ~80mm HTT single with a 1055 for the challenge, and I have no idea how it will do towing at that altitude. guess I'll just keep the bottles on
:thumb:
I just checked on my filter hosing Josh. The oil flows from the outside to the center on the filter. The center then feeds the cooler. I had to check because it's been to long since I've been in there and I couldn't remember it all. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
This was a computer generated response. If incorrect, in no way should this poster be held responsible.
This was a computer generated response. If incorrect, in no way should this poster be held responsible.
reason I ask is because I am going to be running a ~80mm HTT single with a 1055 for the challenge, and I have no idea how it will do towing at that altitude. guess I'll just keep the bottles on
I think that would be my converter of choice for up here. High stall which is GOOD. No worries. N2O IS your friend up here as well.
When are they going to say who the contestants are for the challenge Tim?
April 3rd I believe. And for a high stall converter that isnt meant for towing, by design, I am impressed by the drivability of it with my setup at near sea level. its not laggy or soft, it hits hard and is much more responsive than I expected