Oh Mike, what have I done this time?

MaxFarmer

MaxFarmer

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Yesterday on my way into town I was about 5 miles into my trip, truck was still pretty cold....well engine was halfway warm but the tranny was not.

I laid into it about 3/4 throttle (turned onto the highway), and got to about 50-60mph and it went into limp mode. I tried cycling the key at least 4 times but it would not come out of limp so I limped it to town another 10 miles.

Later in the evening we were cruising around (mostly 10mph and less) for about an hour when I noticed my tranny temps were warmer than they had been in a long time. I headed home and by this time the limp mode was off and my temps cooled down some going down the highway but they were still warmer than they have been in a long time--like 220-240 degrees compared to 190-200 normally.

Codes tripped were P0700 (limp) and P1721 Solenoid B coltrolled clutch stuck off.

I'm guessin I slipped my clutches when it was cold, but did I really "F" it up being it got as warm as it did later or is that a residual effect of maybe driving around in limp mode?

Thanks,
Jason
 
LBZ

LBZ

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Hmnn. I got a similar code but it was solenoid B stuck on!! And it limped. But after a key cycle it came out of limp.
But it happened from an easy merge onto the highway on a warm tranny.

What causes these solenoids to stick on/off??
 
Mike L.

Mike L.

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It's not the solenoid. Change your spin on filter and cut the old one open to see what's inside. I bet the filter is plugged. Check the sump filter also to see if it fell out of the case and see if there is any clutch material in the pan. The only thing that creates heat that much is bad converter or plugged filter. if you need to, call me on my cell. 310 918 9678
 
MaxFarmer

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Some spin-on pictures and what I drained out of the spin-on in a bucket before cutting open.

sq_194239.jpg


sq_194253.jpg


sq_194435.jpg
 
MaxFarmer

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I would say they look more black to me, but yeah probablly. :(
Like the bucket picture, I had it tipped the other way for 5-10 minutes, then tipped it the other way and took the picture. All the dark stuff was in the filter. I cant seem to get the pictures larger here, here's the link to them:
http://www.dropshots.com/JasonBuhlmann#date/2007-09-30/19:42:39

Sorry they are so blurry. If I knew how to focus the damn camara myself I would have!

So, assuming it is clutch material, I suppose I'm gonna have to rebuild? Will it make it a while? If the McRat spring fling ever works out I may just have to schedule an appointment with you Mike!
 
MaxFarmer

MaxFarmer

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SHOULD is the key word. I think all my in-store credit is used up at ATS.... My experience with their customer service hasnt been that great.........

Are the stage 5's still warrantied for unilmited HP and TQ? I know the first tranny I ever got from them was but I think they gave that up now, correct? I've been swapped trannies a couple of times from them already but its costed me both times...
 
MaxFarmer

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I changed the spin-on (of course) and have driven it about 100 miles since the limp and heat issue. Up until yesterday I had no problems with those 100 miles---it wasnt getting hot or shifting funny or anything. Yesterday the hired man backed it out of the shed and when I went to pull it back in it had the Check Engine light on again. He said the lights were on when he backe it out...yeah right, I know better. Anyway, since the DP's registry is down can anyone tell me what these codes are? I'm thinking he just started it up and put it right into gear instead of waiting a bit like I always do. My truck takes about 2-3 seconds after you start it (especailly after sitting a few days) before I hear and somewhat feel a "thunk" in the tranny (it kind of makes the truck lurch forward) and then I know I'm good to go....I'm guessin he didnt wait, but here's the codes anyway:
P0841
P0846
P1710

Thanks,
 
MaxFarmer

MaxFarmer

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The Ally is hurtin for certain now. I must have been a little hard on it on my birthday, not sure.
The first two shifts are fine but it slips as soon as my RPM's get close to 2000 the next gear. If I let off sometimes it will just shift and I will be OK. If it will not shift I can put it in N and then back to D and it will shft and work fine. Sometimes if I let it rev/slip to high before I let off or go to N it will go into limp mode. Doesnt run hot at all though.
Code P0700 is all that shows up.
Would it make a road trip to Cali?
 
Mike L.

Mike L.

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Pan drop is in order to see what's going on inside. I don't think it will make it here. Give me a call. 310 674 4400
 
MaxFarmer

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OK, pan is dropped. I'll post up some pictures of what was in the bottom in a little bit. I would say there is quite a bit of clutch material in there... :(
You guys mentioned that ATS should warranty it.... Should I pull it myself and ship it to them to look at? I would really rather send it your way Mike and have the damn thing DONE RIGHT for once. I dont care if you put SC parts in it, I just want it to last a while!
Do you think I could rebuild it myself? I've read where other people have, and I'm pretty mechanically inclined, just very intimidated. I'm really interested in some of these newer higer stall convertors also.
I cant wait to hear from you Mike and I'll get pics up as soon as I can get to my desktop.
 
MaxFarmer

MaxFarmer

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sq_174733.jpg


That was scraped off the bottom of the pan.

Test - Jason it looks like if you take the link from the large pic it will work. Hope that helps

b_174733.jpg
 
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MaxFarmer

MaxFarmer

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So I guess it has to come out, huh? :(

Do you think its more than just a (not so) simple rebuild?

Do you want to mess with it or should I send it to ATS?
 
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