Maybe but the front mounts bolt onto frame so I'll install them at ride height and bolt them to frame then
2006 CCLB DRW 6"fabtech 35"s 4.11 w/arb sdp 475 over stock 30% ii nozzles fass150 sdp built trans
"OFFICIAL" What did you do to your D-Max today?
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Maybe but the front mounts bolt onto frame so I'll install them at ride height and bolt them to frame then
2006 CCLB DRW 6"fabtech 35"s 4.11 w/arb sdp 475 over stock 30% ii nozzles fass150 sdp built trans
adjustable is just an easier way to bolt them on. gives you some leeway when you dont tighten the u-bolts down equally. in his case, i would loosely bolt the u-bolt plate up so its close to square with the spring plate on the axle, bolt bar to u-bolt plate, put frame mount on the bar, rotate up to the frame, mark holes and drill. then measure the hole locations just drilled from repetable marks on each side of the truck, mark holes on the other side, drill, then bolt it all together tightly.
You dont want preload in the bars. it changes pinion angle and makes the ride worse than it will already become adding the bars. some guys twist them up at the track stiffening the rear spring rate at the cost of a worse pinion angle. a spring clamp would be better in that situation over twisting up the bars or adding adjustable shocks.
Nice! Did you have a local shop build them? I've wondered if that is a cheaper route that achieves the same payout.
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"OFFICIAL" What did you do to your D-Max today?
I never looked at it from that angle but that makes a ton of sense. I've always thought of them being adjustable for keeping the pinion down at many varying ride heights and to keep them from rattling. I wonder what kinda of torque to the ground you'd have to have to twist bars! That would be something you could hang on your shop wall like a taxidermy mount lol
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I never looked at it from that angle but that makes a ton of sense. I've always thought of them being adjustable for keeping the pinion down at many varying ride heights and to keep them from rattling. I wonder what kinda of torque to the ground you'd have to have to twist bars! That would be something you could hang on your shop wall like a taxidermy mount lol
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I had dirtdesigns build them for me. They are local to me and they've also build a ibeamed duramax ( cover of many mags ) and ibeamed Cummins which also been on cover of several mags. They do really nice Offroad stuff and I can ask what he would charge to make some to public if others are interested. The bars are about 5 1/2 ft long if I were to guess
2006 CCLB DRW 6"fabtech 35"s 4.11 w/arb sdp 475 over stock 30% ii nozzles fass150 sdp built trans
you should never use the bars to adjust your pinion angle unless you are a true 4 link. good way to kill the springs if you ever put any kind of load on the truck. if they rattle, thats just poor choice in joints used.
Oh ive seen plenty twist or bend. mainly from either poor design or wrong material chosen. of all the ones i built, none have bent and some have been through some very tough abuse sled pulling
And, more info please... which one did you go with? Too bad you could not have gone with the 10mm. BTW, sweet ride!!
Exergy sportsman, the 10mm was double the price of the sportsman. What I ended up with is enough fuel to blow up a stock motor :woott:
Been there... that's how I ended up with my set-up!
Yeah I got some other life plans going on right now so the motor is gonna have to wait to blow up if it doesn't mind.
Nice sean. Hope I'll be able to get a bigger pump next year and my injectors done.
Well, I didn't pull it for fun. It went kaboom, either way it got an upgrade lol
How bad was it to pull? I am gonna have a few days working on my truck lol. When I have that turbo and y bridge out it should be a breeze I'm thinking. Done a turbo before but nothing fuel system related.
Well everything is easier on the lb7, y-bridge took all of 3 minutes, taking off all the fuel lines was a pain but I cut most of them out anyway since I'm making a change.
CP3 and turbo are cake it's getting to them and covering them up that sucks.
Check for leaks as soon as you can. Especially the coolant system. As soon as you get it sealed up fill and pressurize it a little bit with an air compressor to see if you have any leaks. Taking it back down to fix a leak sucks.
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Check for leaks as soon as you can. Especially the coolant system. As soon as you get it sealed up fill and pressurize it a little bit with an air compressor to see if you have any leaks. Taking it back down to fix a leak sucks.
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I don't have to open up my cooling system for it with the van thermostat housing.
I gutted the entire fuel supply and return system and am making/made all new lines for everything, if anything that's where I could potentially have a leak
