Off Season Sled Pulling Mods
- Thread starter Rhall
- Start date
im running a girdle in my new motor. only main studs in the last one at just shy of 1k hp and my mains where walking pretty bad. and this is now an LBZ crank and block so we'll see, last one was all lb7
I was quoting Rob. I like his sarcastic comments over there. Either way, they seem to got it figured out on DF ! :spit:
I dont sled pull, but i think it would be a lil harder to build a tune for that VS a race tune. Heck race tunes are easier than DD tunes
i would think an all out sled pulling tune would be easier than a drag truck because we dont have to worry about shifting, converter locking, leaving the line, etc... with a ODL truck and a pedal clutch as long as the charger comes up nice, it makes peak power safely and the truck is geared correctly for the track and sled it should be good to go. a WOT tune has got to be easier that a DD tune that has to be able to operate in many different scenarios. we've been on the engine dyno the last 2 seasons with mine and i will say that just "maxing out" the tables is not the way to go, i've actually taken timing out of mine because it would only make a 3-4hp difference and i figured i would give up the 4hp and back the timing off to gain some longevity, but maybe some people dont care about blowing stuff up and just put it on 32* and say F*%& it...
Getting an auto pulling truck to spool is the biggest issue with tuning in my opinion. That and factor in if your shifting isn't smooth on the 3-4 with an extra 40k lbs in tow, you might have driveline surprise.:woott:
We fought my Allison for 3 years. For the $ I had in that pile I could of bought 2 drop boxes and reversers.
We had the best luck running 4th all the way down no shifting, I don't miss the Allison days ONE BIT! The unlock button was always cool though haha
Agreed
All the motor builds we have done from street trucks to All out 3.0 / Mod etc. Not one single girdle was used. We are very strong towards proper machine process Studs and Billet Mains. Some are partial fills some are full fills.
I will say everytime we used a LMM Crank in BlowerMax it failed both internal balanced and external balanced. Now it runs an alter fire cam shaft stock stroke LBZ Crank billet mains and studs. No issues to date.
Out of all the 3.0 motors we have had our hands in one small crack on a LB7 after 4 years of 1000hp studs billet mains partial fill.
Every Billet Crank stock stroke or stroked ever used (not by choice but by customer requested or customer supplied parts and we where the labor behind assembly) Has cracked or broke completely in half.
My thoughts.... The early LMM Crank 07.5-09 is a door stop. I do not think of the failures we have scene a girdle would have saved them.
I have scene in one instance that the girdle actually made matters worse to an already poor designed block. The #2 Cap walked and when it walked it forced the girdle to start to walk in relation walked all the mains. Little food for thought.
I think a girdle is designed to stiffen the bottom end of a block and keep stuff from flexing and taking out the bearings. I can't see where a girdle or billet caps is gonna stop a crank from breaking.... Seems like the later gen motors have shitty cranks. There wasn't much talk back in the day of lb7/lly cranks breaking, but maybe I'm wrong?
I hope your touching some wood with all this crank talk. My crank looked fine after this season but when we magnafluxxed it turns out it was cracked. I'm just happy we found it this way. I think the new cam EDP is talking about is a step in the right direction and am happy he's sharing all of this info. I don't have much to add as I'm very green.
Dave we need more pics, your avatars are such a tease.
Thats what I'm think, looks like he is doing some cool stuff
food for thought about cranks the duramax is the only firing order i know of that dosent have cylinders 1 and 8 together in the firing order they either start with 1 then end in 8 making the next cylinder to fire 1 or go 1 then 8
We went to running girdles back in 08 on 750+hp builds becuase of the main bearing wear from the caps walking back and forth. You get tired of rebearing a pulling motor every season. The girdle will not fix the crank breaking but will help the bearing issues caused by cap walking. Jon Jon's(The Hulk) 2.6 puller is still running the same motor untouched that I built him in 08 and it is girdled and has been at 900+hp since day one without any issue. It would have been nice to get a bulletproof crank like the cummins guys have but we got the much nicier trucks!
I dont use a girdle. I have a engine with one and when it is pulled apart for inspection there is no difference. Duramax is a four bolt main, the only people using them are the ones that sell them is my thought. I have yet to have a crank crack or break in a pulling application. I believe there is alot to do with tuning again just my thought. I have yet to have a piston fail as well. Altough I have bent three different billet rod manufactures rods. Even spit one through a block on a engine dyno and crank checked out being maged because I was curious? It did go into scrap pile thought.
I did try changing the fire order on the dyno last year and it is not for me.