The CompD calculator, which I've always found to be fairly accurate, shows 700 hp for the weight and trap on the 10.8 pass I made in the Dumpster.I wonder what max power has been made on stock lbz with spray?
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Nitrous for stock LBZ
- Thread starter JeremyDon88
- Start date
This forum is hell on my truck and this thread isn't helping. It's lucky it needs synchros first lmao
That's what I'm talkin bout!! I've got a lock box so I should b close when I get the spray on!!:woott:
Man I'm glad u chimed in!! Ur just the feller I need to talk to and the whole reason I started this thread!! Haha I'm almost identical weight as u and I think I'm close to 550 with out the spray so mayb a 150 shot will get me there u think?? I need ur 10 sec Tune!! Lol don't think I've got enough fuel on the tune I running now.. At least by Judging from the smoke goin down the track.
Even tho your exhaust is fairly clean running down the track, don't let it fool you, most likely there's still a fair amount of fuel that needs burning.
I think I may have found a kit but not sure what size the noid is but the jet is a .99 n it comes with a 15lb bottle but no gage or heater for 75 bucks! Has wot switch so mayb we can see what happens if the weather ever clears up round here n stops raining!!
Who makes a good heater? I don't Wana end up gettin a cheapo and it don't keep it at at constant desired psi!!
I hate the 12v heaters, they either take forever to heat the bottle or the heat only stays a short amount of time before bottle looses pressure. Heatin it in warm water seems to keep it holding all day even after spraying.
You're definitely going to need a pressure gauge hooked up to the bottle so you can monitor where the pressure is at when you put it in the hot water or use a 12v heater. Too much pressure and you'll either blow the safety valve or over pressurize the solenoid(s) so they won't open.
Consistency is key, always run the same bottle pressure (once you figure out where you want it), hobbs switch set at a certain pressure, or WOT switch to activate, etc. etc.
I run a bottle heater with a pressure switch that shuts the heater off at roughly 1050 psi & turns it back on at 1000. I got mine from Nitrous Express. It works really well & it's very consistent. I bracket race so I couldn't have it any other way.
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I use the same thing, but I think I have mine set to 1100 psi. I've never had a problem with my blanket keeping the pressure up.
I also have that same heater. Using hot water works, but I dont know who wants to take the time to do that while in the pits... I just flip a switch and walk away 
It would be after the tranny gets done. But i wouldn't mind shooting some n20 in mine. Quick question is when I power shift I don't let off the throttle, can I make it cut the n20 off during shifts with the clutch pedal position some how? That way it doesn't rev to quick for me to make the shift? Sorry for the derail