Info: New Rocker Shaft Stud Kit

Diesel power

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Got another design being looked at now, it will include an aluminum bodie 1.5 ratio (200 grams lighter overall) Roller tip, the fulcrum will be bushing or roller bearing...havent desides yet because of cost difference, and it will fit under the factory cover and on the factory shaft.....;)
 

JoshH

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sweetdiesel

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I was doing a little searching today. I found these ARP bolts that I think I'm gonna use on my truck: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP-672-1010&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Edit: I also found these studs. They're about a half an inch longer than the stock bolts, so I'm not sure if they'll work or not. Might be something to look into though. http://store.summitracing.com/partd...922124+4294811896+4294867143+115&autoview=sku


Josh are they not 80mm lenght? If so the first ones would be best the second are a inch longer
 

JoshH

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Yes, they are 80mm under head. If you had an 80mm stud, it wouldn't stick out over the rocker shaft. I measured the stock bolts to be about 90mm long (about 3.57") from the top of the head to the bottom of the bolt.

I just ordered 2 sets of the bolts from Summit. They're back ordered right now and aren't supposed to ship until 27 Feb, but I'll post pics as soon as they get here though.
 
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sweetdiesel

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Yes, they are 80mm under head. If you had an 80mm stud, it wouldn't stick out over the rocker shaft. I measured the stock bolts to be about 90mm long (about 3.57") from the top of the head to the bottom of the bolt.

I just ordered 2 sets of the bolts from Summit. They're back ordered right now and aren't supposed to ship until 27 Feb, but I'll post pics as soon as they get here though.

Cool....Hope they work

Did you read this
They are nominally rated at 180,000 psi tensile strength to provide a substantial extra margin of safety over Grade 8 hardware

I would think with being a stud they would be stonger than a 10.9 bolt,Dont you think
 

WolfLMM

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From what me and you talked about Simon, I would say yes, the stud will be a better choice.
 

JoshH

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I just did a search on 10.9 bolt tensile strength. It said the nominal tensile strength for 10.9 bolts was 1040 MPa (approx 151,000 psi). FYI, those are bolts, not studs. The second link is studs. One thing that's odd, is the spec list says tensile strength of 170k psi, but the text below says 180k psi. Either way, it's a pretty good option IMO.
 

othrgrl

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If I'm not mistaken when they measure for effective stud length they are measuring to the bottom of a nut that is threaded to have 1 thread protruding. So as Simon said the studs would be a full inch longer than the bolts. A stud with an 80mm or slightly longer effective stud length would work.
 

super diesel

<<<< Under Pressure
Remember guys. Were anchoring into aluminum. You will never see the holding capabilities of even a so called 10.9 bolt. Your looking at a metric bolt with a finer thread. Not a termendous amount of gripping area. Now with a bigger dia heliacoil (good idea if this stud or bolt is removed alot), will change that some. I sleep well with my Unbreakos in there.
 
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WolfLMM

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Remember guys. Were anchoring into aluminum. You will never see the holding capabilities of even a so called 10.9 bolt. Your looking at a metric bolt with a finer thread. Not a termendous amount of gripping area. Now with a bigger dia heliacoil (good idea if this stud or bolt is removed alot), will change that some. I sleep well with my Unbreakos in there.

Very True, I was just stating a general fact that a stud will in general "hold" better.
 

JOHNBOY

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I prefer the studs over bolts because I can get the max amount of thread to thread contact with them. Getting that would be hard. Also I like the stud better because of the fact it is installed with no tension. A far less chance of them guilding in than with a bolt. The uber would be a stud in a heliacoil. I woulder who would do a thing like that.:)

Also remeber when screwing a steel bolt in to alunimium lube is your freind. ARP moly is the chit IMHO.

Great Posts Guys!
 

MadMaxx61

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Remember guys. Were anchoring into aluminum. You will never see the holding capabilities of even a so called 10.9 bolt. Your looking at a metric bolt with a finer thread. Not a termendous amount of gripping area. Now with a bigger dia heliacoil (good idea if this stud or bolt is removed alot), will change that some. I sleep well with my Unbreakos in there.


I would not use a heliacoil as they can come out and are not full thread. Have any of you used a TIME-SERT this is what we used in just about anything we could not plug/weld/dill/tap. They hold a lot better than the heliacoils and come in just about any size you could want.

http://www.timesert.com/
 

super diesel

<<<< Under Pressure
Also remeber when screwing a steel bolt in to alunimium lube is your freind. ARP moly is the chit IMHO.

Yes. Moly is your friend. Good add on John.

I would not use a heliacoil as they can come out and are not full thread. Have any of you used a TIME-SERT this is what we used in just about anything we could not plug/weld/dill/tap. They hold a lot better than the heliacoils and come in just about any size you could want.

http://www.timesert.com/


I've used the heliacoil in the past because of the bigger dia. courser thread and it's better gripping ability. Also for screws that get removed quite frequently that are in aluminum. I like the looks of the TIME-SERT. Looks like a good alternative. Thanks for the post.
 
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Leadfoot

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I like the looks of the TIME-SERT. Looks like a good alternative.

I believe a traditional heli-coil will mount flush or even below the "deck height", whereas this TIME-SERT looks to have a flange on it. I would think that might cause an issue where two pieces have to be bolted together, unless you countersunk it......

I'm assuming in this scenario (rocker arm stud), the flange would not be an issue though.

It does have a more "finished" look to it than a heli-coil, but heli-coils have saved my butt a time or two :eek:
 

JoshH

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I'm assuming in this scenario (rocker arm stud), the flange would not be an issue though.
Actually in our application, I think it would be an issue. The oil flows up from the cam through the heads on either side of the center mounting bolt.
 

JoshH

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I got the Chromemoly ARP bolts a few weeks ago. I am going to start putting my engine together in a couple of weeks, so I will post some pictures then.
 

SIKDMAX

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I tried calling this guy who sells them supposedly, left a message, finally got a hold of him he told me he was driving and to call him back in a few hours when he was home, did, left another message, and never got a return call back :confused:

Dammit :mad: