LBZ: Needs Some help Looking at Used Trucks

[1FastBrick]

I have been shopping for used trucks and I have looked at a Few. I am new to the diesel world But not this specific year range of trucks. It is amazing at what some of the used car dealers are trying to pass off out there. It's easy to hide stuff in pictures but when you look at a vehicle in person and see it for what it truly is, It's a shame.

That being said, I have seen alot trucks with dirty coolant tanks. Some appear almost down right black inside of the coolant tank. Naturally with these being about 10 years old there all being sold as is. Last thing I need is to pay the high tax some of these command and have to put head gaskets on it.

I have also seen some with around 250K+ miles. They are nearly 10K less in price as a result.

I won't be driving it all the time, But I also want to make sure I am not buying someone else's problem.

1. Should I be concerned with high milage trucks? 200-250K range?

2. What kind of Mechanical Repairs should I expect in the 100-150K mileage range?

3. Carfax only states so much so I know I have to be extra cautious. Most of the trucks are 1 or 2 owner trucks. Should I be concerned with possible hand held tuners on some of these trucks?

4. Other than pulling a Tune Is there a way I can visually see if a truck been modified like an EGR delete Or if a Blocker plate was added?


Thanks In advance for any help you can provide to a newbie.

 

[Rodwerx]

A 4x4 with 150k+ is going to need a total front suspension rebuild if it is stock original, with A-arm bushings.

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[indiana_jones]

EGR delete will be easily visible, at least on an LBZ, that's all I have experience in. Make sure you look for cats if you need em. Holes in the consoles and dash show you where a programmer could have been or maybe a plow control. Some stuff to look for. I got my truck used, 3rd or 4th owner. I overpaid, and it had some mods that I should have thought twice about but didn't. I've had to fix a few things but I sure love it. With these trucks one day it is cursing, the next you wanna kiss it. Just make sure you get your priorities straight as far as uses, I REALLY wish I had a crew cab instead of extended.

 

[1FastBrick]

I am looking for towing so Definitely Crew Cab. I will consider extended cabs but they need to have a long bed. I am in CA so must have everything to Pass all the inspections.

I know the GMT 800 Platform Very well on these trucks. I work on the 1500 Series regularly and currently have 3 of them.

I just don't have any diesel or alison experience. Never needed anything this heavy duty before now.

It's been easy to find the used and abused ones. The frames have all the coating worn off or the underneath is all caked in mud. I am trying to stay away from trucks with Lift kits and stereos too. Both can be a real nightmare.

The thing I noticed is alot of them have dirty coolant tanks. I am worried about head gaskets down the road.

I have read up on these a little but I wanted to get some first hand experience So I know what to expect.

I think a water pump will be the first thing I do if it hasn't already been done. Other than that, adress all the fluids and filters with brand new so I am 100% sure on those and I can keep my own records.

 

[TheBac]

What years are you looking at? I recommend 06/07 LBZ or 08/10 LMM (deleted) depending on the body style you like.

All the same stuff go bad on these trucks as on the 1/2 tons. Front hubs, steering components, fuel/brake lines, Tcase pump rub, worn out drivers seat, etc.... You know what to look for based on your experience.

Check the backside of the rear tires/brake discs for fluid....that'll mean rear axle seals.

 

[DirtcheapLB7]

A 4x4 with 150k+ is going to need a total front suspension rebuild if it is stock original, with A-arm bushings.

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I would definitely agree with this statement. I got mine with 227k, right off the bat the passenger wheel hub was bad, but driveable. I put about 2k miles on it when the hub blew out on me. However I didn't have to do a total front end rebuild until 260K, at which point I upgraded everything including steering box, upper and lower ball joints, tie rods (inner and outer), both hubs, idler arm, pitman arm and now feels like a brand new truck. Depending on what may be wrong, go wrong, or you just want to change to comfort yourself that is definitely a good time. while I was at it I went ahead and changed my power steering pump, and painted my frame and got everything clean from where my steering box had leaked on everything. With all that being said, now having 270k on my truck (knock on wood) all ive ever done was replace all the fluids and and keep it maintained and it has yet to leave me stranded. However im still waiting but shes been good to me and I think she will continue to be that way as long as I keep her well maintained. I would also take into consideration the transmission. Although the Allison is a decently strong transmission over most, once a programmer is on that can change. not all tunes are transmission friendly so definitely if it has a programmer test drive it and feel for any major slipping, rough shifts etc. Im fairly new to the diesel life as well so all my info just comes from my own experience with one. Another thing you can do for piece of mind is take it either to a dealer, or trusted shop and have them do an inspection. Before I bought my truck I had the dealer do a full 110 point inspection done, noting some of the issues that were noticeable that I overlooked or didn't know about.

 

[1FastBrick]

What years are you looking at? I recommend 06/07 LBZ or 08/10 LMM (deleted) depending on the body style you like.

All the same stuff go bad on these trucks as on the 1/2 tons. Front hubs, steering components, fuel/brake lines, Tcase pump rub, worn out drivers seat, etc.... You know what to look for based on your experience.

Check the backside of the rear tires/brake discs for fluid....that'll mean rear axle seals.

06-07 LBZ. I am considering an LYY 06 I looked at but it was 2wd.

I hate the interior in the 07.5- up truck interiors and some of the other little quirks with them.

I have never had to do a wheel bearing on my own trucks, knock on wood. Or ever get into the suspension for worn parts.

I forgot about the seals on the floaters. Thanks! :thumb:

Only reason I am looking at dealers is because I need to finance it right now.

 

[Rodwerx]

Well if the truck has some miles on it and your planning on putting a water pump in it. Then I would get one from Merchant. And replace the harmonic balancer, ATI is good lite one.

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[1FastBrick]

I am considering one truck with 260K that is fully loaded with a sunroof. Only because there asking 15,975. It's a 3500 CC/LB SRW with a CST lift on it. I can see 1 of the rear shocks is leaking and possibly the hydro boost unit or the master is leaking.

I really don't want a lifted truck but that's not a cheap lift kit... I could always lower it back to stock and recoup some money on that stuff and the wheels and tires.

 

[1FastBrick]

Well if the truck has some miles on it and your planning on putting a water pump in it. Then I would get one from Merchant. And replace the harmonic balancer, ATI is good lite one.

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Are the stock harmonic balancers known to fail? Just curious if its worth replacing with the ATI at the moment or getting a stock replacement.

I am still researching who sale's what.

I have seen some pumps with the impeller welded on.

 

[1FastBrick]

TheBac - I think I have the interior stuff covered as far as spare parts go.

I Also have EFI Live from doing the gas stuff.

I am Not looking to blow things apart either. Just clean a few things up and adjust small settings.

I Have Jake's old twin turbo project truck If I need to go fast. Although I need to work on it so it can go fast...

 

[Awenta]

Leave the balancer. And a Danville pinned is the best water pump option.


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[1FastBrick]

Leave the balancer. And a Danville pinned is the best water pump option.


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Thanks! I will definitely look into it.


All this stuff is good Info for me.

I don't want to buy a truck because it has this or that. I want one that's not going to eat me alive in repairs due to lack of maintenance or neglect on someone else's part.

I also don't want to put junk replacement parts on either. They usually cost much more when you have to buy better parts the second time around. :thumb:

 

[1FastBrick]

So I am guessing as long as it's not leaking any where critical, it's ok to consider high mileage trucks?

Were talking a nearly 10K price difference between say 100-150K Vs. 250-300K milage range.

Almost everything is listed about 1000 over KBB suggested MSRP. I walk when they tell me there isn't much negotiation room Or try to sale me on the Unicorn story. I get it but still it's not the only one in the area. I will drive for a good deal.

 

[Rodwerx]

Are the stock harmonic balancers known to fail? Just curious if its worth replacing with the ATI at the moment or getting a stock replacement.

I am still researching who sale's what.

I have seen some pumps with the impeller welded on.

The balancers can go bad, it's the volcanizing(rubber). A welded pump means probably never needing to change again.
You have to pull balancer to change pump.

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[indiana_jones]

Just personal preference, but I would never buy a vehicle that had over 200,000 miles, diesel or not unless it was a fun vehicle only. So much can go wrong that is only ? miles away. I got my LBZ with 135,000 and I'm at almost 170,000. I've had to do some hefty work to it. I can't imagine what needs doing on a truck North of 250,000 that is on a dealer's lot. And $16,000 for a truck with that mileage? I haven't shopped for a truck in years, but that sounds really steep. Is that Commiefornia pricing?

 

[oscyjack]

Almost any vehicle for sale at a dealer with 100k+ miles will need something. Major or minor, who knows. But fixing the stuff we nit-pick would leave the dealer with no margins.

I can find you a truck but you'd have to come to MA to do the deal Currently searching for a buddy as well whos torn between the 6.0 and the 6.6

 

[c20elephant]

Are the stock harmonic balancers known to fail? Just curious if its worth replacing with the ATI at the moment or getting a stock replacement.

I am still researching who sale's what.

I have seen some pumps with the impeller welded on.

Leave the balancer. And a Danville pinned is the best water pump option.


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You won't know when they fail until the rubber part slips and deteriorates etc. Me, if and when the time comes for the water pump I will consider replacing the harmonic damper. If you saw the rubber isolator around the carrier bearing for the driveshaft on my truck at 37,000 miles in 2013 you would considering replacing it.

The end of life for all rubber parts for these trucks is here (2006 and older), you should see the leaf spring bushings on my truck, they're almost flat and need to be replaced soon....

FWIW if you replace the engine balancer inspect the one at the pinion shaft on the differential...

 

[joshd472]

16k for a truck with that many miles is way to steep IMO. I would look around some more. I'm from the Gulf Coast and 01-08 models around going for 15k-20k around here with 100k miles.
I paid 5k for an lly ecsb with 250k miles and had to put about 2k worth of work into it.

 

[1FastBrick]

The upside to this Comie area is usually no rust. All my trucks still have their shitty wax coating and its still soft. No rust so to speak. and not full of dried out dirt either.

One of the many downsides is We have a large market and that's why the prices are so high.


What's the consensus on the dirty coolant tanks?

Obviously a lack of maintenance, But the LBZ engine are not really known for head gasket issues in stock form are they? I Plan on fluids and a pump any way and a Tank is easy to change. Honestly, I probally wont drive it too much. I will DD the 1500. This will be More for long trips and towing duties.