I want to participate in the sled pulls around my area and really don't have a clue on what I need to add to the truck. Also tips on pulling technique would be great also. Thanks guys.
Need Help getting ready for Sled Pulls
- Thread starter NastyNate
- Start date
Dont have any tips as i am about to get into it to ... but i do know one of the only safety things i needed for our local rules are drive shaft hoops . i am not going to build a weight bar till i decide if i like it . i am going to run sand bags for weight my first time . suck we will have to pull in the higher classes . you will have alot better luck than i will but it should be fun anyhow .
Traction bars, spring clamps, suspension stops if u can, a very good hitch, weight bar, maybe a e-locker.... It all depends on how far you wanna go with it....
That is the only bitch about twins is you'll have to run the Mod class where in most cases those trucks are setup pretty sweet. But you'll for sure have plenty of power in the reserve though
You'll need a cage probably, probably traction bars, good tires, drive shaft loops, the others will chime in
You'll need a cage probably, probably traction bars, good tires, drive shaft loops, the others will chime in
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No cage needed Nick!
If you just want to get your feet wet, Show up in Ceres on the 25th and I'll help you all I can! The pulling area is really soft and easy on the truck (see avatar). The twins automaticly put you in the Extream Diesel Class, but your motor is built so you should be in good shape.
If you decide you like it, Your going to need bump stop's between your axle and frame. A weight bar with about 500-800lb of weight. Spring clamps, driveline shields, Kill switch on the rear of the truck, 2.5lb extinguisher, Helmet. And a few other things.
If you just want to get your feet wet, Show up in Ceres on the 25th and I'll help you all I can! The pulling area is really soft and easy on the truck (see avatar). The twins automaticly put you in the Extream Diesel Class, but your motor is built so you should be in good shape.
If you decide you like it, Your going to need bump stop's between your axle and frame. A weight bar with about 500-800lb of weight. Spring clamps, driveline shields, Kill switch on the rear of the truck, 2.5lb extinguisher, Helmet. And a few other things.
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If you do traction bars you dont need spring clamps. For pulling you want a long bar.
Lower the T bars down and if you dont have sleeves get some. If you have the factory centerlink and no braces strap it or get some braces.
You may need a regulation 3x3.75" pulling loop. Depends who you run with. Hitch height will most likely be limited to 26" and thats where you want to be.
A weight bar if its allowed is a good thing, our trucks are light.
Blocking the suspension as solid as allowed is a good idea too.
A decent new all terrain tire or half wore mud terrain will put the power down.
An e-locker will help.
Driveshaft loops, cross bolts, kill switch and a stack are good safety things to have.
With the power you have you should be able to hit 4th. Once you get some heat built up on the line roll into it quickly and once it hits 4,000RPM peg 4th then hold on.
Basically just keep it pinned, if anything clunks or sounds weird keep it pinned and worry about fixing it later.
best other advice i can give you is NEVER HIT THE BRAKEs. your bumper/box will thank you.
o and always watch the flag guys. Do whatever they tell you even if you dont think it is right unless it is unsafe.
Lower the T bars down and if you dont have sleeves get some. If you have the factory centerlink and no braces strap it or get some braces.
You may need a regulation 3x3.75" pulling loop. Depends who you run with. Hitch height will most likely be limited to 26" and thats where you want to be.
A weight bar if its allowed is a good thing, our trucks are light.
Blocking the suspension as solid as allowed is a good idea too.
A decent new all terrain tire or half wore mud terrain will put the power down.
An e-locker will help.
Driveshaft loops, cross bolts, kill switch and a stack are good safety things to have.
With the power you have you should be able to hit 4th. Once you get some heat built up on the line roll into it quickly and once it hits 4,000RPM peg 4th then hold on.
Basically just keep it pinned, if anything clunks or sounds weird keep it pinned and worry about fixing it later.
best other advice i can give you is NEVER HIT THE BRAKEs. your bumper/box will thank you.
o and always watch the flag guys. Do whatever they tell you even if you dont think it is right unless it is unsafe.
cage??? Only in big tractors, no truck classes even NTPA are required to have cages especially 4x4s, they dont roll.
You will also probably need an SFI jacket and helmet as well as fire extinguiser.
I assume you already have sleeves and a centerlink or braces but it's not in your sig.
Extended rear bump-stops to what the rules allow.
Traction Bars
A beefy hitch
E-locker is a plus
Weight rack and suitcase weights if you want to get serious
Tires depend on the ground you are pulling on. ATs typically do better on harder surfaces, while MTs and even half worn boggers do well on "sloppier" tracks. Interco STS tires seem to do pretty well on just about anything.
The rest will likely be determined by the rules where you are pulling - it varies drastically org to org - but can include U-joint shatter gaurds, D-shaft loops, intake air shut-offs, cross bolts in the downpipe, exhuast pointing up, ect, ect.
Extended rear bump-stops to what the rules allow.
Traction Bars
A beefy hitch
E-locker is a plus
Weight rack and suitcase weights if you want to get serious
Tires depend on the ground you are pulling on. ATs typically do better on harder surfaces, while MTs and even half worn boggers do well on "sloppier" tracks. Interco STS tires seem to do pretty well on just about anything.
The rest will likely be determined by the rules where you are pulling - it varies drastically org to org - but can include U-joint shatter gaurds, D-shaft loops, intake air shut-offs, cross bolts in the downpipe, exhuast pointing up, ect, ect.
EXTREME DIESEL 4x4 TRUCK RULES
8000 lbs.
1. Hitch height to be no more than 26 inches at point of hook before, during and after pull and no closer than 36% of the wheel base to the center point of the rear end. Hitch must be rigid in all directions and solidly mounted. Pulling point can be no more than 1½ inch from back edge of hitching device. No clevis, chains or cables allowed in hitching device. Hitch must be attached to the frame. Hitch to be made of at least 1 inch square stock, or 1 1/8 inch round stock with a 3 inch diameter hole. Hitch must be mounted horizontal.
2. Rigid rear suspension is acceptable; air bags are permitted so long as 26-inch hitch height is not exceeded when inflated. Air bags must be disconnected.
3. Front weights may not extend more than 60 inches from the centerline of the front axle. WEIGHT LIMIT OF 8000 pounds not to be exceeded.
4. Minimum of 2-½ lb. Fire extinguisher must be within reach of driver.
5. Seatbelts, helmets and fire suits are required.
6. Bell housing blankets or shields and drive shaft loops are required.
Automatic transmissions must have full-length safety blankets.
7. Exhaust shall exit the vehicle straight up or straight down. Cross bolts of minimum 3/8 inch must be in exhaust system. Turbo guillotine is strongly recommended.
8. Diesel fuel, propane, nitrous and water alcohol are allowed fuels.
All tanks must be securely mounted in bed of truck.
9. Two turbo charges allowed – Any make and size.
10. Vehicle must be equipped with a kill switch. Kill switch to be located at the rear bumper within six inches of the hitch and have ring of at least a two-inch diameter.
11. Vehicle/engine combination must be available from a vehicle manufacturer. No tube chassis will be allowed
8000 lbs.
1. Hitch height to be no more than 26 inches at point of hook before, during and after pull and no closer than 36% of the wheel base to the center point of the rear end. Hitch must be rigid in all directions and solidly mounted. Pulling point can be no more than 1½ inch from back edge of hitching device. No clevis, chains or cables allowed in hitching device. Hitch must be attached to the frame. Hitch to be made of at least 1 inch square stock, or 1 1/8 inch round stock with a 3 inch diameter hole. Hitch must be mounted horizontal.
2. Rigid rear suspension is acceptable; air bags are permitted so long as 26-inch hitch height is not exceeded when inflated. Air bags must be disconnected.
3. Front weights may not extend more than 60 inches from the centerline of the front axle. WEIGHT LIMIT OF 8000 pounds not to be exceeded.
4. Minimum of 2-½ lb. Fire extinguisher must be within reach of driver.
5. Seatbelts, helmets and fire suits are required.
6. Bell housing blankets or shields and drive shaft loops are required.
Automatic transmissions must have full-length safety blankets.
7. Exhaust shall exit the vehicle straight up or straight down. Cross bolts of minimum 3/8 inch must be in exhaust system. Turbo guillotine is strongly recommended.
8. Diesel fuel, propane, nitrous and water alcohol are allowed fuels.
All tanks must be securely mounted in bed of truck.
9. Two turbo charges allowed – Any make and size.
10. Vehicle must be equipped with a kill switch. Kill switch to be located at the rear bumper within six inches of the hitch and have ring of at least a two-inch diameter.
11. Vehicle/engine combination must be available from a vehicle manufacturer. No tube chassis will be allowed
And that is why twins are not the end all solution for many guys. The only class around here that is worth running in is the 2.8 class (not enough trucks and/or money in anything else) and running twins would bump me out of that. I want to be able to daily drive with good throttle response, tow heavy, do well racing, and pull in a 2.8 class so a 3.0 VVT that I will bush down to a 2.8 for pulling is what I am going with - we'll see how it fares in all 4 arenas. If it wasn't for pulling I would have no doubt been putting on twins.
go to the Ceres pull on the 25th. clamp your rear springs, lower your t bars, get some tie rod sleeves, and if you can block the rear end rigid. you will also need to build or buy a hitch. After your hooked on pulling go wild.
Never on a 4x4 puller doesnt matter if its diesel or a full out blown KB hemi, doesnt matter if its BSTPA or NTPA. There are no roll cage rules for 4x4 trucks or even 2wd trucks for that matter including t-buckets.
No truck classes need roll cages.
Nearly all tractor classes do need roll bars however once you get into anything above stock brush pulling, and full out roll cages once you get beyond hot farm.
same rules for our area as well. If you can get enough PSI in them they can work. But ive seen a lot of trucks go hopping down the track with them.