My kit isn't the base triple kit. Its the race triple kit over the factory IHI. Its a test kit that Trent wanted to experiment with and see how the atmoshperic chargers would spool with the stocker.
My turn for a motor build thread
- Thread starter duramax hd
- Start date
My kit isn't the base triple kit. Its the race triple kit over the factory IHI. Its a test kit that Trent wanted to experiment with and see how the atmoshperic chargers would spool with the stocker.
That's cool that you found a good deal on a built motor. Although down the road I'd like to tackle building my own motor at some point, I'm sure that I would (and you did in this case) save a lot of time, money, aggravation, by finding one already built! It's a tough call for sure.
The size of the atmospheric is something Trent is keeping :secret: But I can tell you the test is/was pretty successful. I mean they did put a quick hurting on the rods though :baby: so it was making some decent power. The spool was intense to say the least, wicked fast. Trent was pretty happy with the results, and im pretty sure there are some videos of spoolup flaoting around on here. I have a stock cp3 and injectors fueling them, but it didnt seem to matter. Im very excited to see how more fuel will react with them
Believe me man, I really didnt have plans to do it this way. I really wanted to build the motor myself, but getting into pricing, and trying to stick to a budget would have been an issue. I would have never been able to do half the things that this built motor I bought had done just due to $. I was very gunshy to buy someone eleses build, but considering it has a few miles on it, and talked to the builder/machinist and knowing no corners were cut puts my mind at ease. I went back and forth with the seller for 3 weeks, called everyone that could get advice, and went from there. But the time, money thing came into play, and having something turn key with all the bells and whistles is what got me
Not in yet buddy :hug:. The motor is half torn down and has to get all powder coated up.
I need some input/advise on what could cause this from everyone. When I picked the motor up, the charger was off the motor as it wasn't part of the deal, but the Y-bridge was still on. When I got home, I got to taking it apart for powder coating and came across this. Got the Y-bridge off, and theres a soot residue that looks like something you'd find on the exhaust side of the head. I immediately got on the phone with the seller, and he told me that when he put his danville charger on at the beginning of this year, he had a bad oil drain leak and the charger must have sucked some of the oil in? He said he pulled it about 7-8 times before he fixed it. He also informed me he ran no intake when he pulled it and just ran the charger open. The concern is that this doesnt look like oil on there. It looks like soot and smeels like soot. If it was oil, it would have to make its way all the way through the intercooler before it would make it to the Y-bridge and into the intake runners/heads. I'm a litle nervous about this, so if anyone has seen something like this, please shed some light.
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I dont think its PCV related. I did however talk to Trent this morning and ran this by him. One of the first questions he asked is if there was a hood stack on the truck....and there was. I guess I got my answer :baby:. And now thinking about it, there was a crack on the manifold where the egt gauge was tapped so exhaust could have been getting sucked in under the hood from that as well. So I'm going to clean it up best I can, and just run it.
Just wanted to update this thread with some build pics as I have nothing better to do at work right now.
My buddy took my heads to the machine shop to get checked out and make sure everything is ok and replace the few leaking guides. Injectors are at Exergy to get cleaned and balanced/flow tested. My buddy Andrew sold me some Kodiak manifold and uppipes he got off a memeber on here that will be used, and merchant mounts showed up yesterday. Tigged my waterpump at work. Everything for the motor is getting powder coated this weekend. Got pretty bored looking at this thing and not having parts so I painted everything up. Can't thank my buddies thus far for helping out :hug:
As soon as the heads and injectors are back its going to be thrash to get it running. Getting excited now :happy2:
Pics:
My buddy took my heads to the machine shop to get checked out and make sure everything is ok and replace the few leaking guides. Injectors are at Exergy to get cleaned and balanced/flow tested. My buddy Andrew sold me some Kodiak manifold and uppipes he got off a memeber on here that will be used, and merchant mounts showed up yesterday. Tigged my waterpump at work. Everything for the motor is getting powder coated this weekend. Got pretty bored looking at this thing and not having parts so I painted everything up. Can't thank my buddies thus far for helping out :hug:
As soon as the heads and injectors are back its going to be thrash to get it running. Getting excited now :happy2:
Pics:
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kris, just a suggestion, but maybe drill for a hardened pin or key in addition to tig'ing the end of the shaft. Travis has a good thread on what he has tried and what actually worked.
Tim, ill have to dig up the old thread and check it out. I remember the thread though. I thought the consensus was just tig'ing short of going electric or Burkhards new pump. What's done to your pump?
i have an electric pump, drilled tstats, 32 psi cap
but i know quite a few guys who have had just tig'd pumps fail jsut as quick as any other
but i know quite a few guys who have had just tig'd pumps fail jsut as quick as any other
He has an electric pump.
My water pump has a slight slight drip that I noticed last time I was under the truck. I went with one of Tony's new pumps, it hasnt arrived yet though.
Plans for a build changed a little. Picking up a fully built motor this saturday. Deal was to good to pass up. I was EXTREMELY gunshy about buying a used built motor, but talked to a few of the experts and they set my mind at ease. The seller even gave me the builders/machine shops contact info and had a long conversation about it with him. Pretty sure its going to be pretty solid. The bad is that I had to use my motor as a bargaining tool as I couldn't come up to the sellers asking price so hes going to part it out to make up for the difference in price. So I wont get to see the carnage first hand. I did ask for a few of the bent/broken rods back though.
Specs on motor:
Bored .40 over and balanced. No torque plate hone though
New water pump/oil pump
Carrillo's
Mahle Race Cast Pistons
ARP Main/head studs
Clevite bearings
Socal 3388 cam
Socal Springs and retainers
Ported heads
100% overs
PPE dual Fuelers
Going this weekend to pic the motor up
Pics of teardown:
Why no tq plate hone? and did you key the cam? If you don't have a DP gage I would put one on there before you start messing around with that IHI and that much fuel
X2, tig'in alone won't hold. We drill and pin it, so far so good. Been awhile since failure, knock on wood.
I think a lot with the water pump is how you drive it, rev it when it is cold (so Tsat isn't ready to open) and you shear it off. I never go above 2800 RPM until it is up to operating temp and my stock one was ok. BUT I now have a TIGed pump in there, and if it breaks would put a pined and tiged pump in. But maybe I'm lucky
The shop that did the motor didnt have a tq plate when this motor was done. I talked to some that say it isnt a big deal, and some say its risky. I guess Im taking the risk as short of pulling the motor down and starting from scratch its what I have to work with. I will definitely put a DP gauge in there. The IHI wont be in there long im pretty sure but I know its playing with fire.
Mark,Tim, I'll be taking the pump to get it pinned now. I read through enough of the old threads and saw that its what a lot are doing to get them to stop spinning and if this is what is working for you guys, Ill give it shot. Thanks for the advice :hug: