My Build Has Started!
- Thread starter LBZ
- Start date
So what causes a balance rate to slowly creep up on just one hole? I've saw it as high as +6 then revved it up and it dropped to its normal 2. Just checked it before I shut down for the night and it was at 1.8 then over a min or two it crept up to 2.4.
Went back to the tune I had this afternoon after the back and forth with James about the timing and dropped my speed by 3-4mph and mileage may have improved a little.
I really wish I could have afforded to go with some good new/reman exergy 45's instead of extrude honed on my old bodies but it wasn't in the cards.
Also wish I could remember how to tune my stuff, such as it was, with the help I had from the neens and Josh H it managed to run good. I never could figure out how to use the calculator. It just never made sense to me so I just SOTP tuned lol.
As for the build I was told it was pretty mellow when it came to the machining. Everything was already pretty square on the torque plate hone, and bore. The balancing took the most work and they needed to run an LML balancer on the lml crank which was 60 grams lighter than the lbz one and worked better. As far as actual specs, i haven't got those but I will enquire. I don't believe the final assembly and ptw was that much different from stock though. I'm betting the injectors, tuning, and not being fully broke in combined are my mileage issue sources.
It only has 1000 miles on it now, and although it has developed a slight haze out the PCV vent that wasn't there till after a couple hundred miles into this trip I don't have any oil coming out of the hose-unlike my stock engine that dripped oil all the time. Something to worry about? I dunno. I guess maybe it's loosening up a bit?
Went back to the tune I had this afternoon after the back and forth with James about the timing and dropped my speed by 3-4mph and mileage may have improved a little.
I really wish I could have afforded to go with some good new/reman exergy 45's instead of extrude honed on my old bodies but it wasn't in the cards.
Also wish I could remember how to tune my stuff, such as it was, with the help I had from the neens and Josh H it managed to run good. I never could figure out how to use the calculator. It just never made sense to me so I just SOTP tuned lol.
As for the build I was told it was pretty mellow when it came to the machining. Everything was already pretty square on the torque plate hone, and bore. The balancing took the most work and they needed to run an LML balancer on the lml crank which was 60 grams lighter than the lbz one and worked better. As far as actual specs, i haven't got those but I will enquire. I don't believe the final assembly and ptw was that much different from stock though. I'm betting the injectors, tuning, and not being fully broke in combined are my mileage issue sources.
It only has 1000 miles on it now, and although it has developed a slight haze out the PCV vent that wasn't there till after a couple hundred miles into this trip I don't have any oil coming out of the hose-unlike my stock engine that dripped oil all the time. Something to worry about? I dunno. I guess maybe it's loosening up a bit?
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When you put your hand over the PCV vent how strong does it feel? After I did mine I got a small puff and a little of a gray haze after 1000-1500 miles and hasn't gotten worse.
Did the injectors go back into the same hole they came out of? Was the Bal rate that high before the build? Mine slightly went higher after my build but went back to where they were after about 2000 miles.
Did the injectors go back into the same hole they came out of? Was the Bal rate that high before the build? Mine slightly went higher after my build but went back to where they were after about 2000 miles.
remember, you swapped to synthetic already. its slicker than normal oil so you may have increased blow by some from swapping to that.
in your lastest tune, you have more timing at a lower MM3 than what you were cruising at before, so you may see more timing/better mpg at a slow speed. plus the fact its less wind resistance and all that jazz.
yeah that injector setup isnt exactly optimal and i cant give you much of an answer on the raising balance rate. you would have to swap injectors around to see if it follows that injector or if it might be something else. its all speculation as the logs and tuning looks pretty good.
it wont hurt to pull PW back like Simon suggested. when i tried it, all that happened was the truck started upping MM3 in the same cruise area so it was already using the least amount of fuel to keep speed.
keep playing with the timing, boost and fuel some. increase one at a time till you go too far and back off a bit. id keep adding timing till you hit the knock point and back off 2*. then mess with fuel pressure though 20k at your cruise is pretty good. 21-22k might be better though. then move your boost around and see if you notice anything better, 56% vane position is still kinda high so you might be able to drop some more out of it and still keep EGTs decent while towing.
i had 3 years of tweaking into my original tow tune before i felt i maxed it out and needed to change hard parts for better mpg or driveability. wont take me near as long to do again from what i learned through all that, hence what im telling ya now.
in your lastest tune, you have more timing at a lower MM3 than what you were cruising at before, so you may see more timing/better mpg at a slow speed. plus the fact its less wind resistance and all that jazz.
yeah that injector setup isnt exactly optimal and i cant give you much of an answer on the raising balance rate. you would have to swap injectors around to see if it follows that injector or if it might be something else. its all speculation as the logs and tuning looks pretty good.
it wont hurt to pull PW back like Simon suggested. when i tried it, all that happened was the truck started upping MM3 in the same cruise area so it was already using the least amount of fuel to keep speed.
keep playing with the timing, boost and fuel some. increase one at a time till you go too far and back off a bit. id keep adding timing till you hit the knock point and back off 2*. then mess with fuel pressure though 20k at your cruise is pretty good. 21-22k might be better though. then move your boost around and see if you notice anything better, 56% vane position is still kinda high so you might be able to drop some more out of it and still keep EGTs decent while towing.
i had 3 years of tweaking into my original tow tune before i felt i maxed it out and needed to change hard parts for better mpg or driveability. wont take me near as long to do again from what i learned through all that, hence what im telling ya now.
Thanks James.
Cruising at 5 psi and 900 egt at 65 mph. Timing is around 9.5, 7-800 pw + the larger inj so whatever that equals. Fuel pressure around 100.
Thing is I have no smoke at all. The odd slight puff more from the post injection being turned off than anything I believe. If I needed to pull pw, wouldn't I be smoking?
Cruising at 5 psi and 900 egt at 65 mph. Timing is around 9.5, 7-800 pw + the larger inj so whatever that equals. Fuel pressure around 100.
Thing is I have no smoke at all. The odd slight puff more from the post injection being turned off than anything I believe. If I needed to pull pw, wouldn't I be smoking?
heres how i look at PW. the truck is going to change MM3 demand to keep the truck at the speed you want to go. Now that means your PW will change as well as PW and MM3 correlate until you change their values. the truck doesnt just pick an MM3 for the RPM your at and say "hope this works out" lol. So essentially, it should be picking the best MM3/PW needed for your cruise speed without over fueling. But this based on many different factors like boost pressure, timing, baro, coolant temp, rail pressure/temp, ect. So if any of those change or dont work right, MM3/PW wont be optimal. So i dont believe changing your pulse will do much for you. obviously in a perfect world, it wouldnt affect MPG. That said, what i believe Simon is suggesting is more for throttle control. if the pedal is touchy from the increased fuel 45% overs are giving, your cruise control will be touchy. this means you may overshoot or under shoot desired speed and waste some fuel. dropping the PW will help smooth that out some.
meh, they are not bad once you learn them. just another table/s to mess with though
