Maybe this will help someone

[LBZ]

Air in a Kennedy pump will kill them its in the instructions. So take that into thought as to where your filters are going to be located. Like in the stock location air wouldn't get back to them like it would if the filter is right by the pumps.

I never prime my fuel system neither other then when I had it open for a few week working on the truck. Then I pressurized the fuel tank with a compressor.

Never read that in my instructions. Pitched them promptly after opening the box lol. I probably ran my Kennedy dry for up to an hr many times in the 5 years I had it and it still pumped out the tank. Guess I got lucky.

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[cstephens93]

Air in a Kennedy pump will kill them its in the instructions. So take that into thought as to where your filters are going to be located. Like in the stock location air wouldn't get back to them like it would if the filter is right by the pumps.

I never prime my fuel system neither other then when I had it open for a few week working on the truck. Then I pressurized the fuel tank with a compressor.

I emailed Kennedy and explained that I was in fact running HIS twin kit and wanted to fully replace the factory fuel filter with Nicktanes filter head and run a CAT filter.

He at first said I need to rebuild it (which obviously i told him in the initial email that i have rebuilt it multiple times)

He said I would need a hand pump to prime it....not sure what to do.

 

[LBZ]

Well like I said. 2xx xxx km and I never once used the primer on my truck with a single Kennedy. Just opened the bleeder.

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[JimmyMac]

So a couple weeks ago I get into my truck fire it up, warm it, go to pull away, and stall! Truck turns off and will now crank but wont fire. No engine codes, nothing. Due to the amount of great info here, I jump on the forum and start searching. First thing I read was check prime in fuel. So I got down to my truck, open the bleeder screw press the bulb a couple times and diesel is spilling out right away, and it seems to be without air. Tighten the bleeder back up and try to start, nothing! I was a little skeptical of the bleeder screw when tightening down because it wouldnt bottom out and seemed to be seemed to be slipping in the threads a little. Tried depressing the primer bulb with the screw back in and no air or fuel was coming out and the primer bulb was getting stiff fast. Went out on a limb and bought a bleeder screw being skeptical about its integrity. Primed the system a couple more times put the new one it, first crank of the key, fired up! Those screws are garbage at best. I would hate to be stranded on a trip due to a stupid plastic piece like that so I will be buying an extra one. There was no work done on the truck for months, so how the screw went bad with the truck just sitting there is mind blowing to me. So if you guys ever think that screw might still be good and have symptoms like mine just replace that POS and see if it helps you out. I think it was less than $3 at the stealership.

Peace!


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You are the man

Had the exact same symptoms, finally gave up and towed it to a shop. After reading your post, I went out and bought the part ($16 vrs. $3) and asked the mechanic to give it a try. Fixed the problem - who would have thought. Thanks for the clue.


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[TeaBagger2006]

My cp3 loves me....been pulling fuel through the cat filter and the air dog filters since my airdog died several months ago. If my filter head ever cracks it's getting deleted and I'll run a line directly from the lift pump to the cp3.lbz injectors never go out.

 

[DAVe3283]

My cp3 loves me....been pulling fuel through the cat filter and the air dog filters since my airdog died several months ago. If my filter head ever cracks it's getting deleted and I'll run a line directly from the lift pump to the cp3.lbz injectors never go out.

I deleted my filter head like 5 years ago, and I got 60k on a set of injectors, pulled them out, stuck them in my brother's truck, and put another 40k on them. Sold the truck, last I heard they are still going. I am 100% convinced the stock filter is redundant with a good lift pump & filter combo.

That being said, the AirDog is expensive, so replacing the factory filter head with the Nicktane mount and a cheaper lift pump might be a better choice? I do know I've never had any problems priming my system with the AirDog, and I've run the tank dry more than once...

 

[cstephens93]

I deleted my filter head like 5 years ago, and I got 60k on a set of injectors, pulled them out, stuck them in my brother's truck, and put another 40k on them. Sold the truck, last I heard they are still going. I am 100% convinced the stock filter is redundant with a good lift pump & filter combo.

That being said, the AirDog is expensive, so replacing the factory filter head with the Nicktane mount and a cheaper lift pump might be a better choice? I do know I've never had any problems priming my system with the AirDog, and I've run the tank dry more than once...

Right.

Sounds like there's literally no way to know about the nicktane head and Kennedy pump for sure, without trying it since everyone who uses the nicktane is running an Airdog or FASS

 

[DURAMXD]

lbz injectors never go out.

Not correct.

First, LBZ injectors have high return rate issues on high mileage units.

Second, any common rail injector (regardless of Chevy, Dodge, Ford, etc) is going to wear out and need replaced over time. Even with good filtration. Bad filtration just means you'll be replacing them sooner.

 

[CarolinaHD]

Right.

Sounds like there's literally no way to know about the nicktane head and Kennedy pump for sure, without trying it since everyone who uses the nicktane is running an Airdog or FASS

You'll for sure need a priming pump. I deleted my factory filter head and had Kennedy pumps and had to blow compress air in the filler neck to get it primed.. I put the filter head back on and just lived with it.

 

[cstephens93]

You'll for sure need a priming pump. I deleted my factory filter head and had Kennedy pumps and had to blow compress air in the filler neck to get it primed.. I put the filter head back on and just lived with it.

Thanks for the reply.

This is a solid answer that sucks to hear lol

Either deal with it or buy an Airdog

 

[CarolinaHD]

Thanks for the reply.

This is a solid answer that sucks to hear lol

Either deal with it or buy an Airdog

Yup, just trying to save someone else from being stranded somewhere without an air compressor.

 

[LBZ]

Just to add I still was running the stock filter and head. Never had to rebuild it although it was ready for it when the truck got parked.
5 years on the engine and a year pumping out the slip tank and it was still working when the truck quit.

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[JoshH]

Josh does that billet nicktane head come with a mounting bracket or how does it mount?

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It bolts right up to the factory bracket on the valve cover. Just remove the two bolts holding the factory filter head on and bolt the Nictane filter head in its place.

 

[LBZ]

Ok. Hopefully I still have it the stocker somewhere.

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[cstephens93]

Well after messing with my filter head a few times and cleaning it with brake cleaner, it looked like it stopped leaking for a day.

But today, I popped the hood and saw some fuel in the little valley type area near the bleeder screw. It looks like the plunger/primer is where its leaking but im not completely sure.

I bought a dorman rebuild kit that I may try in a day or so,

is there anyway to put the truck under load at park (basically step on the gas) and watch to see if the plunger leaks?

 

[cstephens93]

Also...could this be a cracked filter house or filter head? Kennedy swears that the housing doesnt actually crack and that its always the o rings

 

[BrandonLLY]

I would start with the o-rings considering the cost. If it still leaks after that, maybe look into the cost of a new head altogether. Wonder what one would cost.


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[cstephens93]

Anywhere from 100-500 dollars depending on whos selling them lol

 

[BrandonLLY]

Installed my nicktane adapter and donaldson filter last friday. Installed new o-rings and been test driving for any leaks. Havent seen any. Removed the check ball and spring inside the head per nicktane instructions. My truck used to lope idle sometime at peak running temps, thats gone now!


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[Dozerboy]

If they don't crack I don't know what they do, but the new seals don't always fix them. I rebuilt mine twice. Once with a cheap Ebay kit then with a good kit from a vendor. Still leaked. It was out of the plunger just like yours. I cleaned the crap out of it and looked for cracks never found one. I gave up and got a new head with a filter for $100 should of done that to start. I think the fuel was getting past the apposing seals. Maybe the primer housing swells....