Info: Major internal damage from lifted cups
- Thread starter TrentNell
- Start date
Wow how did I miss this one?? Sorry to hear Trent. Hopefully it all gets sorted this winter-I want to see some low low 9's out of that girl!!
I think Pat said it best though - GM fixed the problem about 7 years ago. If you are pushing the limits of a first gen design, then I think it would be best to just swap everything over to an LBZ or LMM and eliminate the issue all together. Don't bother with the LLY's, they are too slow!
:coolspot:
Other than that something like what Simon was talking about - a hold-down that holds both sides of the injector down, one with two studs, would probably work too. Maybe even using shims to keep the hold-down square to the block may not be a bad idea either......
Baker Lock is definetly worth trying as well! I remember trying to get plug valves and chokes apart with that stuff on the threads. Heat and Beat is the only way!!
I think Pat said it best though - GM fixed the problem about 7 years ago. If you are pushing the limits of a first gen design, then I think it would be best to just swap everything over to an LBZ or LMM and eliminate the issue all together. Don't bother with the LLY's, they are too slow!
:coolspot: Other than that something like what Simon was talking about - a hold-down that holds both sides of the injector down, one with two studs, would probably work too. Maybe even using shims to keep the hold-down square to the block may not be a bad idea either......
Baker Lock is definetly worth trying as well! I remember trying to get plug valves and chokes apart with that stuff on the threads. Heat and Beat is the only way!!
Think someone should talk to Buck, they did something totally different with their LB7 heads with the cups, but I'm not sure if they are still running the LB7 or not. Most guys going for the big HP have switched to the LBZ. Not only for the heads but the RPM as well.
Hey Trent, im brinning a head and cup into a company monday that specializes in keeping things together (ie spark plugs in heads, locks, thread retainers ect) im curious to see what they come up with.
(ie spark plugs in heads, locks, thread retainers ect) im curious to see what they come up with.
I heard the same - aluminum cups welded in. Not sure if it is true but that is the route we have been considering for some time now. We have them drawn up now. Just waiting to hear back on pricing for machining them.
Hey Trent, im brinning a head and cup into a company monday that specializes in keeping things together
Their suggestion was to make cups that are threaded on the outside, and use a spanner wrench to install, along with making a fixture using the head bolt mounts to tap the head.
Or just simply switch to an LLY top end and have no more issues with injector cups or pulling valve covers to swap injectors.
Or just simply switch to an LLY top end and have no more issues with injector cups or pulling valve covers to swap injectors.
x2
That is what we have in the works for winter time , custom made stainless cups , and using a CNC to thread the head.
def still a consideration , if it wasn't for already having full ported heads , and all new bodies and tips LB7 style i would be making the switch , but to expensive as of right now to start over .Or just simply switch to an LLY top end and have no more issues with injector cups or pulling valve covers to swap injectors.
yea i get you on the to expensive to start over part Trent, but i really hope you get it figured out. i know you will take the best route for you. cant wait to see your truck back on the track
Well see how it holds up the rest of the year , truck should be up and going again next week and maybe to the track for weekend on the edge if everything comes together right :thumb:
who is making aluminum cups? what grade aluminum are people using? i pushed one out on my 3.0 truck, this winter i might look into getting some welded in.
Contact David at DTS(vendor here). They are made, and presently being tested.