LML Twins and Opinions

[FROGMAN524]

Everything is running well except for the stupid P003A code popping up daily. Also, tracking shows the new Danville turbo and hot side Intercooler pipe will both be delivered here next Monday so hopefully I can get them in the following weekend before Memorial Day. Any tips or tricks to installing the valley turbo?


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[c5fourj]

Lots of patience and an assortment of extensions and swivels!

 

[Dm23]

I’ll be doing the Danville 65 this Saturday along with the cp3. So I’ll give you some feed back on how the turbo install goes. Should be pretty easy honestly

 

[FROGMAN524]

So will I need to remove the y bridge or can I leave that in? Up pipe bolts can be removed just from the pedestal correct?


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[Dm23]

The y bridge will have to come out. and yah just the upper 6 bolts need to come out. I would put some anti seize on the bolts when you put them back in for the new turbo.

 

[Chevy1925]

y-bridge can stay but the horn going into the bridge may need to be removed or if you have the upgraded 1 piece bridge, you may or may not need to remove it. Have not played with one yet to see if there is enough room to pull the turbo out from under the cowl and not hit the bridge. i would remove the up pipe bolts at the turbo and manifold and atleast pull them back some (not necessarily remove them), you need to be able to access the turbo drain on top of the mid plate that is under the up pipes. pulling the up pipes/moving them back makes it easier to drop the new turbo in too.

15mm wobbly socket with a 12" extension will make life easier on getting the turbo mounting bolts out. you can get the 2 most forward ones going between the compressor and exhaust housing just to the side of center cartridge. it will make sense when you get in there.

pull the oil feed line from the top of the turbo and use a bungy to move off to the side. trying to get to the bottom bolt is damn near impossible.

 

[M.A.M.]

I just got my LML compounds finished up, you’ll be fine leaving the Y-bridge in there if it’s a two piece and you can remove the horn. It’s tight between the cowl and the y-bridge, but it’s doable. Getting the oil drain up off of the studs was the worst part for me, but it was still easier than taking off the whole drives side up-pipe, IMO. I ordered one of Ricks one piece up-pipe gaskets, made life a lot easier being able to start the bottom bolt on either up-pipe then just dropping it in from the top.


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[FROGMAN524]

y-bridge can stay but the horn going into the bridge may need to be removed or if you have the upgraded 1 piece bridge, you may or may not need to remove it. Have not played with one yet to see if there is enough room to pull the turbo out from under the cowl and not hit the bridge. i would remove the up pipe bolts at the turbo and manifold and atleast pull them back some (not necessarily remove them), you need to be able to access the turbo drain on top of the mid plate that is under the up pipes. pulling the up pipes/moving them back makes it easier to drop the new turbo in too.

15mm wobbly socket with a 12" extension will make life easier on getting the turbo mounting bolts out. you can get the 2 most forward ones going between the compressor and exhaust housing just to the side of center cartridge. it will make sense when you get in there.

pull the oil feed line from the top of the turbo and use a bungy to move off to the side. trying to get to the bottom bolt is damn near impossible.

Sounds like the time of my life I can’t wait!


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[Chevy1925]

a 6mm socket fits the inverted torx that GM uses for the ends of its smaller studs. so once you pull the nuts, you can pull the studs. it will make things easier.

its not fun... even in my truck when i pulled the ihi for a rebuild it sucked ass. what really pissed me off was when an up pipe bolt snapped off in the turbo exhaust housing.

with as clean and pretty the things are under your hood, take your time at this and lay some blankets over shit and even tape one to the underside of the cowl so you dont scratch it coming out. top side creeper will make your life so much nicer up there. second pair of hands pulling the turbo out and putting the new one in will be VERY appreciated.

 

[snowman22]

with as clean and pretty the things are under your hood, take your time at this and lay some blankets over shit and even tape one to the underside of the cowl so you dont scratch it coming out. top side creeper will make your life so much nicer up there. second pair of hands pulling the turbo out and putting the new one in will be VERY appreciated.

This ^^^

If I'm going to spend any time laying over the top of the motor I usually look on craigslist or drive around on trash day and find an old couch someone is throwing away and use the cushions to lay on. Lay a few shipping blankets down and then use the cushion to keep from crushing your ribs all day.

 

[FROGMAN524]

Yeah I’ve got a one piece y bridge from WCFab and by the looks of everything I will be pulling that out. Also the oil feed kit from them seems to feed from the valley not the drivers side like Danville told me I needed so I hope that works.

I might go to harbor freight and buy a top side creeper and then sell it when I’m done.


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[Dm23]

ill keep you posted about the turbo installation, and post some pictures on this thread if you don't mind?
3 of us are working on it tomorrow. should be fun :thumb:

 

[Chevy1925]

Yeah I’ve got a one piece y bridge from WCFab and by the looks of everything I will be pulling that out. Also the oil feed kit from them seems to feed from the valley not the drivers side like Danville told me I needed so I hope that works.

I might go to harbor freight and buy a top side creeper and then sell it when I’m done.


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you get a better oil supply from the driverside and it will be fresher/cleaner so to speak. when this engine lets go or before you put the new one in, id have the turbo checked out and then run an oil feed line from the driver side. i wouldnt be too concerned right now because i doubt you will be pushing as hard as you can till the built motor comes in.

or just suck it up now and order all you need separately. -3 line will be plenty iirc.

EDIT: forgot that LML's use a 15mm head turbo mount bolts. Not 17mm heads

 

[FROGMAN524]

How many hours do you think I should plan to do this job?


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[Chevy1925]

How many hours do you think I should plan to do this job?


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Well hows your skill set and does your old man have the ultimate set of tools? :roflmao:

if all went right, take me a day start to finish. even with a few hiccups. Worse case for you taking your time to keep things nice, beer breaks every so often, working sun up to sun down. Weekend at MOST. thats assuming you dont break something the parts stores wont have. up pipe bolts ring a bell there. otherwise rest shouldnt be an issue. being that the bolts just came out recently, rusting/galling shouldnt be an issue if assembled correctly at the shop you had do the work.

be very ginger on the y-bridge bolts/nuts when putting them back in. you dont want to strip those or pull the studs.

 

[FROGMAN524]

Well hows your skill set and does your old man have the ultimate set of tools? :roflmao:



if all went right, take me a day start to finish. even with a few hiccups. Worse case for you taking your time to keep things nice, beer breaks every so often, working sun up to sun down. Weekend at MOST. thats assuming you dont break something the parts stores wont have. up pipe bolts ring a bell there. otherwise rest shouldnt be an issue. being that the bolts just came out recently, rusting/galling shouldnt be an issue if assembled correctly at the shop you had do the work.



be very ginger on the y-bridge bolts/nuts when putting them back in. you dont want to strip those or pull the studs.

Thanks for the advice. I’ve got most of the tools needed if not all and I’ve done a twin install before but never replaced the valley turbo. I’ve also installed lift kits, brake kits, exhaust systems, sound systems and a multitude of other automotive things so it’s just about patience really which I lack.


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[JoshH]

pull the oil feed line from the top of the turbo and use a bungy to move off to the side. trying to get to the bottom bolt is damn near impossible.

It really isn't that bad on the LML. They moved the location of the oil supply from under the turbo to behind it to the left.

 

[FROGMAN524]

Ok never mind the new hot side pipe came today and the driver side feed line was in the box. Turbo will be here Monday.


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[Josh154]

You gonna start ripping it apart this weekend? It’s really not too bad, I’ve done a few valley turbos on my lmm. I think the 15+ is roomer and easier to work on then my lmm was

 

[Dm23]

It’s a pain in the ass for us lol. First time taking the turbo out and haven’t even got to the cp3 yet