Thats what i was really curious about. Thanks im going to have them swap it out for the ss version then
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kryptonite race centerlink with heims
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Im thinking of dmaxstore krypt fell setup. I dd my truck but i do beat on it in the des quite often. I only hear about drag racing what about offroad? Still a good idea? Also your saying with that setup ill loose turning radius? Trying to get the low down before i buy this setup.
I did. I was running the kryptonite and Moog problem solver arms, along with cognito braces. I didn't like the braces much, so when I installed the High Roller Idler I yanked the braces. That setup on a max effort stock trans tune let me beat the crap out of it with no complaints!
Once I did the trans and turbo I rolled the kryptonite centerlink on my first launch. It was ugly. Lol.
I have a video of what the idler pin looked like after. Fortunately it took one for the team and there was no additional damage. Added the dhd brace and lower control arm bracket and she's solid again.
Thats crazy. Ive done 12psi 4wd launches with stock stuff and just sleeves and the brace its all worn out crap tooI checked - that was a zero psi 4wd launch. It was after Mark's in person tune. Prior to that I wasn't having trouble. Lol. Big smile
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at least it drove home after that! Lol. Bend beats snap! The kryptonite rolled right up - that pin shows it. I got under there and jaw dropped. It's was all rolled up but still steering, lol. I put a big boy wrench on the hex bar to see if I could unroll or snap it off and it laughed at me. Serious forces at work there!
It will hold up very well. I run a setup very similar to dmax store (it's what they copied from) and it does well. Being that they use larger tie rod ends than I, it would be even better suited
I was the rescue rig in Glamis for my dads broke car. We were way back in the middle of those dunes in my pic. Lots of throttle at 600hp in 4wd and I yanked her out. Towed my 5th wheel home no issue lol
James, what about on the street did you loose turning radius? Ive seen another thread where a guy changed the tierod end to hiems and double sheared the spindle. Thinking i might copy that.
I didn't loose any turning radius but the geometry is so f**k on this lift kit, I probably won't notice it till I redesign some things and fix it.
Now on other trucks I have installed this on, the last 1/2 turn to 3/4 turn of the steering is where you notice the "tire scrubbing". Low back space wheels or rims that increase scrub radius makes the lack of Ackerman amplify as well.
I always recommend the kryptonite kit that uses the inner tie rod behind the centerlink. It has half the leverage the stock centerlink has and will hold up very well anything can break like shown in this thread. I've bent centerlink, fabtech tie rods, idler arm support, and so on. It comes down to keeping angles happy and staying on top of worn parts. I keep my cv and steering angles almost flat at ride height. Ball joints and steering parts last a long time now
Now on other trucks I have installed this on, the last 1/2 turn to 3/4 turn of the steering is where you notice the "tire scrubbing". Low back space wheels or rims that increase scrub radius makes the lack of Ackerman amplify as well.
I always recommend the kryptonite kit that uses the inner tie rod behind the centerlink. It has half the leverage the stock centerlink has and will hold up very well anything can break like shown in this thread. I've bent centerlink, fabtech tie rods, idler arm support, and so on. It comes down to keeping angles happy and staying on top of worn parts. I keep my cv and steering angles almost flat at ride height. Ball joints and steering parts last a long time now
you rolled the kryptonite centerlink cause you had a weak link in your steering set up and a hot tuner.
Dude
PM what the truck is set up like now, to include tire size and wheel info, lift ot not and what you want to do with the truck
I will give you some solid set up options to include what steering parts would be good for and or questionable or even a no no..
Save yourself from the guessing game and do it once, do it right.
Learned a thing or tow working the tech line and with the guys in the shop!!
blue kryptonite ------ Looks like supersteer to me
In my post on page 1 I listed it as a Henderson. I bought that before Dmax store was reselling them.
The idler should have held up better with the way that dude talked about how strong they were (original builder) but I'd never run our steering setup without some kind of double sheer setup on atleast one of the arms.
I hate the cognito braces though. They are weak and could be made so much better....
It could be made of unobtanioum and some guys would still bend/break it in single shear. It's half the reason I have not put heim joints at the knuckle end of my truck. I will only do it if it is double sheared, even if I use some Billy bad ass bolts.
Double shearing significantly strengthens a part and does not give it a chance to break in this situation unless another part gives first. Cognito braces are weak but put it with that big idler arm and you will break/bend other parts. You still have leverage with any kit that puts the inner tie rod behind the centerlink. If you don't control the front end rise or have hurt/worn parts or just beat on it with a level front end, your gunna bend that stuff
Lol they work for lots of guys out there but there is a ton of improvement that can be done. No one can though due to the patents. They flexed when used with my stock center link and I still wore idler/pitman arms out in 10k. If you keep steering angles sane, parts tight, and know how to launch the truck, they work well. I'd rather them work for guys leveled and use 4wd off road though.