kryptonite race centerlink with heims

[N2BRK]

Duk - since I have such an early example, what extensive R&D-led developments/improvement have been made since the earliest release?

Mine was too long and needed to be cut down to 36", as it bumped the sway bar end links; Mike sent me some Cognito endlinks and a reduced cost for the larger frame brace for my trouble. But, otherwise based on my eyeball of his site just now, I don't see anything different except using PISK and the other brace that's out as a "race" model.

 

[Harbin_22]

I'm still on PISK with sleeves on oem tie rods. Lowering the truck must be the trick. Launches staright and smooth, all factory parts with 75k miles. PISK and sleeves were installed around 5k miles.

 

[Chevy1925]

I'm still on PISK with sleeves on oem tie rods. Lowering the truck must be the trick. Launches staright and smooth, all factory parts with 75k miles. PISK and sleeves were installed around 5k miles.

It's always always always about angles and a good setup (shocks, wheels, good parts that are not worn and not "trying" to break it). I don't like stock outer tie rods. They are like the c2 hub of an Allison. Some guys make them work under high power and launching but all it takes is that one bad launch/hopping and they will start breaking down and go loose. That said, I still have them due to my steering kit but I keep a spare in the tool box cause I will abuse 4wd off road some times lol

 

[Vsouth]

While my truck currently only weighs 7500lbs in race trim and I do drop the t-bars when racing, the first 3 years of it racing was at 8200lbs on 20" wheels with 305/55/20's. All the street play, the t-bars were not dropped and I was running Mickey Thomson 305/55/20's mtz's. Not exactly light.

 

[Dukcaln]

Duk - since I have such an early example, what extensive R&D-led developments/improvement have been made since the earliest release?

Mine was too long and needed to be cut down to 36", as it bumped the sway bar end links; Mike sent me some Cognito endlinks and a reduced cost for the larger frame brace for my trouble. But, otherwise based on my eyeball of his site just now, I don't see anything different except using PISK and the other brace that's out as a "race" model.

it was a circle of back and forth. In the end, the pisk was determined to be a key part of the kit, as well as the weld in gusset. With out the pisk, too may issues with bent or broken idler/pitmans, front end hop and wabble or pulling from one side to the next. Adding the pisk on a consistent basis, with a idler (death grip or its father supersteer idler) and weld in gusset, the risk of the idler/pitman issues drastically reduced and the wobble and bounce did too and the launches were consistently true. .

For the racer, the complete full kit is best and has the least likely hood of immediate or short term failure of a parts. Angles, tire, wheel combo play a big part too.

I was just trying to point out what could have been the weak link or a factor for your failure. Like some mentioned, sleeves, pisk, stock idler pitman and centerlink, can work for a long time for some... alot is angles, and the rest is luck.

I was launching mine with all stock stuff... then added tie rods and centerlink... got a few passes in and bent the pitman and idler... added new pitman and deathgrip, bent the pitman, added the pisk back and been good ever since (knock on wood)

There is no full proof set up, just a set up than can offer the best chance for fighting failer and offering true launches....

My buddy has 35's.... sleeves, pisk and wont change until he breaks something, he races with 4x4 launches a few passes a year... been good for 3 years... then our mutual buddy did the center link with tie rods to save money, he got about 5 passes in and bang, broken pitman and bent steering box under launch. on a budget, he went with the oem idler pitman again and pisk,,, 2 years and going...

Just the point I am making is, what ever works for someone may not work for others and there is no 100% set up that will last for ever.

I think if you had the pisk at that time, you might of been ok, at least for a while longer and or would have broke something else in the front end, instead of the issue you had, thats all :thumb:

 

[N2BRK]

Oh ok, I was hoping there was real r&d and not adding the same things you'd throw at the OEM centerlink. It sounds like an inadequate design (though a little better than stock) and a bunch of band aids. For the racer it looks like a copy of the old tried and true straight link. Mike's stuff is huge but not innovative. Thanks for explaining.

 

[WVRigrat05]

So I learned today, if you don't buy cheap shit from a parts store your front end can do big kid stuff without falling apart, I wouldn't recommend 20# boosted launches but I can get on mine pretty hard without the front end doing jumping jacks, now lets see if I can get more than 8k miles out of it.

Put some real pitman and idler arms on and ordered some braces, what a difference. That straight centerlink don't mean a thing if it's bolted to junk.

 

[N2BRK]

Your biggest problem is that you're leveled on 35's. That's a lot of angle of the dangle. I remember my first boosted launch when I was leveled - omg I thought I twisted the whole front end, lol. I was on stock centerlink, sleeves, pisk, and Moog problem solver arms.

 

[WVRigrat05]

Oh yeah, I learned that the hard way at TS a couple years ago, I figured since I was only around 500 horsetorques it wouldn't make a shit, I was wrong, 20# boosted launch on a stock turbo didn't help any either, I pretzeld everything.

 

[Wikid]

So I learned today, if you don't buy cheap shit from a parts store your front end can do big kid stuff without falling apart, I wouldn't recommend 20# boosted launches but I can get on mine pretty hard without the front end doing jumping jacks, now lets see if I can get more than 8k miles out of it.

Put some real pitman and idler arms on and ordered some braces, what a difference. That straight centerlink don't mean a thing if it's bolted to junk.

Does anyone make a billet Pitman arm for our trucks?

 

[c5fourj]

May not be billet, but my rare parts pitman arm is holding on like a champ.

 

[Chevy1925]

Does anyone make a billet Pitman arm for our trucks?

no, the closest thing you will find to the "strongest pitman arm out there" is the PPE bolted setup. that is a hell of a pitman arm

 

[N2BRK]

Since we're all still participating here, maybe we can hear some thoughts on this -- I don't like the idea of a Pitman arm brace or giant pitman. It seems like too much to ask the steering side to handle; GM seems to agree in that they made an idler. Also, when my idler bent, my pitman just rolled right up and brought me home anyway and I like that

Am I giving the pitman side not enough credit, or is it a "any port in a storm" since we don't have better right now?

 

[Chevy1925]

no really sure what your asking.

ideally a "ultimate idler arm AND pitman arm" with ticker braces on them would be everything one would need. from that point, the weak point becomes the knuckle attachment at the tie rod and the frame if you were to "try" to break the steering. that would be the best bandaid out there.

the correction for the 2" of factory bumpsteer would also be a huge benefit to drag racers or 4wd launcher on both launch and saving steering parts. a well setup drag truck wouldnt really notice the difference too much but it can help the 60ft.

 

[N2BRK]

I guess what I'm asking you sort of answered. Lol. I'm asking if the pitman side (steering box) should be asked to handle the stresses of holding the centerlink from rolling. I've been of the opinion that it should be left alone to float along and do steering duties only, and leave the idler (or other invention TBD) to control the rolling.

 

[Chevy1925]

I guess what I'm asking you sort of answered. Lol. I'm asking if the pitman side (steering box) should be asked to handle the stresses of holding the centerlink from rolling. I've been of the opinion that it should be left alone to float along and do steering duties only, and leave the idler (or other invention TBD) to control the rolling.

ooohhhh i got ya.

No it should be supporting the centerlink between idler as well. most places do not make majorly upgraded pitman arms for 2 reasons.

1. there are two different keyed/splined boxes (3 or 4)

2. to make the splined end out of something you can weld properly on is not cheap

again, another area the aftermarket should be looking at BUT 90% of the people out there are content with what is already available and it seems to work well.

there are many things id love to come up with and sell. the problem is the copy cats and whores out there that will just change a couple things here and there to sell what you have been selling for a cheaper price and run you out. im not about to do the R&D for them. patents take quite a while to get pushed through and aint cheap, you also damn well better have your bases covered if you do a patent to keep cheaters at bay.

 

[c5fourj]

no, the closest thing you will find to the "strongest pitman arm out there" is the PPE bolted setup. that is a hell of a pitman arm

What makes this pitman arm so strong, compared to everything else?

 

[Chevy1925]

What makes this pitman arm so strong, compared to everything else?

have you not looked at the pics? you have to bend a 7/8" bolt and the bearings inside will allow 0 rotating of the centerlink.

 

[c5fourj]

I know literally know nothing about it. It says its meant to be used with the ppe center link but is it compatible with a stock or even a kryptonite center link.

http://www.pacificp.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=63
This one right?

 

[Chevy1925]

yes that one. you must drill your tapered hole out to a 7/8" hole where the pitman arm normally attaches to the center link.

my only gripe is the stock centerlink becomes the next weakness as i have seen them bend and the stock idler arm support can bend its shaft or prematurely wear out (need to upgrade to a super steer or dmax store setup)