LLY: How much can a stock bottom end LLY take?
- Thread starter BobbyBDirtyMax
- Start date
and to further paints statement, 45* (which is as high as that table goes) is not enough for my LLY(at high rpm) which has made 300+ passes, and is NOT driven easily on the street, as my DD.
So do you actually see 45 deg on the scanner when you log?. and I agree with you because if you don't start the injection event sooner as rpm goes up the piston is traveling faster you just end up with a huge flame thrower spraying the top of the piston. melted pistons. but big timing and pulse in the lower rpm is where bent rods come from right?
I aim to go no higher than 25*\2500us...... On 100 overs
I agree and mine cleans up just fine there!
Anything that creates high cylinder pressures and negative torque.
So a tight charger or allot of vane position can also do it.
But you got the idea.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19731
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11487
use google or something next time this is common knowledge sir
nice job 'sir', as usual you don't read the whole thread. first link was an injector, and second link the lly piston "had a hairline crack" but was already otherwise destroyed.
Im not saying lly/lb7 pistons cant CRACK, and im not saying LBZ/LMM pistons cant MELT either. it is just more common for LBZ/LMM pistons to craxck.
Yep must be why mine lives with no studs and original gaskets at the 600 hp mark for so long.
bent rods come from torque in low RPM, regardless of timing or pulse duration.
and yes I have no timing limiters, but im hesitant to post about this on the open forum because people learning how to tune will attempt to do it with limited knowledge and break their, well, everythings.
Hopefully the admin here doesn't mind this link to some good technical on timing and cracked pistons.
Or heat soak from big pw and cracked pistons.
It fits the topic so here it is.
http://www.dmaxcentral.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44
Or heat soak from big pw and cracked pistons.
It fits the topic so here it is.
http://www.dmaxcentral.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44
where was that point? I thought we were talking about timing?
you don't think you can bend rods with low timing?
Yeah no doubt. I have thought about bumping timing in the higher rpm but it runs really good the way mine is now. 28 and 3200 pw shifting at 3450. might be a little low on the timing but I don't race or anything just rail on it on the way home on a straight stretch, (i'm sure the residents hate me lol)
low timing is great for cyl psi, just keep an eye on the EGTs with larger tunes.
When you heat a piece of metal and cool it down over and over what happens to it? Hardening.
Now what happens when you heat it even hotter and continually cool it down? Hardening to a greater extent.
Hard metallic compounds crack.
Now what happens when you heat it even hotter and continually cool it down? Hardening to a greater extent.
Hard metallic compounds crack.
they arent too bad the most i see is 1300deg now with all the profab stuff and danville turbo. my tow tune won't even go over 1050deg with a 9k trailer behind me at 70 pulling a hill in OD. love it for towing. if i turn the switch up two clicks it will climb to 1250deg though.
It is not unheard of for stock charger trucks to peg an 1800* gauge on handheld programmers...and most people start with handhelds on stock trucks.
yeah no kidding I used to be able to hit 1350 with a cat back and a afe intake and no tuner. now its at that temp with double the ponies.
