I bet you can't break it without an lbz pump.
Lots of worn out LB7 pump trucks prove otherwise.
I bet you can't break it without an lbz pump.
how did you get main studs in with out pulling the engine?
I cant believe it took 22 posts to ask this question.
60 psi... Your valve springs limit you
Valve seat psi is higher then 60psi. There are several stock valve spring trucks making 60+ without issues.
Timing... Really? I've run as much as 38* at 3600 rpm. My engines still running well. You should stop regurgitating what you have read on the internet.
OP if you're tuning it you are going to want to tune out as much torque as possible. In my experience a detorqued tune and sensible street driving is feel comfortable pushing it to 650hp but anymore than that is going to be a gamble
Lots of worn out LB7 pump trucks prove otherwise.
With bad tuning they just don't last.
I don't think anyone with any sense here would say 38 degrees of timing is a safe level.
I would suggest limiting maximum timing to 30 degrees just to be cautious.
Lots of worn out LB7 pump trucks prove otherwise.
Yeah.......me bein one of them
With bad tuning they just don't last.
Go ahead and limit to a flat 30, have fun melting pistons.
I have never melted a piston and won't.
And it would be more likely that they crack with big pw before they melt.
He said lb7/lly not lbz/lmm steve.:roflmao:
To the op:
To help keep you safe I would recomend staying below 3000 pulse and 30 degrees of timing.
And it would be more likely that they crack with big pw before they melt.
He said lb7/lly not lbz/lmm steve.