same here, its all brian or steve ran at the track till bri bri went full retard and built a race truck
.Finally Hitting The Track
- Thread starter Houser04lly
- Start date
same here, its all brian or steve ran at the track till bri bri went full retard and built a race truck
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:spit:same here, its all brian or steve ran at the track till bri bri went full retard and built a race truck
Ya my buddy is running the exact wheel and tire combo but on a SC/LB 6 liter and his best 60 was with the Tires at 40 lowering pressure made it worse for him .. but I also thought lowering my keys all th way downI didn't get an alignment and I might have bBen riding on the inside of the tires and that could have def been hurting me I'm sure .
lowering it down would cause the tires to toe out which isnt necessarily a bad thing. it will help in a couple ways.
1. there is always a little give in a steering even with the stoutest setup, that give will want to make the tires toe in.
2. when the front end lifts, the tires will toe in
having it aligned when lowered isnt the best idea IMHO. a little bit of toe out will help keep things straight. if its still toeing in bad, you have too much front end lift or your have some worn parts you need to look into. Cognito braces can hide worn parts when you go to check them so keep that in mind if you have them
I am not sure about that truck to be honest there is were a lot of trucks there lol .. wish u could have made it .. thanks a lot for the congrats!
Ya that makes a lot of sense thanks you for the free advice I really appreciate it !
weighed her finally
With me in it weighing about a 150 right now and a steel roll pan,hitch removed ,tailgate removed,spare tire rack removed, 3 leafs,full interior and 305/50/20s on 12 wide wheels she's
6100
With me in it weighing about a 150 right now and a steel roll pan,hitch removed ,tailgate removed,spare tire rack removed, 3 leafs,full interior and 305/50/20s on 12 wide wheels she's
6100
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Those rims are killing you in a few ways:
420s are great for on the street - they get the best traction of any street tire I have run on my truck and are likely the only tire I will run on the street again. But I have not seen anyone cut better 60' times on them than I have done on random worn 265 and 285 ATs on stock rims, and the weight advantage of the lighter tire/rim combo is going to help all the way down the track. I say you either race on PYOs or if you get serious you get a set of Real Wheels and cheater slicks. PYO keep the leverage minimal, they weigh 17 lbs and you a 265 or 285 can easily cut low 1.6 60' times if the rest of the truck is setup decent. The Real Wheels 16x10s that my slicks are on weigh 12.14 lbs and fit 30x14 cheater slicks perfect. I have 6" of BS up front and 5" in the rear to keep them close to even and to minimize the leverage for torque steer. At the DPC I was cutting low 1.6s on 33x12.5 Dune Grapplers on those rims and even when I launched too hard and white smoked all 4 tires it came out straight and wasn't fighting me. I have several more sets of those rims being made as part of a buy-in with Real, even the 16x12s I'm getting for a set of pulling tires only weigh 13.4 lbs.
- Their weight - if I had to guess I would say your tire and rim combo probably weighs 65 lbs per corner compared to about 37 on PYOs with stockish tires. Driven rotating weight makes roughly 8 times the difference of the same static weight being on the vehicle - so 30x4=120 x8=960. Basically you are taking away every weight advantage your light truck has by running such a heavy combo.
- As mentioned they are way too wide for that tire. That tire will sit flattest on a 9.5" wide rim and will do well on a 9-10 wheel. Anything wider and you will be sucking the center of the tread in and riding on the outside - tire pressure will not correct it. Put it this way - drift cars purposely run tires on too wide of a rim to help them break traction more easily and roll the corner of the tread so they can slide sideways easier.
- The offset on them gives your tires more leverage on your steering during torque steer, making the front end fight itself and the tires fight each other, all of which is energy that is not being used to make your truck go forward and hurts your traction.
420s are great for on the street - they get the best traction of any street tire I have run on my truck and are likely the only tire I will run on the street again. But I have not seen anyone cut better 60' times on them than I have done on random worn 265 and 285 ATs on stock rims, and the weight advantage of the lighter tire/rim combo is going to help all the way down the track. I say you either race on PYOs or if you get serious you get a set of Real Wheels and cheater slicks. PYO keep the leverage minimal, they weigh 17 lbs and you a 265 or 285 can easily cut low 1.6 60' times if the rest of the truck is setup decent. The Real Wheels 16x10s that my slicks are on weigh 12.14 lbs and fit 30x14 cheater slicks perfect. I have 6" of BS up front and 5" in the rear to keep them close to even and to minimize the leverage for torque steer. At the DPC I was cutting low 1.6s on 33x12.5 Dune Grapplers on those rims and even when I launched too hard and white smoked all 4 tires it came out straight and wasn't fighting me. I have several more sets of those rims being made as part of a buy-in with Real, even the 16x12s I'm getting for a set of pulling tires only weigh 13.4 lbs.
Agreed also. On my CCSB LBZ stock twin set-up with "E" rated worn out A/T Michelins and PYOs I have cut 1.60 60 times with just spring clamps and proper tire psi.
I highly recommend looking at tire PSI from front to back. Most people look at tire PSI how it is sitting in the pits. This is not how the truck goes down the track.
The old thinking the front is heavier so the front tires need more air does not work if running decent HP because of weight transfer. Have someone video the truck at the different lengths of the track, 60,300,660,etc and see what the tires are doing, then average things. I run close to the same psi from the front to the back, this way I'm not scrubbing speed from the T-Case fighting the front to back ratio difference. There is no perfect answer as every truck weight ratio from the front to back is different. There is ET to gained by looking outside the box at tire pressures.
The 16x10s are $320 per wheel. I have had a lot of guys need slicks, borrow mine and love them, and just never order (direct from Real) because of the lead time on custom rims - that was a big factor in buying in and keeping them on the shelf. I needed a set of 16x12s with 6" of back spacing for 33x12.5 STSs for a set of pulling wheels for the shop and decided to just place a big enough order to buy in and keep them on the shelf from now on.
I did a lot of testing last season on how weight of the tire wheel setup will effect tracks times. Stock pyos and 265 load range E tires weighed in at 63lbs. My 18x9 raceline raptors with 285/65 load range E toyo at2 weigh in at 89lbs. Stock pyos with 275/55 M&H drag radials weigh in at 37lbs. Truck went 12.5@108, 12.7@107, and 12.2@111 all on the same tune. Wheel/tire weight in my experience can effect your track times greatly.