Soo re installing my injector cups and I have one that refuses to seat.. Its very close but not flush yet. I've Tried pressing it in w the injector retaining bolt, however at the torque spec, (37 ftlbs) even the holder isnt flush and I don't want to force it more with it being an aluminum head.. The question now is wtf do I do.. I guess I need to pull it and get a new cup however I have no puller and It will be tom before I can get one. By then the thread locker will be cured. Its the #7 injector cup. I'm not sure if its just not pressing straight or what. The accumulator is in the way a little to get a 100% straight hit, but I managed to make it work on the #8 cup with the steering shaft in the way.. Any advice? I'm at my whits ends here...
F@#$n injector cup..
- Thread starter SAVAGE77
- Start date
If the cup is not square in the head you can catch the bottom of the cup on the seat area in the head.This will make an imperfection in the seat area. It won't go all the way down then. Will have to pull cup back out. And resurface seat area. You can start to thread a bolt in the cup to pull it back out.
Make your own cup puller:
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31371&highlight=concrete+anchor
Dress the seat and try again.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31371&highlight=concrete+anchor
Dress the seat and try again.
I really hope you didn't f up the sealing surface of the cup to the head by "beating the piss out of it" cause the only fix is a new head or thread in injector cups (head still has to come off)
There's a lot of things you can beat the piss out of when working on these trucks and it's all good, injector cups are not one of those things however.
Would it be smart to use a small propane torch to heat the thread locker up? I've got a new cup and more new seals. My next try is to remove the accumulator and impact the concrete anchor in the cup.. Having trouble getting it tight enough, it keeps slipping.
I sorta used an excessive amount.. At this point even the thermal expansion of the metal may be enough to be my friend. With out having a way other than pliers to hold the bolt still I feel as though I'm not spreading the anchor enough. Shooting in the dark sucks..
yup like brent said, head is shot. there is no fixing that.
this isnt a "kick ya when your down" comment so please dont take it that way but at no point should the cups be hammered in or pressed in. if they dont click right in, you have a problem and it should be taken back out.
if you buy a used head, i would suggest having it decked to ensure flatness and no blown headgaskets, id also make sure you get a pic of every single cup sealing surface on the head to make sure it is free of any pitting, gouges or problems. if its not nice and smooth all the way around, it will cause you problems. Luckily, on this site 99% of the guys are true honest people so buying from here shouldnt be as worry some for a used head
I appreciate honesty even when it's brutal. I can't believe that happened like that.. Guess I'll have new heads on both sides after all.. The head has been torqued so the bolts will have to be replaced I'm sure.. What about the new gasket? It hasn't even been heat cycled yet. I havn't seen any heads for sale available here anyway.. I'll prob have to do another Dirty Hooker Diesel head on the pass side too. Expensive when you can't get any of the core money back...
