Duramax in a Half Shell

[TheBac]

Whats really surprising is the frame has typical Michigan surface rust but its overall in NICE shape. Cab still has to go up two levels so I can roll the frame out of the garage and clean it off. Id think this weekend I'll make a little cart to hold the cab so I can wheel it around and tuck it into a corner. I have enough scrap lumber lying around to do it. Just have to buy 4 casters. I just dont like it being up that high and not 100% rock steady.

 

[TheBac]

Sorry guys, nothing new to report other than I found the 99 gasser fuse box is the same as the 2001 duramax box. All I should have to do is swap in some higher-amp fuses in 4 spaces. The truck/ECM wiring harness should take care of any wire routing issues.

 

[Kutchey2]

Are you 4 linking the truck?

 

[TheBac]

Are you 4 linking the truck?

Id like to, but it'll probably be the last thing I do. The truck will have to be put back together to figure out the front/back weights and CoG so I can accurately measure any suspension components. You can throw the OEM 1500 figures out the window due to the heavier Dmax drivetrain.

 

[TheBac]

I know I said I was going to stay away from a SF axle, but I found a 14b 9.5 SF out of a 2001 Silverado 2500 for $200, with brakes, and it will bolt right in.
Trouble is, its a pegleg.
What are some opinions on the lockers available for open diffs, like a Lockright or Powertrax? That seems to be the easiest way to fix the problem.

 

[JD Dave]

Nice project, looks like quite the undertaking. :thumb:

 

[turbhoe]

i'd be interested in seeing how much your final weight is and how that 9.5 stacks up. thats one thing i'm still up in the air about when i do my build. staying six lug would be very nice, but i'm worried about breaking the 9.5 on a good boosted launch. breaking a SF axle sucks when the axle tries to leave its home. lucky for me, my 8.6 has disc brakes and kept the axle in the housing.

 

[TheBac]

I think you'll be done with your swap long before I am. This is going to take me a while to get done.

All I am going to do is plate the frame and add one new crossmember so I can move the shock mounts. As for the 9.5, it may hold, it may not. Guess Im going to find out. Talked to Merchant, and he's going to help me set up the carrier/gears.

 

[TheBac]

Ran into a snag. I had assumed (yeah...that word ) that GM standardized all its engine mount bracket assemblies throughout all the models/weights of the trucks. It made sense, as thats been GMs way in the past with vehicles in the same class. But I come to find thats not the case between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton in the GMT800 platform.

The Dmax PS brackets are shorter than the gassers, and the Dmax DS bracket is mounted at an angle relative to the frame, not on a straight line like the gasser. I thought it might be a case of 4x4 to 2wd brackets being different, but researching further tells me that all Dmax brackets are the same, at least on the 01-02 trucks. V8 gasser brackets may be different, but Im not sure if the pass side V8 gasser bracket is offset forward like the Dmax one has to be.
I have to get a PM to TDIguy to ask him how he did his Tahoe, as he's the only person I know of to put a Dmax in a 1/2 ton so far, and they like to use all OEM parts.

Maybe I will have to fab up a passenger bracket using the DMax unit?
Maybe hope the drivers side gasser bracket ends up in the same location as the DMax one, even though the mount points are different?

Maybe just buy that complete 4.8L motor I found and just leave it? I did find a complete 2002 LB7 rolling chassis locally, with motor/trans...literally everything to do this swap...but the guy wants $4900 for it. WTF is it with people thinking these motors/drivetrains are made of gold?

 

[JoshH]

Check with DuraBurb.

 

[TheBac]

I did. They use the V8 gasser mounts and makes adapter plates for the engine mounts. Thought it may be something like that.

 

[MACKIN]

Not for nothing More Power (Jim Biglie) from the diesel page put a Duramax in a half ton pick up years ago. Might want to look into some info there. Maybe you have I don't recall if its been mentioned here

He has a book magazine something here. Only listing as if you look see he mentions the motor mounts. Might help you with some issues for your build for a few bucks. For ninety bucks? You'll have to decide that but it might be worth it

http://www.thedieselpage.com/duramaxconversions.htm

 

[JoshH]

His isn't the same body style. I doubt it would be much help to Tom.

 

[TheBac]

It would still give me ideas. The OBS trucks are more similar to ours underhood than you'd think. Using a piece of plate on the engine to move the mount forward/back should work.

 

[MACKIN]

His isn't the same body style. I doubt it would be much help to Tom.

Don't know I just remembered the write up and thought I would in case it might help, supply a link.

Then I seen the price of the 65 page brochure laser printed color photo illustrations and thought it was a bit steep but decided let Tom make his choice on it's worthiness. I feel it might be valuable in a sense . Is it body style or model year that makes the difference?

 

[Subman]

Might email Jim and ask him for just the motor mount section for a reduced price. I've seen that truck, truely a work of art.:thumb: Might also talk to John Kennedy, he and Jim use to be good friends, he might have something to add. Good luck.

 

[lts1ow]

Motor plate!

 

[TheBac]

Might email Jim and ask him for just the motor mount section for a reduced price. I've seen that truck, truely a work of art.:thumb: Might also talk to John Kennedy, he and Jim use to be good friends, he might have something to add. Good luck.

Thanks Ken. I think thats what Josh was getting at. John added some insight earlier in this thread, but yes, I would definitely call him if I came across something I could not reason out. This is a minor detail relative to everything else.

I remember on the Olds diesels way back when, the PS motor mount was bolted to two adapter rods that then bolted where the gasser mounts went on the block. They had to do that to clear the starter. This would be the same principle.

Im just not having any luck finding drivetrains for reasonable costs (<$3000). Hell, Id rather buy a blown motor and rebuild it than pay what some people think these things are worth with 100,000+ miles on them.

 

[Turbo Performance]

I may have missed it Tom but what year engine are you looking for? I've been coming across complete engines locally for <$1000. They usually have a headgasket or bearing issue but usually no major damage. Even with shipping you would be money ahead.

 

[TheBac]

An LLY or LBZ would be great to find. Id repair it and put that engine in BBT. If I could find a complete LB7 (with injectors) for $1000, Id be a happy camper because then I could slap a set of rods and studs in it (ala Trent) for the Brick.