Oh hell...you're right. I just looked up tire heights, and a 12.0x16 nostalgia slick is roughly the same height as a 265/75/16 tire. So 3.73s would be fine.
Duramax in a Half Shell
- Thread starter TheBac
- Start date
Oh hell...you're right. I just looked up tire heights, and a 12.0x16 nostalgia slick is roughly the same height as a 265/75/16 tire. So 3.73s would be fine.
That is the exact tire I'm running on the van. I've been pretty happy with them. My best 60' has been a 1.69 with a bunch of low 1.7s. With some more time getting the suspension properly setup, I think I can shave a tenth off of that. Maybe more, but I don't know for sure.
The diff ratio in the van is 3.73, but the 1st gear ratio is much higher than the Allison (2.48 vs 3.10). I haven't felt like I need a lot more gear. In fact, with the 1st gear ratio in the Allison, you would probably be able to get away with a 3.42 rear diff ratio.
My research led me to the 9" Ford with lots of bracing to the housing and a 3.5 ratio. I was figuring deep into the 9's
I stared this project several years back, but my fab guy has been sitting on his thumbs and I'm about pissed off enough that I don't even want to see his face or hear his voice so I'm thinking I'll just sell it all. I'll caution you though it's relatively high dollar stuff from Art Morrison.
P.S. If you are light you don't need 1200HP. Make the power manageable and switchable so you can leave at one level and switch up once underway. This is a concept that is hard for many to grasp as they want to use all the power all the time.
John, I figure if I can keep the new truck around 5000lbs, my current setup should get me into the lower 11s. Add twins to the picture and I may even touch 10s. Granted, times like that will only be possible with good traction, so that is where I will concentrate my efforts. I dont worry about my drivetrain combo, its proven itself to me already. A 14bolt shouldnt be overkill in this application.
Not much new to report. Took the bed off. The frame is in wonderful shape. Started making up my cardboard templates for the boxing metal. Got half my shop cleaned out,too. Oh my GOD am I a freakin packrat! When I get the bench area cleared out the truck can move in and the real fun will begin.
My kids, as usual, came up with a name for the new truck. Since they named both my other trucks, the Big Red Truck (my old 02 Chevy CC/SB) and BBT, I guess they're just keeping tradition alive. :rofl:
It's now "The Flying Brick" :roflmao: The name kinda works since it is red, and hopefully will be pretty quick when its done.
Not much new to report. Took the bed off. The frame is in wonderful shape. Started making up my cardboard templates for the boxing metal. Got half my shop cleaned out,too. Oh my GOD am I a freakin packrat! When I get the bench area cleared out the truck can move in and the real fun will begin.
My kids, as usual, came up with a name for the new truck. Since they named both my other trucks, the Big Red Truck (my old 02 Chevy CC/SB) and BBT, I guess they're just keeping tradition alive. :rofl:
It's now "The Flying Brick" :roflmao: The name kinda works since it is red, and hopefully will be pretty quick when its done.
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Any time you guys want to start sending me money or parts, I would be very appreciative. :roflmao: This is gonna be a slowwww build as money allows.
Its been two years since I first floated the idea....its only been three weeks since I found the truck. Patience grasshoppah...patience. :rofl:
You bring up something Ive wondered about after watching some of those in-truck videos. How does this work? Stock-ish tune for launching, then all-out once you get thru the gears? I cant see switching tunes during shifts....the Alli couldnt be liking that.
Been doing research on rear axles. What Im finding is making my decision to use a 10.5 FF out of a 2500 Truck/Suburban a good one. (Remember, we have to think about the diesel torque here...)
The 9.5 AXN axle is C-clipped, which Id rather not run (esp if I use slicks). Would cost $$ to change that, plus those axles are big money around here.
The 10.5 should be able to handle whatever I throw at it, and as Chris said, parts are cheap and plentiful. Those axles are a dime a dozen around here, plus the bonus of disc brakes on the newer axles.
I could even use an older 6 lug 14 bolt drum-brake axle, and simply move the spring perches and swap over to modern disc brakes. They'd be turned 45*, but work just the same as normal...or add new disc brake mounts set up for the drum brake ends. (not expensive)
Remember, Im on a budget, and it isnt unlimited.
Oh, I also found the pinion snubber I had made a couple years ago will fit a 1500 chassis, too. :roflmao: Who knew?
Trent's 4-link thread is going to come in handy, too.
Temps should be back in the 80s tomorrow, so I may finally be able to get something done.
The 9.5 AXN axle is C-clipped, which Id rather not run (esp if I use slicks). Would cost $$ to change that, plus those axles are big money around here.
The 10.5 should be able to handle whatever I throw at it, and as Chris said, parts are cheap and plentiful. Those axles are a dime a dozen around here, plus the bonus of disc brakes on the newer axles.
I could even use an older 6 lug 14 bolt drum-brake axle, and simply move the spring perches and swap over to modern disc brakes. They'd be turned 45*, but work just the same as normal...or add new disc brake mounts set up for the drum brake ends. (not expensive)
Remember, Im on a budget, and it isnt unlimited.
Oh, I also found the pinion snubber I had made a couple years ago will fit a 1500 chassis, too. :roflmao: Who knew?
Trent's 4-link thread is going to come in handy, too.
Temps should be back in the 80s tomorrow, so I may finally be able to get something done.
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True now that I go back and look. I was thinking of something else when I was typing. Thanks Josh, you are saving me from my own stupidity.
Hmm...4 link would allow larger tires on the rear.
Hmm...4 link would allow larger tires on the rear.
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Finally got the gasser drivetrain out. I honestly dont remember that many electrical/fluid connections on a Duramax. Strange..a diesel easier to remove...who knew?
Cab is almost up far enough to roll the frame out from under. Very slow going so the damn thing doesnt slide and crush someone, mainly ME. :rofl: It'll be about 4 ft in the air when Im done. Thats what you have to do when you're dealing with limited space. Gonna be an SOB to lower it back down accurately. May have to get the GL football team involved.
Thanks to BigDmax05, I now realize I'll need a Duramax hydroboost master cylinder. Not going to have ABS on the truck anyway, so brake lines should be relatively easy to make, not to mention plumbing in an adjustable proportioning valve.
Looking at the rack and pinion, I'll have to make custom lines. No big deal. Treat them just like the LBZ trans line repairs.
Nice thing is, this truck has a P/S cooler on the return side, which will be easy to adapt.
Cab is almost up far enough to roll the frame out from under. Very slow going so the damn thing doesnt slide and crush someone, mainly ME. :rofl: It'll be about 4 ft in the air when Im done. Thats what you have to do when you're dealing with limited space. Gonna be an SOB to lower it back down accurately. May have to get the GL football team involved.
Thanks to BigDmax05, I now realize I'll need a Duramax hydroboost master cylinder. Not going to have ABS on the truck anyway, so brake lines should be relatively easy to make, not to mention plumbing in an adjustable proportioning valve.
Looking at the rack and pinion, I'll have to make custom lines. No big deal. Treat them just like the LBZ trans line repairs.
Nice thing is, this truck has a P/S cooler on the return side, which will be easy to adapt.
