Does 'coupling' degrade?

Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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coker6303 said:
I thought it was the same thing. Isn't how "tight" the converter feels describing couple speed? maybe I used the wrong choice of words, still learning!

You have stall and couple rate. The stall is essential where engagement occurs and coupling could be described as load rate?
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your stall is how high you can rev the motor in gear on the brakes till it starts pushing you through them. (its not an exact measurement but thats the basic idea behind stall).

the coupling ability is how efficent the turbine are inside when under power and load to transfer that power from the motor into the trans. the closer you can get the two turbines to 1:1 ratio, the more efficent it is at that power level. the farther away you are from that number, the more power you loose to the ground.

and thats about as far as my knowledge on that goes. how stall can change its coupling ability or even if it can, i dont know. Im sure mike or ben will set me right if im spewing vulgar info but thats the way ive understood it.:D
 
Burn Down

Burn Down

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Sep 14, 2008
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Chevy1925 said:
your stall is how high you can rev the motor in gear on the brakes till it starts pushing you through them. (its not an exact measurement but thats the basic idea behind stall).

the coupling ability is how efficent the turbine are inside when under power and load to transfer that power from the motor into the trans. the closer you can get the two turbines to 1:1 ratio, the more efficent it is at that power level. the farther away you are from that number, the more power you loose to the ground.

and thats about as far as my knowledge on that goes. how stall can change its coupling ability or even if it can, i dont know. Im sure mike or ben will set me right if im spewing vulgar info but thats the way ive understood it.:D
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Turbine & Stator... No "turbine turbine" unless were in india:D
 
03badmaxxx

03badmaxxx

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duratothemax said:
I have close to 200k miles on my built trans that I put together in late 2005. The trans has never been out of the truck or refreshed since I built it.

It is on its third torque converter though. I had two 1057's, the first one started to loosen up and I sent it back to suncoast to be refreshed. I dont know what they gave me back, but it sure as hell wasnt a real 1057. Yeah it was stamped "1057", but it definitely felt completely different than my first 1057 did when it was new. It drove identical to every 1056 ive driven.

At the time I sent it in to be refreshed, 1057 cores were extremely rare....and although I obviously cant prove it, I cant help but think that they might have taken my 1057 and just threw 1056 guts in it........... :rolleyes:

I have a precision ML in it now.

I'll have Jerry or Ron tomorrow to shed some light on your chit-chat

ben
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LWATSON said:
Ben I dont like to accuse people of doing wrong but I've "heard" that there have been some 57's sent in that returned as restalled 56's. I just sold my used 57 and wanted to send it in to be checked and I was advised not to unless its broke and had no choice.
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i'd like to know who advised this? Rumors are silly. Why not call and hear it straight from the people who actually make/design/build them?

duratothemax said:
ahh ha. Glad im not the only one...I knew I wasnt crazy for thinking/noticing that my "refreshed" 1057 that I got back from suncoast felt nothing like my original 1057... :mad: :rolleyes:

They probably did that thinking that 95% people wouldnt notice the difference (probably mostly true that most wouldnt even be able to tell the difference because most guys with built transmissions dont have a lot of experience and have only driven one kind of aftermarket converter).

But I didnt even drive the thing half a mile before I knew it wasnt a real 1057.
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Tuning/setup plays a big part in how a converter acts and feels but i'm sure you already know this.
 
Mike L.

Mike L.

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03BadMaxxx said:
i'd like to know who advised this? Rumors are silly. Why not call and hear it straight from the people who actually make/design/build them?



Tuning/setup plays a big part in how a converter acts and feels but i'm sure you already know this.
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How many 1057's have you road tested since 2005? I still have the original one built that I ordered for McRat. In fact, Joe Webb and I named it after him. The second one built was installed in my '04 LB7.
Thanks for the tuning tip as we all would be in limbo for the rest of our lives wondering about it.:D
 
LWATSON

LWATSON

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Bad maxxx, correct it is only a rumor that you may not get the same 1057 back that you sent in for refresh. Would you go so far as to say a 1057 purchased today is identical or better than the one I bought years ago when they first came out? If I remember correctly the reason for the high price was the fact it took parts from two cores to build one 1057? If so is this still the case? Also my 1057 has 200k miles on it and still going strong. Its actually goin in a different truck now to be beat on some more. I've heard of newer 57s reversing fins? But the older ones are solid.
 
LWATSON

LWATSON

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SSchmi5519 said:
If I run it in T/H it locks up right away, as well as if I go to WOT, but like Lwatson said if I go 80%-90% I can take the thing to 80mph in 5th on the on-ramp of the freeway without getting lock until I let out of the throttle a little more.

After the replys in this thread, is there any converter this doesn't happen with?
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I did an experiment this morning and I have an idea that may help with this issue. I locked my truck in 4th gear at a stop and accelerated like I normally would when this issue occurs, about 40-50% throttle. I kept the trans in 4th until it passed the speed in which my converter is set to lock about 52 mph. I found the converter locks much easier when you keep the trans from shifting to 5th before lockup. At 40-50% throttle I got lockup and then hit the tapshift to 5th and it felt great.
Im no tuner so I really dont know what needs to be done to keep the trans in 4th without raising shiftpoints. It would be annoying to drive like this all the time. I think you can make adjustments so you get a downshift with less throttle input. My truck will downshift from 6th to 5th with about 15% input, this makes it easier to pass a vehicle at highway speed without blacking out the highway. If you adjusted the 5-4 downshift so it only took about 30-35 % it would seem to me if you were at 40% throttle it the trans would stay in 4th until it reached a higher speed before shifting to 5th which would put your converter locking in 4th instead of blowing through it in 5th. I hope this makes since like I mentioned earlier I'm no tuner, but I know what feels good LOL.
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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03BadMaxxx said:
i'd like to know who advised this? Rumors are silly. Why not call and hear it straight from the people who actually make/design/build them?
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So suncoast would admit the fact that they sent me back something totally different than what I sent them in to get refreshed????

I had one of THE original 1057's From late november 2005.

03BadMaxxx said:
Tuning/setup plays a big part in how a converter acts and feels but i'm sure you already know this.
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yeah.....I know....

Ive been building these transmissions for almost 8 years. I have significant driving experience with probably a dozen or more different aftermarket converters. I know what a "real" 1057 (the original one) is supposed to feel like. I have no idea (and obviously I cant "prove" it, so I guess I should just STFU) what you guys sent me back when I sent my first 1057 in to get refreshed, but it sure as hell was not a real 1057.

ben
 
LWATSON

LWATSON

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I got it Ben and replied. Confirmed the box not working is install error, call me when you get a few and well talk about what direction to go next. Thanks.
 
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