Considering DD'ing 350k mile LB7?

[fl0w3n]

Google Napa 4770 or WIX 24770. It’s a pretty standard thread. Should be able to find them easily, after all that’s what the filter heads are designed for. Kennedy pumps run low psi high volume so standard fuel hose and clamps on a barbed fitting should work just fine. I had considered putting both heads after the pump to make things simpler but the inlet/outlet design messes with that. My plan is to put one head behind the pump with a higher micron filter/water separator to make sure the pump is getting clean fuel, then put a 2 micron CAT or 1 micron Baldwin filter in front of of it so that it pushes the fuel thru and all the way directly to the cp3. I do plan to use a sump on my truck as it will never see hard off roading. I would highly recommend getting the full Kennedy kit with pickup. Easy install, less restriction, peace of mind, and at your mileage and age there’s no telling how your factory pickup is looking inside there.

Air dog will simplify this by leaps and bounds, but I’m partial to the Kennedy design. I see many more airdog/fass pumps failing than Kennedy. Part of this could be because of how many there are out there in comparison, but the Kennedy design in theory shouldn’t ever wear out. No moving parts.

I liked the Kennedy I had on my LBZ, but I didn’t use any filters, just the pump.

I just finally sacked up and pulled the trigger on the 45s, new lines, super sport CP3, and airdog 100. I got a little discount for buying it all at once, and I figure if I apply that towards the airdog it’s only $100 or so more than building my own with the Kennedy setup... but saves me some time by not having to figure it out.

Things are gettin real :woott:

 

[fl0w3n]

Instead of starting a new thread, I figured I’d ask here - if you had to build a motor from scratch and could only use factory parts, what would you make? I think I’ve seen that LBZ rods and LB7 pistons are the “best”. Are all the blocks the same? Which factory heads are the best?

I don’t think I’m ready for that yet, at least I hope not, but eventually I’d think I need to at least re-ring this thing and redo the heads, maybe main bearings. Rear main leaks too.

 

[zakkb787]

You have SACs so I’d build the lb7 with lbz rods and cut lb7 pistons.

 

[Chevy1925]

Lml Rods with delipped new lb7 pistons, lml crank

 

[rickcdewitt]

As far as turbo size it really sucks to fall out of the boost while towing or wheeling.especially taking off or going really slow really heavy. A bigger turbo will just make it worse with the zf.allisons are more forgiving there. When i want more air I'll get a s4?? to twin with.

On the studs and gaskets or not does your truck run below 180ish and then heat up to that level with a load real quick? If so probably needs gaskets.my truck didn't make the hoses hard but it had an obvious leak when the heads came off

I'm a little jealous i was where you are at last year and didn't do enough research to consider sac's or an lly top end.

And a bit of a hijack but did your sb dual have dowel pins to locate the pressure plate to the flywheel? The one i just got is missing them?

 

[fl0w3n]

As far as turbo size it really sucks to fall out of the boost while towing or wheeling.especially taking off or going really slow really heavy. A bigger turbo will just make it worse with the zf.allisons are more forgiving there. When i want more air I'll get a s4?? to twin with.

On the studs and gaskets or not does your truck run below 180ish and then heat up to that level with a load real quick? If so probably needs gaskets.my truck didn't make the hoses hard but it had an obvious leak when the heads came off

I'm a little jealous i was where you are at last year and didn't do enough research to consider sac's or an lly top end.

And a bit of a hijack but did your sb dual have dowel pins to locate the pressure plate to the flywheel? The one i just got is missing them?

That’s a great point. I’d rank wheeling and towing ahead of performance for this truck.

To be honest, I don’t remember about coolant and temp. I’ve only got about 1200 miles on it since I got it, and it’s been sitting for 8 months since then. I’ll have to check when I start driving it again.

I tend to over research stuff, sometimes to a fault

This is the only pic I have, but it’s facing the wrong way. I’m pretty sure those dowels you can see on the pressure plate side we’re also on the flywheel side.

 

[fl0w3n]

So new question, once I get these 45s and the LBZ CP3 in, will it be driveable without tuning? I was planning on stopping by a buddy’s house and doing the tune upload because he’s already got my vin license, but that’s a 200 mile drive.

 

[rickcdewitt]

Thanks for the pic,it looks identical to mine. I'll have to crawl under my truck and see if the pins for the intermediate plate also locate the pressure plate?

I've read here that you can get away with 45's untuned but you should wait to hear from someone who knows more than j@cksh!t

 

[rickcdewitt]

Sitting under my truck right now messing with the clutch.i guess the pressure plate isn't located except by the bolts. It slops around quite bit.I think I'll have words with south bend monday

 

[fl0w3n]

Sitting under my truck right now messing with the clutch.i guess the pressure plate isn't located except by the bolts. It slops around quite bit.I think I'll have words with south bend monday

Now that you say it, yeah I think I only had the bolts locating and holding it. But I don’t recall any slop at all. Once the centering tool was inserted and everything tightened down, I don’t think I had any concern about it moving.

Getting the trans lined back up, that was another story.

Did that part with a friend and on the shop floor instead of a lift, it kicked our ass.

 

[rickcdewitt]

The pressure plate won't move when you tighten it down but it really should be centered around the crankshaft with dowels or shouldered bolts at the least for balance and wear issues.

 

[fl0w3n]

Started tinkering this weekend. I started by trying to finish a few little things from when I did the tcase swap and trans install, like putting the ABS bracket back on ... but that’s easier said than done. Wound up laying on my back for half the day trying to get the damn thing together, and then I kind of mangled the bracket but sorta got it in so I’m calling it good for now.

Went to go start the truck and flip it around in the driveway, and couldn’t get it to start. It ran when I parked it 8 months ago, but this time it just kept cranking endlessly. The batteries had died a couple months ago, so for part of that time the truck sat with dead and disconnected batteries. But now even with strong batteries I got nothing.
Fuel was fine from tank to lines on driver side, and priming the head I hardly saw any air and fuel seemed to flow. I’m guessing injectors are clogged up or CP3 died

Luckily I’m replacing all that, but it’s ass end into the driveway right now and I’d rather have it flipped around. Oh well, I just barely started getting the passenger side torn down.

 

[fl0w3n]

I hope I can remember how it goes back together :rofl:

 

[rickcdewitt]

There were a couple times i was glad i have a parts truck for reference but I'm weird about getting every wire and bracket exactly stock.

Did it start?can vats be an issue with it dead that long?

 

[fl0w3n]

Finally got the CP3 in and just getting to injectors on driver bank now.

None of the cups popped out and I had some serious force pulling the injectors out, is it smart to still pop the cups out and reseal them and re loctite, or if they didn’t come out it’s fine?

It doesn’t look like they lifted, at least not significantly. I’m just worried they maybe broke he seal and lifted 1/32 or something not easily seen.

 

[rickcdewitt]

I used a concrete anchor to get them out since it would be a b!%ch to do it later. Scotchbrite on a screwdriver to get ALL the old sealer off.

 

[zakkb787]

Pull them. You WILL regret it I promise if you don’t.

 

[Chevy1925]

Pull them out. 7/8 lag bolt and a big washer/pry bar will pop them out easy. Get a 12 gauge shot gun barrel brush and the rod, put it in a drill and go to town with a little brake clean to clean the sealing surface on the head. Clean the cup sealing surface up and inspect for pitting.

 

[zakkb787]

You have to use the correct kind of loctite too. I cheaped out and regretted it.

 

[fl0w3n]

Alright, wasn’t sure but thanks for clarifying. Definitely trying to do it right and not regret it later.

Some of the fuel line fittings under the valve cover were almost finger tight, and some of the valve cover bolts the same way. Looks like the last person to do injectors didn’t torque it right

Should I blue loc tite everything going back together?