Considering DD'ing 350k mile LB7?

[fl0w3n]

So skipping the head work (assuming compression check is good), going with SAC00s, a new CP3 or LDS LBZ supersport?, and Kennedy pump with filter and separator while deleting factory head... should I be worried about the existing fuel lines? No telling how much crud is in them, and sealing up the system to the air leaks I’m sure it has and then putting it under pressure... I’d hate to ruin my new CP3 or injectors.

 

[zakkb787]

Put a new filter on the factory head and run it for a while before you delete it. That will ensure the lines are clean before you dump crap into the new parts. Not a pain to change around with everything installed. As far as cp3 I’m not sure if the LDS is new or not but it’ll be perfect for your goals.

 

[fl0w3n]

Put a new filter on the factory head and run it for a while before you delete it. That will ensure the lines are clean before you dump crap into the new parts. Not a pain to change around with everything installed. As far as cp3 I’m not sure if the LDS is new or not but it’ll be perfect for your goals.

Oh that’s a good idea

LDS has a new factory LB7 CP3 for $800 or an LBZ one for an LB7 with an unlisted price...

It’s probably not in the budget this round, but I think I’d eventually need/want to replace the turbo. No idea how many miles are on it. Given my power goals, should I just reman mine or go with something like the 64mm Super Core Kit?

 

[zakkb787]

Lbz pump isn’t far from that and they sell a 63.5 wheel and cover for a good price too

 

[sawmilldmax]

I drive an LB7 daily with 355,000 on it. Ole Whitey and I get along pretty good, I just put a fresh set of Firestones on him today. The last set went 35,000. I'm not afraid to drive it anywhere.

 

[fl0w3n]

Lbz pump isn’t far from that and they sell a 63.5 wheel and cover for a good price too

Does the LBZ pump give me anything other than headroom for more power?

I saw that 63.5 wheel and cover. Is it easy enough to refurbish my old exhaust housing and slap that wheel and cover on? Never done turbo work before.

I drive an LB7 daily with 355,000 on it. Ole Whitey and I get along pretty good, I just put a fresh set of Firestones on him today. The last set went 35,000. I'm not afraid to drive it anywhere.

That’s good to hear! What type of stuff have you done for either preventative maintenance or had to replace from wear?

 

[zakkb787]

I’ve never done it either but seems to be pretty straight forward I believe. As far as the pump it’s not far over stock if anything but it removes the flow restrictions past 3k rpm

 

[DAVe3283]

Does the LBZ pump give me anything other than headroom for more power?

That's the main difference, and they can be cheaper sometimes (supply and demand I guess). If it has the LBZ regulator on it, it will need a tune adjustment to run right, and it will be a bit of a pain to plug in. But it sounds like you'll want a tune either way. Just load up the LBZ regulator current values and you're good to go. Pretty easy mod to make to any tune, just search on here.

I've got a stock LB7 turbo at 200k miles on my Suburban, 220k on my brother's truck, and my truck's was almost 300k miles when I went bigger. Did see one go out at 200k but that truck was whipped by the first owner. I'd run it if it is in good shape. They can last a LONG time if you try even a little not to destroy then.

If you do want to mess with the turbo, I will say that a billet S366, SAC45 injectors, & a brand new Sportsman CP3 is a recipe for 500-550 HP without too much risk to your stock bottom end. Probably the best fun per dollar point. But I'd stick with the stock turbo in your current situation, then upgrade later if you ever get tired of 425 WHP.

 

[Bdsankey]

Personally I'd get an Exergy Sportsman/S&S Supersport/Danville modded LBZ etc as they remove the restriction to fuel past 3000rpm and aren't much more than a genuine bosch pump. As for turbo, I'd run it. I daily drive my LB7 with 255k miles on it currently without a clue whats done to the motor other than what I've done in my signature. The previous owner studded it and seems to have done head gaskets based on the design that is on the truck (riveted, not crimped like factory 01-05).

Hell, I just towed my LLY across the country 2000 miles without a care in the world and I've only put ~6-7k miles on it before that.

 

[zakkb787]

Personally I'd get an Exergy Sportsman/S&S Supersport/Danville modded LBZ etc as they remove the restriction to fuel past 3000rpm and aren't much more than a genuine bosch pump. As for turbo, I'd run it. I daily drive my LB7 with 255k miles on it currently without a clue whats done to the motor other than what I've done in my signature. The previous owner studded it and seems to have done head gaskets based on the design that is on the truck (riveted, not crimped like factory 01-05).

Hell, I just towed my LLY across the country 2000 miles without a care in the world and I've only put ~6-7k miles on it before that.

If I’m not mistaken, the LDS is the S&S SuperSport. Someone correct me if I’m wrong

 

[Bdsankey]

If I’m not mistaken, the LDS is the S&S SuperSport. Someone correct me if I’m wrong

You're probably right since LDS only sells S&S fuel products from what I've seen.

 

[fl0w3n]

I called to check the price, it’s $925 for the LDS Super Sport LBZ CP3. So only $125 more than an LB7 one

Might be worth it just for the ability to move red line past 3k rpm

 

[DAVe3283]

I called to check the price, it’s $925 for the LDS Super Sport LBZ CP3. So only $125 more than an LB7 one

Might be worth it just for the ability to move red line past 3k rpm

Personally, I think it is.

 

[BlkMax]

Emma has about 325k miles, I have been running her as a DD since I bought her used at 180k. My commute is 100 miles on the nose each day. 3 days after I bought her, she was tuned with about a +140 tune, and I have never looked back and just gone up in the tuning from there....

Over the years I have done:
Kennedy twin pumps, with Cat water seperator and fuel filter
New S366, T4 at ~220 when I blew a hot side boot and took out the oil seals on the IHI,
Built trans when I finally killed the stocker at ~250k and a lot of laying the whip with the tune,
Head gaskets and studs at ~260k after running with a blow head gasket for waaay too long,
SAC 65% overs at ~280k, fuel in the oil and decided to go big
a 10mm Fleece CP3 to keep up with the sticks at about 290k
Mark B at Danville did a great job of tuning the truck after the new CP3.
Rebuit the stock filter head twice, now have a new one (tired of the leaking). I keep the stock filter head for the primer pump to charge the Kennedy centrifugal pumps as they will not self prime.

I have also rebuilt the t-case at ~200k because of vibration (bearing), had the front diff rebuilt because of a leaking case at ~300k (more tired of the oil on the floor than anything else), plus just regular maintenance.

This has been a great truck, and I would not be worried about driving her to Florida if I wanted to go that far. These things just keep running if you take care of them.

If you need the sticks or pump, I would use LDS. Those guys have been fantastic, have great parts and customer service. If you make a call, they will give you everything you need at really reasonable prices.

 

[fl0w3n]

Good point on the stock filter head for priming, but I thought I recalled my Kennedy single pump on the LBZ had a button on it to prime it?


Making me feel a lot better about the decision. Now I'm just getting antsy to start - truck is about 400 miles away from me and has been sitting for about 9 months. Need to carve out a couple weekends to get the work done. I'm debating whether to pull the fenders off when I do the injectors. I still need to install the water pump, thermostats, and harmonic balancer I've had sitting for a year, so pulling the fenders and front stack out should really make it easier for injectors and front accessory work. That way I can also give the front stack a real good cleaning.

 

[fl0w3n]

From my research, it's stupid to skimp on injectors and not do new cups and new lines.



LDS's "Exclusive Injector Install Kit" looks to have everything, but am I missing anything or is it more than I need? It asks about "OEM GM HP Lines" or "NEW OEM GM HP Lines" - is one just lines that LDS has cleaned and the other are brand new unused lines?

Our Exclusive Kit includes:

~Lower Valve Cover Gaskets
~Upper Valve Cover Sealant
~Copper Washers
~Injector O-rings
~Return Line Banjo Seals
~Injector Cup O-rings
~Red 272 Loctite
~Upper Radiator Pipe Seal
~FICM Seals
~Heater Pipe Seal
~AC Delco Glow Plugs
~Upper Valve Cover Bolts
~Lower Valve Cover Bolts
~Return Line Bolts (at injector)
~Return Line Bolts (at head)
~Brand New High Pressure Fuel Lines

 

[DAVe3283]

From my research, it's stupid to skimp on injectors and not do new cups and new lines.

LDS's "Exclusive Injector Install Kit" looks to have everything, but am I missing anything or is it more than I need? It asks about "OEM GM HP Lines" or "NEW OEM GM HP Lines" - is one just lines that LDS has cleaned and the other are brand new unused lines?

You don't need to replace the cups, just re-seal them. They're stainless steel and rarely take any damage. Inspect the sealing surfaces closely, both the cups and the head. No need to blindly replace them all. I wouldn't be surprised if all your cups are in perfect condition after cleaning.

DO NOT use Lincoln Diesel's reman high pressure lines. All they do is plate over crap used lines, and they don't seal. Tried using them on my Suburban and they wouldn't seal up no matter how much I tightened them. So either clean and reusue yours (if they're in good shape) or just buy brand new ones. LDS had the best price on new lines the last couple times I bought them. But stay away from their reman lines! Or you'll end up paying $100+ to overnight the new lines when the remans leak.

 

[2004LB7]

DO NOT use Lincoln Diesel's reman high pressure lines. All they do is plate over crap used lines, and they don't seal. Tried using them on my Suburban and they wouldn't seal up no matter how much I tightened them

I've had good luck with a small dab of locktite on the seal surface on the lines to keep them from leaking. May not be recommend but seems to work well at sealing up the pitted surface. Make sure you have only put it on the contact point so nothing gets into the injectors

 

[zakkb787]

I got lines from then that had been cleaned. Not plated. And had good luck with them.

 

[fl0w3n]

It looks like new lines are only $200, and I’ve seen people share that actually fully cleaning the lines yourself is near impossible to get rid of everything. If it is only $200 for new lines, it’s worth it to not risk pumping crud through the injector.

Glad to know I can get by with the existing cups though, that’ll save $250