Considering DD'ing 350k mile LB7?

[fl0w3n]

I talked with LDS today, I'm getting ready to bite the bullet and order stuff.


I talked to Walter and he sold me pretty hard on SAC 45's - LDS has been working with them for a while now and they really know them inside out, they test and build them in house, they offer a 3 year warranty on them, and they can build a brand new set plus the install kit for the same price as the SAC 00's basically. They weren't knocking the S&S SAC 00's, but just said they sell 10:1 45's to 00's and they are just too new, and they aren't built and tested in-house.


So I think I'm pretty sold on the 45's. I'm having him quote me for:


SAC45's
Install kit
Aftermarket brand new lines
Sportsman CP3 with LBZ FPR
Airdog 100
64mm Super Core turbo kit

 

[zakkb787]

Sounds like fun :woott:

 

[fl0w3n]

Sounds like fun :woott:

Absolutely! I love doing this type of stuff, but this time I'll be flying/driving 350 miles to the truck each weekend trying to finish it before I can bring it back up the 350 miles... I was just curious, so I got a quote from a reputable shop and @ $120/hr it is just hard to swallow. So sounds like I'll be taking a crack at it myself.




I'm not sure I'll be able to swing the turbo and the Air dog (vs Kennedy), but we'll see.



I didn't think about it but I should try finding a downpipe while I'm there, if the turbo winds up being in budget. My truck is a Cali LB7 unfortunately, but I have a federal y-bridge waiting to be installed.



I'm hoping I can knock everything out in 2-3 weekends.



Does anyone have part numbers on the extra valve cover bolts and injector hold down bolts that people recommend having on hand?

 

[zakkb787]

Absolutely! I love doing this type of stuff, but this time I'll be flying/driving 350 miles to the truck each weekend trying to finish it before I can bring it back up the 350 miles... I was just curious, so I got a quote from a reputable shop and @ $120/hr it is just hard to swallow. So sounds like I'll be taking a crack at it myself.




I'm not sure I'll be able to swing the turbo and the Air dog (vs Kennedy), but we'll see.



I didn't think about it but I should try finding a downpipe while I'm there, if the turbo winds up being in budget. My truck is a Cali LB7 unfortunately, but I have a federal y-bridge waiting to be installed.



I'm hoping I can knock everything out in 2-3 weekends.



Does anyone have part numbers on the extra valve cover bolts and injector hold down bolts that people recommend having on hand?

Lincoln can get you those bolts. I never had to get new hold down bolts but the valve cover bolts are a pain. For the injector return line bolts, I HIGHLY recommend a set of the merchant heavy duty bolts. The factory ones strip so easily. Ave your money on the turbo and get you a Kennedy or air dog. A hot tube will burn the clutch you already have. 500rwhp is fun enough in a dd

 

[fl0w3n]

Lincoln can get you those bolts. I never had to get new hold down bolts but the valve cover bolts are a pain. For the injector return line bolts, I HIGHLY recommend a set of the merchant heavy duty bolts. The factory ones strip so easily. Ave your money on the turbo and get you a Kennedy or air dog. A hot tube will burn the clutch you already have. 500rwhp is fun enough in a dd

LDS doesn’t have heavy duty bolts for the return lines?

I was thinking to do the turbo for more of a rebuild because of the mileage and unknown condition. Is it a bigger upgrade than I’m thinking? Can I just rebuild the one in there now? Should I step down to the 63.5 for half the price?

 

[zakkb787]

LDS doesn’t have heavy duty bolts for the return lines?

I was thinking to do the turbo for more of a rebuild because of the mileage and unknown condition. Is it a bigger upgrade than I’m thinking? Can I just rebuild the one in there now? Should I step down to the 63.5 for half the price?

Take the horn off and see how shaft play is. If it’s minimal leave it and run it. If not, look at a stock replacement or rebuild. Just to keep cost down. No, LDS doesn’t have the bolts. Merchant is a vendor here and has them. Or google is your friend.

Edit, just saw the super core is fairly good priced. Would be a good upgrade if there is play.

 

[DAVe3283]

I always change the valve cover bolts out because the stupid Allen heads strip out on me. My truck and Suburban use stainless steel bolts, but my brother just did his truck with e-torx bolts off a BMW, and they're really slick. It's almost impossible to strip an e-torx. Next time I open one of my engines, I'm switching to the e-torx. But at the very minimum, I recommend you switch from Allen bolts to normal bolts when you do the injectors.

Merchant Automotive is where you get the return line bolts. Expensive, but well worth it. I've stripped plenty of stock ones, but never had a problem with the Merchant bolts.

 

[zakkb787]

I always change the valve cover bolts out because the stupid Allen heads strip out on me. My truck and Suburban use stainless steel bolts, but my brother just did his truck with e-torx bolts off a BMW, and they're really slick. It's almost impossible to strip an e-torx. Next time I open one of my engines, I'm switching to the e-torx. But at the very minimum, I recommend you switch from Allen bolts to normal bolts when you do the injectors.

Merchant Automotive is where you get the return line bolts. Expensive, but well worth it. I've stripped plenty of stock ones, but never had a problem with the Merchant bolts.

So glad you agree on the return line bolts Dave. Many of the guys here don’t recommend them but dang are they the trick.

 

[Chevy1925]

Must be a back east thing. Valve cover bolts and return line bolts ain’t an issue I’ve had

 

[zakkb787]

Must be a back east thing. Valve cover bolts and return line bolts ain’t an issue I’ve had

I had a return line bolt strip so bad I had to cut it off the injector. Probably not much of an issue as long as they’ve been taken care of previously but at his mileage who knows. Also not everyone is as meticulous as you James haha and as far as valve covers, everywhere but your dry ass state we have a little something called corrosion from humidity lol

 

[fl0w3n]

Take the horn off and see how shaft play is. If it’s minimal leave it and run it. If not, look at a stock replacement or rebuild. Just to keep cost down. No, LDS doesn’t have the bolts. Merchant is a vendor here and has them. Or google is your friend.

Edit, just saw the super core is fairly good priced. Would be a good upgrade if there is play.

Yeah it’s around $900, which isn’t necessarily cheap... but better than a full drop in and essentially handles the rebuild part. The 63.5 is half the price but doesn’t really handle the rebuild if it has shaft play, I think?

I’m with you though if it comes down to it, lift pump over turbo. There seems to be random websites (no sponsors or sites I’ve heard of) that have rebuilds for about $100

I always change the valve cover bolts out because the stupid Allen heads strip out on me. My truck and Suburban use stainless steel bolts, but my brother just did his truck with e-torx bolts off a BMW, and they're really slick. It's almost impossible to strip an e-torx. Next time I open one of my engines, I'm switching to the e-torx. But at the very minimum, I recommend you switch from Allen bolts to normal bolts when you do the injectors.

Merchant Automotive is where you get the return line bolts. Expensive, but well worth it. I've stripped plenty of stock ones, but never had a problem with the Merchant bolts.

Got a size or part number I can look into for replacing the valve cover bolts?

Guess I’ll just add another $90 into the budget for the Merchant bolts lol

 

[2004LB7]

Valve cover bolts (regular hex head) can be had at your local hardware store. Get some good grade 10.9 with matching washers or if you can find them, flange head bolts

ACE hardware or Fastenal should have proper replacements for like 0.20 each

 

[zakkb787]

As far as those random cheap sites, remember this. Your turbo moves faster than anything on the truck. Do you really want to cheap out on bearings and a shaft? Even if the bearings are good, just a little off balance and kaboom

 

[fl0w3n]

As far as those random cheap sites, remember this. Your turbo moves faster than anything on the truck. Do you really want to cheap out on bearings and a shaft? Even if the bearings are good, just a little off balance and kaboom

Yeah that’s exactly my concern. If I don’t see posts pop up about people rebuilding them on here or the other big 2 forums, it’s probably not a good idea.

I really don’t know much about turbo size to power, or how big the stock one even is.

Can you put it into perspective what a 63.5 and 64mm turbo will do for me? Like you mentioned, I could easily be at limit of my clutch as is without the turbo, so I’m not exactly looking for more power. Just a good cool running daily driveable stock like turbo that can tow too.
I’m not seeing anyone selling reman stock units, which is why I’m considering the 64mm.

 

[Bdsankey]

Yeah that’s exactly my concern. If I don’t see posts pop up about people rebuilding them on here or the other big 2 forums, it’s probably not a good idea.

I really don’t know much about turbo size to power, or how big the stock one even is.

Can you put it into perspective what a 63.5 and 64mm turbo will do for me? Like you mentioned, I could easily be at limit of my clutch as is without the turbo, so I’m not exactly looking for more power. Just a good cool running daily driveable stock like turbo that can tow too.
I’m not seeing anyone selling reman stock units, which is why I’m considering the 64mm.

There are quite a few reman turbos out there. What typically changes from a supercore 63.5mm to what a more expensive 64mm+ is the larger turbo typically gets a larger turbine requiring more parts/more machine time. Duramax Tuner/Calibrated power has had good luck with their IHI Stealth 64mm G2 turbos and are honestly well priced IMO.


BD Power reman: https://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power-oem-reman-exchange-duramax-turbocharger
AFE reman: https://www.xtremediesel.com/afe-46-60100-bladerunner-street-series-turbocharger
Industrail reman: https://www.xtremediesel.com/industrial-injection-remanufactured-lb7-stock-turbocharger

 

[zakkb787]

Stock size if I remember is somewhere around the 60ish mark. A 63.5/64 turbo will give you enough power especially with those 45 overs to hurt your engine. Stock turbo max effort is fairly safe on the bottom end, but once you add more air you are playing with fire. 525 rwhp is attainable with a stock turbo. This will hurt your factory clutch pretty easily tho. And in a 6 speed truck I’d imagine it’s loads of fun.

 

[2004LB7]

If you are set on replacing the turbo or it is bad, I say get the 63.5 turbo and limit the torque/hp in the tune until you have a clutch that can handle it. Then you can turn it up

 

[zakkb787]

If you are set on replacing the turbo or it is bad, I say get the 63.5 turbo and limit the torque/hp in the tune until you have a clutch that can handle it. Then you can turn it up

X2. Not that much of a difference in price. Or if the turbo is good the wheel and cover would be a good option while it’s all apart if you have the money. Lift pump first tho. Might can save by going a single Kennedy with a custom filter setup.

 

[Bdsankey]

X2. Not that much of a difference in price. Or if the turbo is good the wheel and cover would be a good option while it’s all apart if you have the money. Lift pump first tho. Might can save by going a single Kennedy with a custom filter setup.

Or, I do believe this wouldn't be a bad option and helps another forum member get some parts out of his garage. Pretty sure he's open to reasonable offers.

https://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1135651#post1135651

 

[zakkb787]

Good eye BD! Yellow Chevy is the MAN when it comes to IHIs