Concrete Block? Good or Bad?
- Thread starter Cknight199
- Start date
Not at all. I run the Flex lite fans as well. The truck should make north of 1000 Hp with ease. I will notice Temps rise when I make a hard pull on it but will cool back down within seconds.
After as much crap youve given me for saying this exact thing....oh the irony haha. But back on topic. I second or third the deck plate and sleeve approach for that level.
After reading the quotes, I have to ask why you don't just lighten up the truck? Why run a relatively-dedicated drag truck at almost 7000 lbs?
A lighter truck doesnt need as much power to run a low number, you dont have to completely max-out your build and parts will last longer (not forever, just longer).
A lighter truck doesnt need as much power to run a low number, you dont have to completely max-out your build and parts will last longer (not forever, just longer).
The plan is to remove as much weight as possible, seats, extra batteries, gas tank, tailgate, spare tire, etc. now it weight 7000 lbs as it with me in it, and I figured it would weight around that or lighter from adding the roll cage and other little stuff. It was just a rough guess. And I don't want to replace any parts with fiberglass or custom fiber just yet, as the goal is to run a full weight 10 second pass. Then go from there and turn the wick up a bit.
If someone spent $100,000 on a engine thats pure highway robbery! I've heard of a few, and just shake my head.
NGM Diesel's got the most advanced duramax engines out there and im betting those engines dont cost that much and are 100% billet, block, heads, crank,front rear covers, intake manifolds....You name it.
Filled blocks halfway done are not what you want, there are many reasons why you shouldent do this. Most of the combustion psi is in the upper 2" of the bore, so if you fill it half way you've accomplished NOTHING, yet created a pressure point in the bore surface. Also to note is the head stud enguagement is in the top 2" of the deck surface, or bore area. Again you've created another issue for High tq studs to pull in bound towards the bore centerline, and cause sealing issue's. All good reasons to fill 100%. If in doubt leave it alone! Filled blocks CAN be run on the street, but you have to be smart about it, get a good electric water pump and watch the water temps,and get a good oil cooler with a fan, its been done. I'm not talking about towing up a mountain, but casual driving. O.P. hope this helps you.
NGM Diesel's got the most advanced duramax engines out there and im betting those engines dont cost that much and are 100% billet, block, heads, crank,front rear covers, intake manifolds....You name it.
Filled blocks halfway done are not what you want, there are many reasons why you shouldent do this. Most of the combustion psi is in the upper 2" of the bore, so if you fill it half way you've accomplished NOTHING, yet created a pressure point in the bore surface. Also to note is the head stud enguagement is in the top 2" of the deck surface, or bore area. Again you've created another issue for High tq studs to pull in bound towards the bore centerline, and cause sealing issue's. All good reasons to fill 100%. If in doubt leave it alone! Filled blocks CAN be run on the street, but you have to be smart about it, get a good electric water pump and watch the water temps,and get a good oil cooler with a fan, its been done. I'm not talking about towing up a mountain, but casual driving. O.P. hope this helps you.
I believe core shift is what is being addressed with block fill. Stabilization of items that you wouldn't think would move but at big power do move some. Deck plate bore and hone should solve stud deformities as much as can be done. Some guys don't believe in it and some do. Anything that you can do to get the same results time and again and still be durable will be worth addressing.
False, longer rod is better, lol... Rod angle is reduced considerably, higher rod angle puts more stress on a connecting rod.
Call Wagler with an open checkbook... 1.25" deck plates with sleeves pressed into them because usually so much block structure gets bored out, the deck plates actually help tie the block and cylinder structure to each other...
If it's a 90% race truck put aluminum rods in it too, they act as a "cushion" for the crank and are lighter which saves stress on crank and make it internally balance easier, and use the AF camshaft...
I recommend that you DO NOT HALF FILL THE BLOCK. We did that with one of Max'd Out first built engines and it cracked the cylinder right at the fill line, OSUBeaver who is a member on here cracked his in the exact same place as well. It really doesn't accomplish anything, a good girdle and billet main caps with studs are a much better way to go along with internal balancing. You will not drive a 1000 hp truck on the street at that power setting. You won't be able to keep it on the ground in 2 wheel drive and driving it around in 4x4 all the time, especially if you have a spool gets old quick. It good to get an idea what things cost, but the built block is just a part of it. There is so much more that goes into it, and believe me you hold your breath everytime you make a pass down the track. You will be constantly rebuilding your Allison tranny if you hot rod it around much on the big tune, especially at the weight you are talking about.
When we first built Max'd Out one the the very respected Duramax guys said it will be difficult to get 20 minutes at WOT with an engine with that much rear wheel HP. As long as I owned Max'd Out we never got 20 minutes out of any of the three engines we used before we broke them in some fashion, and we used state of the art parts on all of them. That gets F@cking old in a hurry when it coming out of your pocket.
White Out is a good street truck and the #5 tune on the NSP-5 switch makes an honest 1000+ hp. It is probably the oldest build around that makes that kind of HP and it has one of a kind forged pistons. Built the truck in 2010 and put about 20K on it driving it to races in Kansas, Texas, Minn, Edmonton and Texas as well at all the west coast races in NHRDA. I built it to run in the Super Street class but it wasn't quick enough to be competitive so I ran it on the big tune only enough to get on in the 10 second club then turned it down and ran the 11.90 index class. It's still running strong today and with it new owner. If there were a 10.90 index class it would be perfect for that truck but I'd still worry a bit about hurting it.
If all you are after is making the 10.99 or quicker Dmax list then do a cheap build as was mentioned earlier, have a good tuner build you a tune for NOS, lighten the truck as much as possible, spray it get your time and then turn it down to the 600 hp level and enjoy it. You will still have plenty of power, your engine and tranny will be much happier and it will still be bad ass.:thumb::thumb:
Another thing if you build your truck with big HP it is very hard to sell them because potential buyers think you have run the crap out of them. You will get less than 40 cents on the dollar when you go to sell it unless you are very lucky. Believe me, I know what I'm talking about.
When we first built Max'd Out one the the very respected Duramax guys said it will be difficult to get 20 minutes at WOT with an engine with that much rear wheel HP. As long as I owned Max'd Out we never got 20 minutes out of any of the three engines we used before we broke them in some fashion, and we used state of the art parts on all of them. That gets F@cking old in a hurry when it coming out of your pocket.
White Out is a good street truck and the #5 tune on the NSP-5 switch makes an honest 1000+ hp. It is probably the oldest build around that makes that kind of HP and it has one of a kind forged pistons. Built the truck in 2010 and put about 20K on it driving it to races in Kansas, Texas, Minn, Edmonton and Texas as well at all the west coast races in NHRDA. I built it to run in the Super Street class but it wasn't quick enough to be competitive so I ran it on the big tune only enough to get on in the 10 second club then turned it down and ran the 11.90 index class. It's still running strong today and with it new owner. If there were a 10.90 index class it would be perfect for that truck but I'd still worry a bit about hurting it.
If all you are after is making the 10.99 or quicker Dmax list then do a cheap build as was mentioned earlier, have a good tuner build you a tune for NOS, lighten the truck as much as possible, spray it get your time and then turn it down to the 600 hp level and enjoy it. You will still have plenty of power, your engine and tranny will be much happier and it will still be bad ass.:thumb::thumb:
Another thing if you build your truck with big HP it is very hard to sell them because potential buyers think you have run the crap out of them. You will get less than 40 cents on the dollar when you go to sell it unless you are very lucky. Believe me, I know what I'm talking about.
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You forget connecting rods and a boatload of nitrous. Lol.
I agree with this totally, besides the block fill. Do it cheap, then you won't feel quite as bad when you break it. And if you drop 6-700 lbs you won't need 1k to run 10s. I don't think most of the public understands what it takes to get a full weight CC into the 10s.
All you have to do is look at the truck weights on Ken's under-10.99 list. There arent many above 6500 lbs, and other than a couple guys, those trucks over that weight running those times were almost always broken.
Oh yes rods are a must. My truck ran 11.1 with a 75mm at full weight with nitrous. I now have an 80mm and even more nitrous and my truck is daily driven. It has 60,000 miles on the build and the only thing I've changed is pistons. My block is short filled.
Yep. Two of them. First one lasted 2 seasons with quite a few passes (maybe 100 or so didn't keep a log). Second one built by the same people with the exact same parts (LMM block instead of LB7 because that's what I had around) lasted something like 5 dyno pulls and 5 passes at the track. Same turbos, tunes, etc. Right about 1000hp to the tires.
First one cracked a cylinder a little above and below the fill line. Second one cracked two cylinders in the same place. There are pictures on here somewhere of the first one.
Engine now is not filled at all so we'll see.
And like somebody else said, 1000hp and dependable, nothing to worry about, etc. don't even belong in the same conversation.
Although I don't have any quantitative proof, after going through two of them I would tend to think this is pretty much right on. My opinion anyway.
Good luck to you. It is pretty fun right until you get tired of throwing fist fulls of money at it every so often.
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I agree with building it cheap and have fun until it pops.
Little over 9000 miles on my "cheap" engine, going great, but I'd be lying if I said im not worried about it at the track. Keep the weight down and it will stay alive for longer.
Little over 9000 miles on my "cheap" engine, going great, but I'd be lying if I said im not worried about it at the track. Keep the weight down and it will stay alive for longer.
