Can they make an AF cam to whatever specs I want or do they only offer a specific cam?
Concrete Block? Good or Bad?
- Thread starter Cknight199
- Start date
Can they make an AF cam to whatever specs I want or do they only offer a specific cam?
Ok thanks, ill have to look into that. I am not convinced that they prevent a crank from breaking, but I could believe that they help.
A lot... I don't want to put a number out there because I can see a lot of people doubting me along the way, and I really don't want that. I just want good tech info
Edit: I'm more concerned about the motor holding together to make several 10 second passes or faster at 6800lbs-6900lbs. It's a lot easier to get a motor to hold together on a dyno than at the drags.
The motor holding will only be half your battle at that that weight with the power level it takes to run those times. Keeping a Trans in it will not be a easy task either.
The lb7 crank is no stronger. i have no idea where this rumor started coming from but im starting to see that pop up more from people. the cranks breaking more in LBZ and LMM has to do with the removal of piston weight and adding it back in at the balancer/flex plate mixed with the fact the first main bearing is so damn small as compared to the size it could be. this was how Guy explained it to me and it made perfect sense to me.
either way, LB7s and LLYs still break cranks, just not as often it "seems" as the newer gens. swapping cranks wont help though.
as for the AF cam, only time will tell. its still new and its not a guarantee. there is no facts to back that it will stop cranks from breaking, only that some scales that have been posted show it MIGHT help alleviate stress.
We also have to remember that a high 10 sec truck in that weight range means your going to be at or knocking on the 1000hp door. at that point, reliability is going out the window. A little issue can turn into a big one at that power level and destroy things. Not to metion the rest of your drivetrain had better be in top shape, thats not cheap either.
just being that the 600hp i have been at for 30k on a truck with 190k has been a decent work out at making sure things are staying up to snuff. bad injector here, bad internal parts on t-case there, replace a slip yoke, keep steering parts tight, make sure trans is shifting like stock, and on and on. if this was my only play rig as it was years ago, it would be no problem but now that i have two other rigs to play in, it gets to be cumbersome. So keep in mind that not only the motor will need constant attention.
Yea but wouldn't you say 1000 hp is relatively safe on a motor that has all the goodies in it? And I understand that there is also the drivetrain to take care of.
And the rumor of Lbz's breaking cranks more often makes much more sense if you explain it that way! So do you think an internally balanced motor work out better in my situation?
Relatively safe/reliable and a 1000+ hp truck don't belong in the same sentence no matter what parts you use. You will always be working on it if you actually use the power. I'm not trying to be negative and shoot your plans down but you need to know what your getting into.
think of it like this. your taking a 360hp motor and trying to make 1000+ hp. we have come a long ways since the mid 2000s and what was done then but by no means have we figure it all out yet. You dont see 1000hp cummins truck running round as DDs without issues either. You are pushing every aspect of the truck well beyond what it was intended for. Hell im pushing mine well beyond what it was intended for and if it makes 100k without a motor issue, ill be surprised. Mine will be coming back out at that point for a refresh and just to see what it looks like with 100k of 600+hp.
if you get 20k out of yours without much issue, your doing damn well.
Caden, put you engine parts into your student loans
Exactly:thumb:
But in all seriousness, I don't have a "budget". I am just pricing it all together and then we will see what the bill is. Work on some sponsors, etc. Like I said in my motor build thread, I want to do it right. If that means the motor won't be done for a year or two then so be it. No rush on it really, sooner the better but I would rather do it right the first time than put a motor that I second guess every time I make a pass.
I guess I forgot to clarify that the motor won't be a daily driver. It'll be a maybe 2000 miles a year motor, with forged pistons, etc. Should have clarified, Im not daily driving it around at 1000 hp lol.
