Compressor Efficiency Problem
- Thread starter Killerbee
- Start date
What new Kit are you refering to? The factory LBZ turbo inlet elbow and factory LBZ intake? You can find factory intakes for fairly cheap from people that put on aftermarket kits and the inlet elbow can be found for fairly cheap too.
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Thats a modified LLY intake with LBZ Bell in the pic. He must be talking about the Bell,3" coupler and clamps??????
The kit ships as a turnkey swapout. It consists of a machined LBZ mouthpiece, heavily modified for flow, as well as fitment. It includes everything to span the airbox to the compressor.
-Upsized mouthpiece
-Intake tube
-Urethane Reducer Coupling
-coupling clamps
-V-band clamp
-Instruction Manual with suggested tuning changes to take advantage of the increased MAF and lowered charge temps
The LBZ mouthpiece does NOT fit the LLY correctly, so it must be machined for a correct fit. If you don't, the hood will slam on it. But feel free to find that out how I did. It is machined in a number of places, most are internal.
it has a 15-30 minute install time, and it is guaranteed fully refundable if you don't like what it does for you, for any reason.
I am getting 200 degree lower EGT, a loaded 2.2 mpg improvement, I have not dyno'd it yet, but it made the tires spin on a tune that never could. At high boost, COT will drop 90 degrees, post CAC will drop 60 degrees, and I can generate 38 psi of (stock turbo) boost...safely.
I have been to 43 psi. MAF is up 12-16% also.
The fan no longer comes on after a high load workout. The turbo is spinning slower, estimated at 20,000 rpm reduction at stock boost. This is not a marginal performance benefit.
If you are handy, and can do some machining, you can probably do this yourself if you know where to hit it, and save some money. You can get one of those rubber clay pipe couplings to work, home depot might have one you can cut down, just plan on replacing it, under hood conditions deteriorate that rubber.
I am testing a high volume fog coupling to replace this as an upgrade, can be used for nitrous and propane, all together if desired.
-Upsized mouthpiece
-Intake tube
-Urethane Reducer Coupling
-coupling clamps
-V-band clamp
-Instruction Manual with suggested tuning changes to take advantage of the increased MAF and lowered charge temps
The LBZ mouthpiece does NOT fit the LLY correctly, so it must be machined for a correct fit. If you don't, the hood will slam on it. But feel free to find that out how I did. It is machined in a number of places, most are internal.
it has a 15-30 minute install time, and it is guaranteed fully refundable if you don't like what it does for you, for any reason.
I am getting 200 degree lower EGT, a loaded 2.2 mpg improvement, I have not dyno'd it yet, but it made the tires spin on a tune that never could. At high boost, COT will drop 90 degrees, post CAC will drop 60 degrees, and I can generate 38 psi of (stock turbo) boost...safely.
I have been to 43 psi. MAF is up 12-16% also.The fan no longer comes on after a high load workout. The turbo is spinning slower, estimated at 20,000 rpm reduction at stock boost. This is not a marginal performance benefit.
If you are handy, and can do some machining, you can probably do this yourself if you know where to hit it, and save some money. You can get one of those rubber clay pipe couplings to work, home depot might have one you can cut down, just plan on replacing it, under hood conditions deteriorate that rubber.
I am testing a high volume fog coupling to replace this as an upgrade, can be used for nitrous and propane, all together if desired.
The kit ships as a turnkey swapout. It consists of a machined LBZ mouthpiece, heavily modified for flow, as well as fitment. It includes everything to span the airbox to the compressor.
-Upsized mouthpiece
-Intake tube
-Urethane Reducer Coupling
-coupling clamps
-V-band clamp
-Instruction Manual with suggested tuning changes to take advantage of the increased MAF and lowered charge temps
The LBZ mouthpiece does NOT fit the LLY correctly, so it must be machined for a correct fit. If you don't, the hood will slam on it. But feel free to find that out how I did. It is machined in a number of places, most are internal.
it has a 15-30 minute install time, and it is guaranteed fully refundable if you don't like what it does for you, for any reason.
I am getting 200 degree lower EGT, a loaded 2.2 mpg improvement, I have not dyno'd it yet, but it made the tires spin on a tune that never could. At high boost, COT will drop 90 degrees, post CAC will drop 60 degrees, and I can generate 38 psi of (stock turbo) boost...safely.
The fan no longer comes on after a high load workout. The turbo is spinning slower, estimated at 20,000 rpm reduction at stock boost. This is not a marginal performance benefit.
If you are handy, and can do some machining, you can probably do this yourself if you know where to hit it, and save some money. You can get one of those rubber clay pipe couplings to work, home depot might have one you can cut down, just plan on replacing it, under hood conditions deteriorate that rubber.
I am testing a high volume fog coupling to replace this as an upgrade, can be used for nitrous and propane, all together if desired.
where does the hood slam on it, I have the LBZ inlet and Banks LBZ CAC and the hood doesnt touch it
Thanks for specifying for everyone, I just mentioned what it looked like to me. An LBZ inlet elbow and LBZ S&B intake are going on mine with the Cheetah and with the EGR cooler removed it should all fit fine.
Larry, I think the GMC hood comes down lower than the Chevy hood. Anyway, it is a non-issue after the modification. You may want to look into trimming it, makes it look factory and horizontal.
There is not much to be gained on the LMM. BUT, the beefogger will be built for the LBZ/LMM.
Yes on the LB7, there is improvement potential for sure.
How much modification has to be done to make it fit a GMC?
Can you show pics or describe the modifications internal and external.
If you don't want to that's okay, I know you are trying to run a business.
Can you show pics or describe the modifications internal and external.
If you don't want to that's okay, I know you are trying to run a business.
Not so much a business, DP, as justifying my time to my wife, LOL.
-There is an external rib, it hits the EGR, which keeps it propped up...machine it off in that area.
-The cuff flaired barb on the new moutpiece gets cut off ans smoothed.
-The PCV port needs to be shortened to make install much easier.
-Internally (and this is the tough part due to boundary limits) there are a number of places that smooth airflow, as well as a technique for roughing the surface to keep the boundary layer turbulent, like dimpling a golfball.
-The urethane coupling is also key..since you won't find this one, the trick is to not change the flow area up and down, as that makes for loss each time that happens.
-cut the intake tube in the right place, square off and smooth .
etc etc.
I always like to see DIY. That is a big reason I chose to abandon tooling a new mouthpiece, . There is a fare amount of work involved in making this "as good as it can be", but even more in tooling new stuff. So this induction overhaul kit makes this a whole lot easier, and will make much more sense for many. If you value your time, the extra you will pay amounts to $5 per hour for the time you will need to DIY. That's not saving money IMO, and you get a better end result this way. IMO
-There is an external rib, it hits the EGR, which keeps it propped up...machine it off in that area.
-The cuff flaired barb on the new moutpiece gets cut off ans smoothed.
-The PCV port needs to be shortened to make install much easier.
-Internally (and this is the tough part due to boundary limits) there are a number of places that smooth airflow, as well as a technique for roughing the surface to keep the boundary layer turbulent, like dimpling a golfball.
-The urethane coupling is also key..since you won't find this one, the trick is to not change the flow area up and down, as that makes for loss each time that happens.
-cut the intake tube in the right place, square off and smooth .
etc etc.
I always like to see DIY. That is a big reason I chose to abandon tooling a new mouthpiece, . There is a fare amount of work involved in making this "as good as it can be", but even more in tooling new stuff. So this induction overhaul kit makes this a whole lot easier, and will make much more sense for many. If you value your time, the extra you will pay amounts to $5 per hour for the time you will need to DIY. That's not saving money IMO, and you get a better end result this way. IMO
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Now that I think about it, I did cut the barb for the resonator and the pcv down considerably and I installed plugs to smooth the interanal air flow, so if this is the part that the hood slammed on, that is why mine didnt.
This might have been covered, but lack of time means I cannot read though 19 pages.
So how would this compare to a my AEM brute force that I currently have installed? I up for anything that keeps the truck happier(cooler) when working.
So how would this compare to a my AEM brute force that I currently have installed? I up for anything that keeps the truck happier(cooler) when working.
Now that I think about it, I did cut the barb for the resonator and the pcv down considerably and I installed plugs to smooth the interanal air flow, so if this is the part that the hood slammed on, that is why mine didnt.
It's a Chevy/GMC thing, mine had no hood clearance issue.
K.B
:thankyou:
I wanted to say thanks for all the time you put into helping to solve this issue, had you not mentioned it many months ago, we stock VVT guys might still be sucking though a straw.
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Craig, you NEED to get an LBZ piece it makes your tune even faster!!!!
Working on it.....paging Larry Jewell.......Larry Jewell.....
It's no wonder the LBZ inlet is on back order.
Michael,
This is great stuff you have come up with. I read the article and it is fantastic.
Everyone with an LLY should most defiantly do this mod.
As far as I know your AEM intake does not replace the turbo inlet elbow which is the biggest restriction on the LLY's intake tract, buying a modded LBZ inlet elbow (or modding one yourself) and making it work with your AEM intake would help you out.
KB, sorry if I came off as calling you out or putting down your product - even if it were factory LBZ pieces, you are the one that got the ball rolling to figure out the problem and find an affordable solution so thank you for that.
Working on it.....paging Larry Jewell.......Larry Jewell.....
It's no wonder the LBZ inlet is on back order.
Michael,
This is great stuff you have come up with. I read the article and it is fantastic.
Everyone with an LLY should most defiantly do this mod.
Sorry, I am to blame for this.
and thanks for the compliment.