Edited from above post
The kit ships as a turnkey swapout. It consists of a machined LBZ mouthpiece, heavily modified for flow, as well as fitment. It includes everything to span the airbox to the compressor.
-Upsized mouthpiece
-Intake tube
-Urethane Reducer Coupling
-coupling clamps
-V-band clamp
-Instruction Manual with suggested tuning changes to take advantage of the increased MAF and lowered charge temps
The LBZ mouthpiece does NOT fit the LLY correctly, so it must be machined for a correct fit. If you don't, the hood will slam on it. But feel free to find that out how I did. It is machined in a number of places, most are internal.
it has a 15-30 minute install time, and it is guaranteed fully refundable if you don't like what it does for you, for any reason.
I am getting 200 degree lower EGT, a loaded 2.2 mpg improvement, I have not dyno'd it yet, but it made the tires spin on a tune that never could. At high boost, COT will drop 90 degrees, post CAC will drop 60 degrees, and I can generate 38 psi of (stock turbo) boost...safely. I have been to 43 psi. MAF is up 12-16% also.
The fan no longer comes on after a high load workout. The turbo is spinning slower, estimated at 20,000 rpm reduction at stock boost. This is not a marginal performance benefit.
If you are handy, and can do some machining, you can probably do this yourself if you know where to hit it, and save some money. You can get one of those rubber clay pipe couplings to work, home depot might have one you can cut down, just plan on replacing it, under hood conditions deteriorate that rubber.
I am testing a high volume fog coupling to replace this as an upgrade, can be used for nitrous and propane, all together if desired.
What are the chances of something like this being Lb7 or even a modded one for an LMM?
How much modification has to be done to make it fit a GMC?
Can you show pics or describe the modifications internal and external.
If you don't want to that's okay, I know you are trying to run a business.
Not so much a business, DP, as justifying my time to my wife, LOL.
-There is an external rib, it hits the EGR, which keeps it propped up...machine it off in that area.
-The barb on the new moutpiece gets cut off
-The PCV port needs to be shortened to make install much easier.
-Internally (and this is the tough part due to boundary limits) there are a number of places that smooth airflow, as well as a technique for roughing the surface to keep the boundary layer turbulent, like dimpling a golfball.
-The urethane coupling is also key..the trick is to not change the flow area up and down, as that makes for loss each time that happens.
-cut the intake tube in the right place.
etc etc.
I always like to see DIY. That is a big reason I chose to abandon tooling a new mouthpiece, I prefer not to reinvent the wall. There is a fare amount of work involved in making this "as good as it can be". So the kit makes this a whole lot easier, and will make much more sense for many.
Now that I think about it, I did cut the barb for the resonator and the pcv down considerably and I installed plugs to smooth the interanal air flow, so if this is the part that the hood slammed on, that is why mine didnt.
Craig, you NEED to get an LBZ piece it makes your tune even faster!!!!
So how would this compare to a my AEM brute force that I currently have installed? I up for anything that keeps the truck happier(cooler) when working.
Working on it.....paging Larry Jewell.......Larry Jewell.....
It's no wonder the LBZ inlet is on back order.
Michael,
This is great stuff you have come up with. I read the article and it is fantastic.
Everyone with an LLY should most defiantly do this mod.