Coilovers!!

z79outlaw

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Apr 20, 2007
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i just know the UCA ball joints will not last. they hardly last with dual shock hoops. in a drag strip only application it would probably work but you will also now need a cross bar/strut bar that can interfere with turbo setups. if you dont, thats alot of leverage on that hoop to make it flex

What makes them wear out faster? just curious, my truck came with the hoop and I've got 55,xxx on it now they seem to be holding up good so far, just trying to figure if I should get cognito UCA's sooner rather than later as preventitive maintenence.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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What makes them wear out faster? just curious, my truck came with the hoop and I've got 55,xxx on it now they seem to be holding up good so far, just trying to figure if I should get cognito UCA's sooner rather than later as preventitive maintenence.

Your using all the dampening force of the shocks on the UCA. those joints were never ment to see that load, only the LCA ball joint was. So that 100lbs wheel and tire plus spindle weight, brakes, calipers are now all being slowed via shocks on the UCA and its ball joint.

I 30k out of the "good moog" ball joints using the dual shock hoops before slop would occure and these are much bigger than a stock joint. Again, im not easy on my junk and am always looking for longevity out of my parts. going back to a single LCA mounted shock has really helped my UCA ball joints last. Not to metion, the two shocks were limiting my up travel as well. i gained another inch of travel just by goin back to the single. If it last under me, i know it will last for 90% of those out there for suspension parts. Ive put lots of time into my front end and figuring out what works and what doesnt.

and some how after all ive put the truck through, im still riding on factory 2001 LCA ball joints with 170k on them :confused:
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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What if you built your own UCA using the ball joint from the LCA? Then you could move the shock mounting point closer to the ball joint for better control and give you the ability to run a lighter spring. You would have to run a longer shock to get the travel back, but you should have plenty of room. Maybe not on lowered trucks, but they could relocate their fuse box and run the coilovers up through the hood. :D
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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What if you built your own UCA using the ball joint from the LCA? Then you could move the shock mounting point closer to the ball joint for better control and give you the ability to run a lighter spring. You would have to run a longer shock to get the travel back, but you should have plenty of room. Maybe not on lowered trucks, but they could relocate their fuse box and run the coilovers up through the hood. :D

theoreticly, a 900lbs springs isnt suppose to work based on all the calcs ive ran on three different spring rate calculators. they call for 2000lbs springs cause they are assuming you are putting 0 preload into the coilspring.

the next issue is, is the taper the same for the LCA ball joint as the UCA ball joint? and how would you attach it to a control arm?

at that point, id much rather run a 1 1/4" uni-ball. it wont last as long but its simpler, parts are readily availible around here, and made to be welded onto.

Your shock hoop would have to be one hell of a hoop to be strong enough in the truck and not flex
 

RPM Motorsports

smokinum
May 13, 2008
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i just know the UCA ball joints will not last. they hardly last with dual shock hoops. in a drag strip only application it would probably work but you will also now need a cross bar/strut bar that can interfere with turbo setups. if you dont, thats alot of leverage on that hoop to make it flex

I installed an MPI kit on a truck with hoops, and it cleared fine, down pipe and all.
 

RPM Motorsports

smokinum
May 13, 2008
3,271
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Central Valley Ca.
Why would you need a strut bar, I've never seen an autoX Dmax, but that would be cool. All the units I have seen and installed tie the hoop into the stock upper shock mount, even the SFA units. I have yet to see one fail, but like I said earlier anything is possible.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Well im going off my experience and background. Imop, its needed but it doesnt mean you cant get away without one.
 

sickdiesel

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Apr 22, 2010
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There is some great info in this thread! I think I'm gonna give this a whirl on the white thing lol
 

sickdiesel

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Apr 22, 2010
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Motor was just finished so I'm going to pick it up tomorrow and then the real work starts. I have a month and a half to get it done by Texas :)

It's just hard finding time between full time college, full time work, and the gym everyday lol

I'll defiantly be hitting you up tho bud :)
 

TheBac

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Apr 19, 2008
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James, I stumbled on this picture when researching 4 links today:

http://www.quickstreettrucks.com/showthread.php?549-4-link-for-my-02-silverado-ecsb

I wonder who makes that coilover? Does it look familiar to you?

DSC_0079.jpg
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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I can not say ive seen that shock before. Doesnt look like one from the normal guys i know about. Sorry i have not gotten pics for you tom. Been busy tryin to find parts for the samurai to go wheelin tomorrow
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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I sent them an email Josh. The username didnt ring any bells with me. Thanks for that info.

James, dont sweat the pics. Its not like Im looking to build it tomorrow.
 

408.Luke

Joined the DARKSIDE
Sep 19, 2009
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Just saw this, I have not been on in awhile but was on here researching front coilover setups for my duramax, planing on doing the swap next month.

Those are ridetech coilovers, and they are a direct bolt in for the 1/2 ton 2wd trucks. You can only get this kit through my friend, Jon, at DB Rods. The ridetech coilovers use a fox shock and are single adjustable (at least the ones we use). I'm hoping we can make a bolt in kit for the duramax trucks but I think we are going to have to build lower control arms for the kit. We can also get up to a 1200lb 10" spring if I remember right, so that's a major plus because for Jon to make a kit It needs to be daily driveable. I can get more info on the 1/2 ton kit if y'all want but DBRods is not a sponsor and I don't want to step on any toes.
 

jmaz268

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May 20, 2010
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Just saw this, I have not been on in awhile but was on here researching front coilover setups for my duramax, planing on doing the swap next month.

Those are ridetech coilovers, and they are a direct bolt in for the 1/2 ton 2wd trucks. You can only get this kit through my friend, Jon, at DB Rods. The ridetech coilovers use a fox shock and are single adjustable (at least the ones we use). I'm hoping we can make a bolt in kit for the duramax trucks but I think we are going to have to build lower control arms for the kit. We can also get up to a 1200lb 10" spring if I remember right, so that's a major plus because for Jon to make a kit It needs to be daily driveable. I can get more info on the 1/2 ton kit if y'all want but DBRods is not a sponsor and I don't want to step on any toes.

seeing as its kinda specialty niche for only a few people. I would be interested in finding out more info for sure.

Def be interested in the springs if you can get them, if they are cheaper than $950 for 2 of em lol.

Glad this has turned into a discussion/tech thread that many have contributed to.:thumb:
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,670
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Phoenix Az
Just saw this, I have not been on in awhile but was on here researching front coilover setups for my duramax, planing on doing the swap next month.

Those are ridetech coilovers, and they are a direct bolt in for the 1/2 ton 2wd trucks. You can only get this kit through my friend, Jon, at DB Rods. The ridetech coilovers use a fox shock and are single adjustable (at least the ones we use). I'm hoping we can make a bolt in kit for the duramax trucks but I think we are going to have to build lower control arms for the kit. We can also get up to a 1200lb 10" spring if I remember right, so that's a major plus because for Jon to make a kit It needs to be daily driveable. I can get more info on the 1/2 ton kit if y'all want but DBRods is not a sponsor and I don't want to step on any toes.

i need that spring in a 16" long 3.0 ID please!!!!!!!! :D
 

408.Luke

Joined the DARKSIDE
Sep 19, 2009
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Here is the product thread on LS1truck.com, he has a kit for almost all year 1/2 ton 2wd trucks, all 4x4 stuff is custom like my SS Silvy (although its no longer awd). This has to do partly with if you are lowered alot you need a shorter LCA or you will have way to much camber and also to do with clearing the CV axle. I also dropped over 50lbs going to tubular LCA's, but looking back i wish i had gone with ridetech coilovers (I have strange) they ride much better and is pretty much all Jon uses now unless the customer doesn't want to pay the ~$300/coilover price tag (thats just a coilover not a kit)

http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/performance-modifications/42286-coilovers-nbs-silverados.html

i need that spring in a 16" long 3.0 ID please!!!!!!!! :D

I can check but i think i can only get 2.5" and max of 12" springs

Pics of my front Coilover setup that Jon built

IMG_3235.jpg


Old plate style before we found out camber was bad
IMG_3233.jpg


IMG_3236.jpg


New tubular control arm compared to stock control arm w/ plate
IMG_3460.jpg


IMG_3463.jpg


My ride hight
IMG_0374.jpg


Bolt in kit ride hight (achived with 2" drop spindles mcgaughys preferred)
IMG_0071.jpg


How they bolt underneath
IMG_0078_zps00568d46.jpg