Thats all valving issues. The bars really have nothing to do with it. Have you actually measured your travel or cycled the suspension to see where your limits are?
Thats all valving issues. The bars really have nothing to do with it. Have you actually measured your travel or cycled the suspension to see where your limits are?
I agree, anything can happen, but I would trust it just as much as I would the factory arm. It has about a 1/4" steel plate under the shock mount that provides a lot of reinforcement. I know they're holding up fine on the shop race truck. Oh yeah, the springs are Hyperco 10" 900 lb springs. I looked on their site, but I couldn't find any info.Yes i understand that if it can hold a torsion bar, it SHOULD hold a coilover...
I cant say i ever have. Any pics?
I agree, anything can happen, but I would trust it just as much as I would the factory arm. It has about a 1/4" steel plate under the shock mount that provides a lot of reinforcement. I know they're holding up fine on the shop race truck. Oh yeah, the springs are Hyperco 10" 900 lb springs. I looked on their site, but I couldn't find any info.
So that's the issue. Better shock valving vs. coilover for better ride quality. Coilover has more advantage the way I see it. I'm not quite pressed that better shock valving would help a ton to those who ride hard on the dirt but don't want to spend a ton for long travel setup. Unless you can prove me wrong, I only believe what I see.
If anyone is looking for springs I have an excellent connection for H&R springs.....good friend of mine works for turner motorsports (BMW guys) I told him I need some springs for my coilover setup cause I know they deal with eibach. "Guy I'll get ya some h&r's, eibachs are for civics" hahaha
I agree, anything can happen, but I would trust it just as much as I would the factory arm. It has about a 1/4" steel plate under the shock mount that provides a lot of reinforcement. I know they're holding up fine on the shop race truck. Oh yeah, the springs are Hyperco 10" 900 lb springs. I looked on their site, but I couldn't find any info.
Pretty sure I have some on my laptop, I'll check tomorrow.
While you guys are trying to decide which springs to buy, keep in mind what material they are made of and the treating process they receive... it makes a big difference in durability and ride quality. Just because brand xyz has a 10" 1200lb spring doesn't mean its the best choice. I ended up having custom springs made in Sweden for my 95 Saab turbo when I was building it years ago because people were having issues with sagging, breaking, and bad ride quality with eibachs, h&r, koni, and even some of the specialized springs coming from European tuner companies at the time. I'm fortunate to have a local spring company that will wind coils in house...so that tells me that there's plenty more out there like them. I would ask them what they think prior to purchasing 1000 dollar springs
James do you mean 2.5" I.d....will 3" ones even fit without hitting uca?
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nope, 3.0. i will be running a 2.5" shock on my truck. it should clear my fabtech UCA but if it dont, ill build new ones. My hold up is the spring. you can not get anything heavy enough for a 2.5" shock and i will fade a 2.0 shock off road pretty fast. in all honesty, a 2.5" is too small for the weight but 3.0" and bigger shocks are fricken expensive and big spring rates are really hard to come by in those.
Yeah I agree.....you could always build a lca and mount 2 2.0 shocks
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lol yeah i think not.
Tom, the shock or coilover does not need to go to the bottom A-arm. It can go on top of the upper A-arm, and to a hoop that follows the inside wheel well and attatches to the frame. There are holes in the frame forward and rear of the A-arm that can be used, then triangulate a support bar from the middle of the hoop, to the stock shock mount on the frame.
I think he means like this
Sorry about the other "address" this was my old LLY