Chevy1925 (James) Truck/motor build

Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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in other news, we've been short handed at work so hours have been long and i keep opening the garage hoping someone has magically appeared in there to fix my truck..... it aint happened yet.

I did order up some heli-coil's and key-locking threaded inserts for the bellhousing/converter. im thinking i may make a real quick jig to hold the drill bit straight on the converter so i can drill it and then use a shorter jig to tap straight. i dont know if there is enough meat on the converter or bellhousing for the key-locking inserts but thats what im aiming to use, otherwise the heli-coils and a little JB weld on the outside thread edges will be used. Ive done the helicoil deal in the past with my samurai stuff to strengthen the head stud threads and exhaust manifold studs. Didnt know about the key locking stuff then which is way cooler :D
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Hambone said:
Could plug weld the hole and drill/tap?
It’s a PITA but atleast it will be almost 100%
Click to expand...

i wouldnt do that on the converter. too big of a chance of drilling off center since the weld wont be flat, dissimilar metals can push the bit around and grinding it flat leaves a chance for hitting the mating surface. id rather send the converter out at that point but the wait would suuuuuuuck. i told the wife we ARE going up north labor day weekend so this truck must be done by end of the month so i can break the engine in. shits gunna happen!!
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Well, back tracked pulling the engine back out, drilled/tapped/put key-locking inserts in. Those things are trick, I’ll be ordering more of them.

Bellhousing was easy. Seems only two spots use timesert deal while the rest is just reg helicoil. All the ones that pulled out were helicoil.

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Then the converter. And as it has been going for me lately, that one fought me. Got it drilled out nicely and the tap made it two turns and SNAP. My luck on the damn thing. Had plenty of oil on it, only turn 1/4 turn a time and back back out while not applying a bunch of torque. Soooo off to ace hardware and surprisingly they a 14x1.5mm tap. Picked up a converter bolt as well.

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In and straight. Bolt sits nice and square in there.

Dropped it back in and everything tighten down nicely. Finally.... so then started putting her back together. Next weekend I wanna get it enough to start and run to make sure it works
 
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04chase

Member
Mar 28, 2008
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never used those type of inserts. how do they lock once seated? Will those inserts hold up? i guess only way to know for sure.
 
Burn Down

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
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48
Boise Idaho
04chase said:
never used those type of inserts. how do they lock once seated? Will those inserts hold up? i guess only way to know for sure.
Click to expand...

Keensert is the name I believe, Caterpillar has large and small kits. I’ve used ones to repair 1.25” bolt holes before. Drill and tap then use the driver tool to lock the 4 stakes down.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Phoenix Az
04chase said:
never used those type of inserts. how do they lock once seated? Will those inserts hold up? i guess only way to know for sure.
Click to expand...



They will hold up waaaaaay better than the heli-coils. The fact is one solid piece instead of the coil will help big time on distributing load, plus the fact the hole is much larger for the insert so more surface area to grab.

Next time the trans comes out, I’m changing all the heli-coil holes out to these while I’m at mikes
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Phoenix Az
Mike L. said:
James
get me the part # of those bellhousing certs kits.
Click to expand...

93715A440 = Stainless inserts and install tool

90245A166 = Black phosphate and install tool

93715A625 = Stainless inserts by themselves

90245A175 = Black phosphate inserts by themselves.

26015A253 = 14x1.5mm bottoming tap (use for the blind holes)

8870A45 = 31/64" drill bit.

use the stainless inserts. i will be buying those since these worked so well. bought the cheapest ones to test first. the 31/64" worked the best in the bellhousing for setting threads with the tap. it drills EXTREMELY easy and cuts threads very easy as well. i used an extractor to pull the old heli-coils out before drilling. if for some reason the insert dies or the tap goes awire, they make a "thick" version of the insert which goes to a 16mm tap so it can be drilled and a new one put in (still lots of meat left on the bellhousing for it). Or if its just the insert that died, you can do like the video shows and possibly just thread a new insert in.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,661
5,808
113
Phoenix Az
Burn Down said:
Keensert is the name I believe, Caterpillar has large and small kits. I’ve used ones to repair 1.25” bolt holes before. Drill and tap then use the driver tool to lock the 4 stakes down.
Click to expand...

PureHybrid said:
The locking inserts are the only thing the machine shop at work will use during a repair.
Click to expand...

i actually found them by searching on here for "stripped bellhousing bolt hole" and Albert had posted about the keenserts. Then someone posted that mcmastercarr calls them key-locking threaded insert.

they are trick little deals! not the cheapest but pulling your damn engine or trans again to fix a pulled thread makes these well worth it :roflmao:
 
SoCalMike

SoCalMike

Member
Dec 12, 2010
758
16
18
SoCal
Looks good James. Seeing your coil overs makes me wish I went with bds coil over 4.5 inch lift instead of cognito. I just didn't like the 4k+ price tag to go with it. Lol
 
M.A.M.

M.A.M.

Member
Jan 9, 2016
429
7
18
Ohio
Love that feeling when she starts to get a little fuel and starts sputtering! Sounds good!


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