Calling out sillyboyrs4

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Blueox03

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Aug 12, 2006
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Jackson County, MS
You guys are confused. First of all the linkage goes on the ends and they do move plenty. Second, the rods are made of 304SS, so their is no need for PC or EA.
If you use the 26" rod like I did, you must de-burr it after the cuts are made or they will hang up. blow them out with a blow gun too...
 

MMLMM

Tunergeek
Mar 2, 2008
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Reno, NV
www.dyncal.com
You guys are confused. First of all the linkage goes on the ends and they do move plenty. Second, the rods are made of 304SS, so their is no need for PC or EA.
If you use the 26" rod like I did, you must de-burr it after the cuts are made or they will hang up. blow them out with a blow gun too...

Hmmmmm. I didnt deburr, maybe that why the ends dont move much. I'll try that. What did you do for the connection on the left side end piece where it goes into the bottom of the right side?
 

Subman

Old Geezer
Jun 27, 2008
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Madras, OR, Pahrump NV
The handling problem is caused by softer tires in the rear than the front. Soft bias-ply tires out back with stiff tires up front makes the rear try to steer for you. To get a feel for it, drop your stock rears to 20psi and put the front at 80PSI and drive around. Then put the fronts at 20, and rears at 80.

This has been a big problem with late model car drag racers, and is probably the number one reason folk go into the wall, closely followed by stabbing the brakes when the rear gets sideways.

Even if you CAN keep it straight enough, if you must steer quickly or brake going down the track, you're going to loop it. A piece of debris, some oil, or the other car coming across is going to leave you no options. You must just "drive through" and not react.

Slicks (cheater) on all four will work, we really can't put "skinnies" on our trucks due to weight, or at least dropping the front tires down low will help. Ballast won't help, since when it does come around, the ballast adds inertia to the spin.

Had slicks on all 4, decided to sell them, walls are hard.:eek:
 

Blueox03

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Use a banana to stick it on there. You need an old one with spots, you know one that's damn near rotten and the peel is so week it comes off in pieces. It will be nice and gooey when the peel is off. spread it thin on the outside of the two inner plates. The banana goo will hold the plates during assembly, but will easily rinse out when you flush it unlike Vaseline or grease. That's one of the slickest tricks to make the mods easier....
 

MMLMM

Tunergeek
Mar 2, 2008
4,086
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Reno, NV
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I used a dual linkage with an offset pivot and slide connector...

Cool, I thought the slide connector was real hard to get? Can you still order them or are they discontinued?

That's allot of unnecessary work to me, plus it leaves you with an inconsistent surface that is weaker than OEM...

I figured just a little machining wont hurt, plus I sleeved the rod on the inside.
 

Blueox03

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Aug 12, 2006
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Jackson County, MS
Cool, I thought the slide connector was real hard to get? Can you still order them or are they discontinued?



I figured just a little machining wont hurt, plus I sleeved the rod on the inside.

I made my slides from channel, I drill the pivot hole in the ends and cut a slot in the other.


Sleeving the rods will do much more harm than good. It will impede flow at all the joints and cause them to overheat and damage the bushings. The power coat it too weak for the surface, you need bare steel. you need to build yours right or it WILL fail quickly if not immediately...
 
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