LMM: Built Motor
- Thread starter jckleewein
- Start date
Yeah, I want to use better head studs. I know there are a lot of people that haven't had any issues with regular ARP studs, but if something bad is going to happen it will happen to me. I am also going to have the block decked. It's probally not necessary, but I can't have my truck down later on for something that I should have done from the get go.
:rofl: I had her out there helping me last night, but she is to tiny to get enough power to hold the flywheel still.
I like tearing stuff apart by myself. It's the accomplishment feeling.
No this damn bolt is tight. I have a friend that I am going to introduce to the bolt tonight. It's called a torch.
No torch
I just went through this with mine, Broke a 1/2 breaker bar and a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer from the impact If you can get the socket in a 3/4 drive and a stout 3/4 impact, it will come off. You could also try the breaker bar method again but smack the head of the bolt a few good times...
No torch
Just my .02 on the subject......when I replaced my water pump I bought a 3/4" breaker bar at Habor Freight. Then slide a 60" piece of rigid conduit over the breaker bar......bolt came loose no problem.
I had a 4' piece of metal tubing on a 1' breaker bar standing on it and bouncing up and down and could not break that dam bolt loose
The first time I took it off 6 months ago, it came off no problem with a 1/2" impact, but apperantly I got a little carried away with the Red Loctite when I re-installed it
I have NO problem, I said screw it and brought it to the machine shop
It actually came right off while I was there with a 3/4 - 3/4 Impact.. I could have got it off, Had I possessed a 3/4 socket to go with my 3/4 impact It just sheard my 3/4 to 1/2 reducer
That bolt is now replaced by Gm its no longer a tq to yield bolt.The LB7 motor were always just a tq and thats it the later lly and LBZ's were tqed then angular tqed know they all use the same bolt. Alittle loctite is good just not red there blue is ok
Thanks for the offer. I am just going to run the motor how it sits. I was mostly concerned with the head studs, but I am willing to take the chance in order to save $1500 plus the machine work.
Does anybody have a PN for the seal that is in the timing cover and the seal that is in the flywheel housing?
My guess is its the front main weeping / leaking a bit .
Tom , the lb7 has a nipple on the bottom of the front cover / points out to the passenger side then turns up that the drain hooks up to, I dont see what your referring to ?
Ya , that's the "front main" you need a special tool to remove / install it so keep that in mind . Maybe some other guys have a way to do it with out the seal installer /remover , I used the GM tool .
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I got the seal out. Where is the best place to get the seal driver? Does the timing cover need to be in place first? Will the seal driver work for the seal on the flywheel housing?
Originally Posted by wdino73
You don't loctite that bolt it's a stretch fit bolt, you've got a big problem.
I have NO problem, I said screw it and brought it to the machine shop It actually came right off while I was there with a 3/4 - 3/4 Impact.. I could have got it off, Had I possessed a 3/4 socket to go with my 3/4 impact It just sheard my 3/4 to 1/2 reducer
I suggested that earlier in the thread, why ask us for help if u don't use it.???
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You don't loctite that bolt it's a stretch fit bolt, you've got a big problem.
I have NO problem, I said screw it and brought it to the machine shop It actually came right off while I was there with a 3/4 - 3/4 Impact.. I could have got it off, Had I possessed a 3/4 socket to go with my 3/4 impact It just sheard my 3/4 to 1/2 reducer
I suggested that earlier in the thread, why ask us for help if u don't use it.???
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