Build questons

adeso

wait, what?
May 30, 2011
1,569
0
36
Minot, ND
So I found myself in a somewhat unplanned build-nothing extreme just rods, head studs, valve springs, key the cam, damper, 60% overs. I'm taking it to a shop to have the machine work done, and while he has done a lot of engines, he has never done a dmax before. I found this great info in another post:
Key cam and crank
Bore the cylinders (if going to an oversized piston)
Torque plate hone (especially if using head studs)
Deck the block (just enough to make it flat and square with the mains)
Line hone the mains (required if you want to run main studs)
Completely clean and inspect the heads and valves (just to make sure everything is right before bolting them back on)
Balance the rotating assembly (there are guys who have gotten by without it, but it makes them idle so much smoother and isn't that expensive)
What else should I tell the shop? I'm planning on getting new rings, rod bolts, and flywheel bolts, what am I missing here? I'm going to run stock pistons b/c I’m out of money and time, I need this truck back soon.
 

blk smoke lb7

<-----Lots of green $
Nov 8, 2010
5,694
0
36
57
belvidere,ill
Sounds like a good recipe to me,id add a different fly wheel or atleast a better flex plate.Henry and Darryl are selling a new beefer flex plate for the stock flywheel.I went with the suncoast wheel before i know about the new flex
 

jmaz268

Lead from the Front
May 20, 2010
2,895
0
0
41
Springfield IL
Sounds like a good recipe to me,id add a different fly wheel or atleast a better flex plate.Henry and Darryl are selling a new beefer flex plate for the stock flywheel.I went with the suncoast wheel before i know about the new flex

Yep the BD one....I got that one coming.
 

ripmf666

Active member
Sep 20, 2006
15,123
14
38
47
Wentzville Mo
So I found myself in a somewhat unplanned build-nothing extreme just rods, head studs, valve springs, key the cam, damper, 60% overs. I'm taking it to a shop to have the machine work done, and while he has done a lot of engines, he has never done a dmax before. I found this great info in another post:
Key cam and crank
Bore the cylinders (if going to an oversized piston)
Torque plate hone (especially if using head studs)
Deck the block (just enough to make it flat and square with the mains)
Line hone the mains (required if you want to run main studs)
Completely clean and inspect the heads and valves (just to make sure everything is right before bolting them back on)
Balance the rotating assembly (there are guys who have gotten by without it, but it makes them idle so much smoother and isn't that expensive)
What else should I tell the shop? I'm planning on getting new rings, rod bolts, and flywheel bolts, what am I missing here? I'm going to run stock pistons b/c I’m out of money and time, I need this truck back soon.


Are you doing rods ? Lost since you said rod bolts.
 

adeso

wait, what?
May 30, 2011
1,569
0
36
Minot, ND
yes, decided on carrillos. I'm going to wait on the flex plate, when I upgrade my CP3 Ill drop the trans and put on a good flex plate. I blew a HG and cracked an injector-but this little build is putting me into the red so I'm trying to just do stuff inside the engine and save on the bolt on stuff till I'm not so broke. I'm kind of on a time crunch too-so while I'm going to do stuff right I cant really have the truck down for a long time.
When I'm done its going to be an expensive toy-run down the track a few times a year, tow a boat every now and then, but not be beat on that much. (So a true waste of money for a toy....)
I'm dropping the engine off today, the guy is good just hasn’t done a dmax before-hope to have it back early next week and have the truck going again soon
 

adeso

wait, what?
May 30, 2011
1,569
0
36
Minot, ND
And what exactly does cutting the pistons give you? If I understand right it helps hold the piston together under high temps-If I keep my EGTs down with a low PW is this something I need to worry about? I looked around a little bit but couldn't find anything (but I bet there is a thread on it somewhere)
 

cafryer

New member
May 5, 2011
1,074
0
0
Utah
They just machine the lip on the piston. It makes it so the presure does not get traped under the lip so it wont crack as easy. Good investment.
 

S Phinney

Active member
Aug 15, 2008
4,008
18
28
Quncy, Fl
I can yell you that another 25 lbs of torque on the main studs will tighten up main clearance about 1.3 thousandths. So doing a line hone will make things right.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 

adeso

wait, what?
May 30, 2011
1,569
0
36
Minot, ND
I just put up what someone else said, I'm not going to bore the block or line bore the mains don’t know what I was thinking there. I am going to cut the pistons though
Thanks for the info guys
 

ecc_33

Junior Member
Aug 10, 2006
1,925
0
0
39
Amanda, Ohio
I am going to run stock main bolts but they still line bored the block to get better oil flow to the mains and give room for growth. If your going for head studs which i highly recommend. you should torque plate hone the main bore. You don't have to but going this far its not that expensive to do. Stock main bolts will be perfectly fine for what your doing.
 

TDFDiesel

I'm That Guy
Jan 6, 2011
386
0
16
Mesa, AZ
I just put up what someone else said, I'm not going to bore the block or line bore the mains don’t know what I was thinking there. I am going to cut the pistons though
Thanks for the info guys

How much extra would that machine work cost you?

What is the run out in the cylinders?

Are you just going to continue running your same pistons after getting them cut?
 

adeso

wait, what?
May 30, 2011
1,569
0
36
Minot, ND
That is interesting^
how well does coating a used piston work out? I'm going to use my old ones, I'm just wondering if its worth the extra money to coat them.