Im having some issues with a lock up box installation. I installed per instructions but when i turn the key to the run position the LED doesn't light up at all. I have power to the box itself through the A4 pin on the light blue bcm plug. I sent Ben a email but figured id ask here also. What should i be looking for that i might have messed up?
Bt Lock up box??
- Thread starter LbzDMax07
- Start date
you ever get it figured out? I had that problem on mine, double check the T tap to the brake and the wire to the throttle. I got sick of playing with the T taps and soldered everything solid.
:thumb: If the green light isn't coming on id wager the brake switch wire, that's where mine was at, it's a beotch getting that wire.
I ended up having to solder the brake switch wire, never could get a good enough connection with the crimp style connectors that came with the controller.
I strip the wire in between where the crimp goes, press the crimp in place and heat a crimp post while holding the solder wire on the stripped part of the service wire until the solder melts, then secure the crimp. This takes a bit more time but creates a very positive connection :thumb:
I wouldn't rely on a solder connection alone, even if heat shrinked. The way I do it like mentioned in my last post is a pain but it's a lifetime connection that Ive never seen fail. I started doing it that way after having crimp connections get loose and short/fail in the past.
Grab your T-tap and use it to mark the wire, pinch it down but don't totally crimp it. Then between the marks that you made into the wire with the posts of the T-tap, take a utility blade (bare in just your fingers) and gently cut/scrape enough of the wire cover to expose the wire core. Use a pair of wire strippers in the proper hole size to cut the sheathing with out damaging/cutting the wire and then remove the 1/2" section of sheathing. Now place the crimp on by pressing the exposed wire into the crimp posts with something that won't damage the wire. Then heat the top of a post with a soldering iron while holding solder wire to the exposed wiring until it melts the solder onto the wire. Then clasp the crimp and you're done with that connection
Grab your T-tap and use it to mark the wire, pinch it down but don't totally crimp it. Then between the marks that you made into the wire with the posts of the T-tap, take a utility blade (bare in just your fingers) and gently cut/scrape enough of the wire cover to expose the wire core. Use a pair of wire strippers in the proper hole size to cut the sheathing with out damaging/cutting the wire and then remove the 1/2" section of sheathing. Now place the crimp on by pressing the exposed wire into the crimp posts with something that won't damage the wire. Then heat the top of a post with a soldering iron while holding solder wire to the exposed wiring until it melts the solder onto the wire. Then clasp the crimp and you're done with that connection
Yes, that'll work just fine. Tape it up afterwards and you'll be fine. Jason's a nut:hug:, wiring isn't rocket science.
I checked all of it again. Purple wire has 12v until brake is pushed. I used multimeter to check the ground, hot and purple wire using the ground wire at the plug so I know its good. Still no green light though. Went for a ride pushed the auto button, blue LED came on when I hit the button but went off right away
Something isn't right. The green light should be on all the time and the blue light should be on when the box is forcing lock up, iirc. Maybe the green light is just bad. Go back out on a drive, hit the auto button and keep the remote in sight. Find a safe place and give a few WOT pedal stabs to the accelerator pedal, if the blue light comes on during those runs it's indicating that it's forcing lock up. Hopefully Ben will get back to you shortly, but it seems like you've wired everything properly.
The led should only be green in forced lock up mode. It shouldn't be on at all if you haven't applied any of the buttons.