What years are the same? When did they change? Because to me it sounds like no year is more common then another.
the cranks may be different, but who made the cranks? also, were the lb7/lbz cranks actually different in the area that breaks?What years are the same? When did they change? Because to me it sounds like no year is more common then another.
this is possible. my main focus was the pitting. you can also see that little spot of blue, too. i am ASSuming i quickly checked that bearing and didnt see anything out of the ordinary, but i bet there was some funkyness going on at its edges.What are the chances the damage was done after the crank broke? If you look close it looks like the worn area is mostly on one side of the bearing surface.
do all those cummins engines out there have trouble with their oil breaking their cranks under heavy abuse? do they have the same problems? 42 broken duramax cranks on this site alone is huge, imo.
not 100% sure of what the previous owners did with my truck before she let go, just going off of what they told me. it was a repo truck with a self-loading wheel hauler bed. i would tend to believe they beat on it pretty good, but it was unmodded. the extent of hauling was pulling cars around, so figure around 3k lbs or so on the usual haul, maybe 7-8k if it hauled the occasional diesel dually, and the other half of those miles were empty with no car. it operated in a pretty flat area, no mountains or big hills. not a real big load on it, i wouldnt think.I've seen spun mains on Cummins from over temped oil (what I use to build in the 90s). I've also seen it on 7.3 Powerstrokes, 6.9 & 7.3 (pre-Powerstroke), some Volvo and Renault diesels as well. These are not those diesels though. Bulletproof Diesel has a cooler out for the Powerstrokes. The bottom of these motors are only cooled with the factory heat exchanger. There is no extra way to cool the internals or lower section. What was your oil temps before it happened or even your oil pressure?
The factory doesn't install oil temp gauges or EGT gauges. How many trucks on this site has burned holes in the pistons or melted them even with a EGT gauge to watch? Some had a stuck injector but not all. Doesn't mean it's a problem with the way the motor was designed (some were cheaper material but were certainly working out of there design parameters). But that has nothing to do with the cranks spinning bearings (which has been common as well) or with broke cranks. I'm just taking a logical approach to the problem to help resolve it. Doesn't mean it's the total reason for all of them. I think the main gauges we need to focus on is a EGT gauge and an oil temp gauge. The fun gauge (boost) can fill in. I'm just taking a logical shot in the dark at this problem just like the rest of us.
Far above normal or acceptable heat would make the cap distort.
Add a broken internally balanced LB7 crank to the list, pulling it apart tomorrow. Second crank this truck has broke at the 850hp range.
Truck does have a procharger though, so thats the likely cause, but sounds like the owner doesnt want to give up just yet. One more idea to try out. Thankfully the motor has a custom Extreme Engine Development crank support on it so major damage was avoided.
Looks like a flexing issue (not slowly cracked through over time but a sudden break from fatigue). You said there was black on the casting. I can see it on the crank journal in the pic. This would be from a degradation and burning of some sort. The thing about a casting flaw would be that this would be far more common than it is (production issue). Hard to say what made it give up the ghost. When I spun my #2 bearing, the crank flexed and warped .005 out of tolerance but hadn't cracked or broke. Would it have if I had go much further? I'm quite sure.
Oh, I also agree with not being able to see a flaw or inclusion. Sometimes you need to look under a microscope to see what is happening as well...
in your opinion, how much oil would a stock duramax with no mods or tune need to stay properly cooled?I have NO doubts the oil is breaking down. In my opinion we don't have enough total volume of oil circulating and what's in there does not properly get cooled (inadequate).
in your opinion, how much oil would a stock duramax with no mods or tune need to stay properly cooled?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2425542
this guy did an oil analysis on his '07 duramax after nearly 9k miles pulling a 15k lb trailer in the 115 degree arizona heat and it came out great.
if that didnt kill the oil, what would?